Irwin 38 MKII Center Cockpit 1990 - SailNet Community
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post #1 of 7 Old 12-19-2009 Thread Starter
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Irwin 38 MKII Center Cockpit 1990

So I have bought this much neglected but still very worthwhile sailboat.

Two immediate projects need others experience and guidance.

#1 Deck Recore

The aft deck has a lot of soft stuff and needs to be recored from the taff rail to the cockpit coaming. Before cutting any holes can anyone tell me if they know what the core is (was!) made of.

Next part is how to replace the core. I am attacking this from below, so as to preserve the integrity of the deck. Would a good dense foam product provide the strength necessary, or should the core be replaced with wood or similar material.

#2 Traveller

I intend to refit the boat for single handing capability, so am interested in a traveller. Ideally, to keep the aft end of cockpit clear I would like to mount a bridge traveller just foreward of the cokpit coaming so as not to interfere with the dodger. All comments, pros and cons would be appreciated, especially where experience has been gained.

Looking forward to hearing all input.

There will be lots more questions so please keep looking

Rebel Lady on the Chesapeake

Last edited by boatseeker; 12-20-2009 at 12:09 PM. Reason: grammatical error
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post #2 of 7 Old 08-18-2012
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Re: Irwin 38 MKII Center Cockpit 1990

I had an Irwin 38 cc from 1985 to 2007. Loved it wonderful cruiser. As for the traveler we put just aft of the cockpit. This kept it out of the way and left the main easily handled by the helmsman.
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post #3 of 7 Old 09-11-2012
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Re: Irwin 38 MKII Center Cockpit 1990

Hey John,

I just bought a 1987 Irwin 38; sits in Herring Harbour South right now and will be home on the Magothy this coming spring.

I hear ya on the traveler, mine needs some revision on location and how it works. But seriously - boom end traveler's are far better, and putting it on the bridge deck will seriously compromise the ability of the traveler to control the sail - it's about arc and how much travel you can get from the traveler.
Here's my setup currently (as bought):

For those non-Irwin folks reading - and me, I'm assuming you mean to put the traveler up on the forward coaming (next to my coffee cup in the photo).
That also means your mainsheet would be mid-boom - and all that tangle and mess of lines has to come back to the helm.

My revisions will be to replace the pin stop car with a 3:1 sheeted arrangement - then have the control lines go off to either side to a turning block with a cam cleat - simple and efficient way to get the lines into the cockpit where they can be adjusted with one hand.
I fully believe that the traveler should only be centered when motoring, I use the heck out of it to balance helm and heel control.

I'll be watching for your posts on the deck core - PM if you are close by to Pasadena, Love to have a look.

Lessons learned are opportunities earned.
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post #4 of 7 Old 09-17-2012
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Re: Irwin 38 MKII Center Cockpit 1990

Sorry I don't have a better picture, but as you can see the travler is mounted on a teak block just aft af the cockpit. This allows full movement of the travler and controll of the mainsail from the end of the boom. We often would use the rear of the cockpit for exiting and entering from the aft deck the travler easily moves the mail sheet out of the way. when all battened down only the main sheet tail sneeks into the cockpit under the curtian.
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post #5 of 7 Old 09-17-2012
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Re: Irwin 38 MKII Center Cockpit 1990

Irwin 38 MKII Center Cockpit 1990-irwin-travler.jpg
Sorry I didn't get the jpeg attached.
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post #6 of 7 Old 11-17-2012
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Re: Irwin 38 MKII Center Cockpit 1990

congrats John. you have bought a hell of a boat for a 38' footer and probably at a great price!

Just something to consider..... I read a post where someone mounted the traveller on the rear side of the coaming.
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post #7 of 7 Old 12-24-2014
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Re: Irwin 38 MKII Center Cockpit 1990

its best to re core from the top The core is plywood. The top skin is cut off. The blade of the saw is set just to cut thru the top fiberglass then lifted off. The core is then removed and and the lower part is left to dry. A new core is then inserted and bedded with epoxy. The top skin is then epoxy to the core and then weighted, once all is cured the seam is ground back all the way around the repaired area to a tapper and glass is laid into the tapper. Make sure the tapper goes back enough on both sides of the repair. Once that is done the gel coat is then applied. I have the same boat!
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