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post #11 of 37 Old 02-04-2007
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Start out solo in the right conditions. Light winds check tide if applicable. Practice refine. Practice reefing dockside so you'll no what to do before it starts to blow. It's not rocked science practice that's all and enjoy. My biggest advice when gybing is first head off the wind ease the jib sheet when your set bring in the main sheet traveler to center postion and tighten the main sheet accordingly, meaning the stronger the wind the tighter the sheet. Why, so when you gybe the distance the boom moves is minimized and in stonger wind that it very important you don't what to loose any hardware. Take one wrap with the lazy jib sheet so your ready. Now gybe, release the loaded jib sheet when it begins to luff, I like to do this all at a nice slow pace as compaired when tacking. The main thing now is not to headback up in the wind to far untill your in controll of the boat. It will want to head up naturally on it's own especially in stonger winds, so before that happens tighten the jib sheet accordingly and add one or two wraps around the winch. Now you can start to head up into the wind in a controlled manner and ajust the main. Best to practice gybing in light air it's basically the same in heavier air with more load so watch your fingers and the boat will really want to round up quicker so be ready for it. If it's really blowing tacking is safer. Also watch boat's around you, you can learn alot buy watching others. Good and bad. PEACE happy sailing.
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Last edited by tonic; 02-04-2007 at 11:24 PM.
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post #12 of 37 Old 12-18-2017
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Re: Question about singlehanding

You get your control line all to the cockpit; get your lines ergonomically situated for your body:
sit there an think about yourself hauling various lines from the helming position, what fits YOUR body & range of motion.
so you can comfortably and safely control the boat's sailing controls all right from the cockpit area.
run the mainsheet, the boom vang, and the topping lift all centrally, on the boom if posible,
Then you can hold/control the tiller & mainsheet in your back hand
You have your for'd hand to work the jib sheets, and also the vang, the out haul, or topping lift to depower when a gust hits,
and they are also there just at the ready to power up in an instant,all from right where you are helming solo.

When you are comfortable controlling your baby solo, you can invite folks an let 'em feel like they are helpin but you are confidently in control !
a song I remember once said, "the canvas can do miracles" this is SO true, & so much more true when you can do all the controls by yourself confidently and comfortably.
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post #13 of 37 Old 12-18-2017
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Re: Question about singlehanding

OK, so LOOK; there is a fellow, name of Ken $tingy Billings, who has designed a very inexpensive self tending jib system DIY that anyone can set up by themselves, look to $tingySailor.com under projects, , he has MORE, a whole bunch of really cool ideas DIY and he sells a ebook of all his plans for a paltry 20 bucks or so. Buy yourselves one , you wont regret it, this guy has done his homework.
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post #14 of 37 Old 12-29-2017
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Re: Question about singlehanding

Just a matter of knowing what things need to get done, and following through on things one step at a time. I tend usually have a bungee-type self steering device on the tiller which helps me keep things going straight, and just release the leeward jib sheet from the cleat and hold it in my hand, then push the tiller over. Once the jib gets back winded, I release that sheet and grab the other one (it isn't as hard as you think) and trim it. With the bungee holding the tiller where I put it, it really isn't a hard thing to do once you get used to it. And notice that I don't usually need to worry about the main sheet at all.

Obviously practice makes perfect, and trust me, if I can do it, anybody can do it.

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post #15 of 37 Old 12-30-2017
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Re: Question about singlehanding

I have two bungies that look like o- rings attached to my tiller it is just enough tension to keep the tiller straight but slack enough so i dont need to remove it to tack.
wind windward sheet around winch.
uncleat lee sheet prepare to take it off winch.
straddle tiller and start tack.
control sheet one as i tack and pull in the other as the boom moves past center i shift balance.
when tack complete i release tiller and trim for new tack.
clean up ropes cleat if necessary. check course and re-trim if needed.
I have a hank on foresail so the bungies are nice when i have to lower/change my foresail or other times when i leave the cockpit.
I have an old auto pilot but i only use it when travailing longer distance.
to reef the main I heave-too then reef as i have to go to the mast to hook the Cunningham into the reef cringle.
rolling furling and single line reefing and lazyjacks would be nice but this works.
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post #16 of 37 Old 12-30-2017
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Re: Question about singlehanding

Stand up, carefully out of the way of the boom, tiller between your legs practice short tacks with a small head-sail, then move up to a big one in lighter winds of course. Gybes are the same as tacks just sheet the main in tight on Gybes then let it out. Just think like its the same as having people on board without them being in the way
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post #17 of 37 Old 12-30-2017
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Re: Question about singlehanding

Quote:
Originally Posted by albrazzi View Post
Stand up, carefully out of the way of the boom, tiller between your legs practice short tacks with a small head-sail, then move up to a big one in lighter winds of course. Gybes are the same as tacks just sheet the main in tight on Gybes then let it out. Just think like its the same as having people on board without them being in the way
great
LOL if feel like a clutz and more nervous when i have some one on board. I also started with a small head sail slow but easy to handle. but i have found that with a bigger foresail "Not crazy big" the boat is more balanced. I am not a racer so comfort control is more important then a half a knot gain. IMO if i leave with a smaller foresail as mine is hank on and i find that it is too small i can change it. This is not the case if i pick too big of a foresail. Changing foresails can be tough just as it is harder to reef late. not impossible just a pain.
Break every thing down in steps and call them out like you have a crew.., and practice.. I am very new but this has help a lot. as you run lines back to the cockpit it can get a little crazy with a tangle of different lines. neatness counts.

Last edited by dmdelorme; 12-30-2017 at 12:14 PM. Reason: cant type
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post #18 of 37 Old 12-30-2017
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Re: Question about singlehanding

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Originally Posted by dmdelorme View Post
great
LOL if feel like a clutz and more nervous when i have some one on board. I also started with a small head sail slow but easy to handle. but i have found that with a bigger foresail "Not crazy big" the boat is more balanced. I am not a racer so comfort control is more important then a half a knot gain. IMO if i leave with a smaller foresail as mine is hank on and i find that it is too small i can change it. This is not the case if i pick too big of a foresail. Changing foresails can be tough just as it is harder to reef late. not impossible just a pain.
Break every thing down in steps and call them out like you have a crew.., and practice.. I am very new but this has help a lot. as you run lines back to the cockpit it can get a little crazy with a tangle of different lines. neatness counts.
Sounds like you have the right idea, just practice. As far as lines back to the cockpit, what are you doing? are they already there, are you lengthening? I would get to know the Boat as set up before changing things if that's what you're saying. On small Boats get in the practice of making the first part of the trip up wind, down wind is always easier and faster, especially if conditions change.
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post #19 of 37 Old 08-30-2018
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Re: Question about singlehanding

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Originally Posted by albrazzi View Post
Sounds like you have the right idea, just practice. As far as lines back to the cockpit, what are you doing? are they already there, are you lengthening? I would get to know the Boat as set up before changing things if that's what you're saying. On small Boats get in the practice of making the first part of the trip up wind, down wind is always easier and faster, especially if conditions change.
I added 2 winches to the cabin top and clutches and boom preventer attached to bow cleat i line to each side and when i gybe i use PST TSP i use the preventer and main sheet together to haul the main in then move track to middle switch preventers gybe then move track then use preventer and main sheet to position then pull in main sheet so my main is not rubbing on the shrouds.
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post #20 of 37 Old 09-09-2018
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Re: Question about singlehanding

if the lines dont run all the way back, is there a way to make them longer without having to buy a whole new longer line?
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