I suppose i will have to see.
The thing is that in the cockpit, on the side seats i was working on closing up the holes from an old throttle assembly and there is teak there on those seats. Well when i looked below the compartment, there were 3 about 2 Intch holes in the fiberglass just as if someone ripped off something through the surface.
The teak was installed on top of that.
So my theory is that if someone was bored enough to not even bother closing up those holes, then what i can expect from the rest of the work.
I come to the boat every morning and do some work on it, and under the rudder assembly those compartments have always some water just because there is humidity on the seats which i suppose leaks through the teak to the inside.
Anyways, will have to see what to do. I am all for removing this teak and honestly removing or fixing the core isn't all that difficult for me. The boat is relatively small and i don't think the entire core is gone.
Will be pondering about this while i replace bulkheads and making cabinets in the interior.
The pics of your teak deck don't 'look' all that bad
, just typical of a deck that hasn't had much maintenance over the past few years but a lot of 'surface abuse'. If an assay of the coring proves that the deck for the most part is not wet, then a simple 're-bunging', seam recaulking, and a light sanding is all thats needed to make it through another 6-7 years ... longer if you use a 'sealer' to prevent 'UV burn
' of the bare teak. Re-caulking is easy if you have a fein tool with a caulked seam tool .... looks like the letter 'j'; plus, having a small 'laminate trimmer' with a made-up 'jig' to hold the trimmer in the groove as you 're-rout' it back to proper depth and then add a 'bond breaker' (1/4" mylar tape) in the bottom of the groove.
There is absolutely nothing available on the planet that provides better footing on a wet & pitching deck than teak decking.
FWIW - the probable 'best' caulk available these days is TDS single part, 'oxime' cure caulk ... no messy filling of caulking gun 'sausages'; downside is that it only has a shelf life of about 12 months when 'unused'. The grooves and ends of the strakes HAVE to be totally dry for this stuff to 'stick well'.
Semco is one of the best 'sealers' available ... slosh on every 6 months, if you're not deep ocean sailing where constant 'solid' green water (at about 8 pH / relatively high caustic
content) coming 'down hard' onto the deck will strip Semco. A mixture of 1/3rd each of Semco, Teak Wonder, and Thompson's (carmel) Waterseal is even longer lasting @ 1-2 years; but can be, a royal pain to remove if it goes 'blotchy'.
If you do restore, consider to get yourself a set of 3/8" combination "Counterbore + countersinks" for reboring the bung holes - two steps in one when you use a portable drill press, .... and with a 3/8" 'forstner' bit which 'cuts and grinds' instead of 'rips and splits' the holes. Just use epoxy on those bung holes already 'split'.
For the easiest and if you don't have a lot of wet coring spots, consider to removethe teak and all those (2-3000?) damn screws, lightly re-'mill' the teak and laminate the teak to the deck with epoxy, then simply re-bung using epoxy to 'seal' the bungs in place.