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post #21 of 37 Old 09-09-2018
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Re: Question about singlehanding

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if the lines dont run all the way back, is there a way to make them longer without having to buy a whole new longer line?
Not really. While you can splice new line to extend it, old line is very difficult to splice. The best you may be able to do is to repurpose line, using a long enough line from one place in some other location and then buy a longer line for the original located.

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post #22 of 37 Old 03-24-2019
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Re: Question about singlehanding

I'll be sailing a cutter and will be eliminating my staysail boom. Any cutter sailors who singlehand sail who can share their experiences with this cutter setup. Thanks
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post #23 of 37 Old 03-24-2019
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Re: Question about singlehanding

I don't single hand that much any more . I think having a auto pilot is really the key to the whole thing . On Westsails people do get rid of the staysail boom but you have to put T tracks on the house to give the staysail shape . Back to the single handing , many beers ago when we got our little cutter we did not understand how to reef it correctly . when the wind would build we would first haul down the Yankee and sail with Main and Staysail , that would create bad weather helm . For our boat the proper way to reef is to first reef the Main and if need be double reef it . Second would be reef the Staysail and a bit of the Yankee . Hope that helps . What boat do you have Ze'K ?
Edit : I see Cape Dory .

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post #24 of 37 Old 03-24-2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Markwesti View Post
I don't single hand that much any more . I think having a auto pilot is really the key to the whole thing . On Westsails people do get rid of the staysail boom but you have to put T tracks on the house to give the staysail shape . Back to the single handing , many beers ago when we got our little cutter we did not understand how to reef it correctly . when the wind would build we would first haul down the Yankee and sail with Main and Staysail , that would create bad weather helm . For our boat the proper way to reef is to first reef the Main and if need be double reef it . Second would be reef the Staysail and a bit of the Yankee . Hope that helps . What boat do you have Ze'K ?
Edit : I see Cape Dory .
Lol @ many beers ago. You're correct I picked up a CD30 cutter. Thank you for pointing the reefing steps I'll try that technique. I thought that I was going to reef the dory that way too. Bring Yankee down and roll with just a reef main and staysail.
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post #25 of 37 Old 03-25-2019
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Re: Question about singlehanding

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Originally Posted by Ze'K View Post
I'll be sailing a cutter and will be eliminating my staysail boom. Any cutter sailors who singlehand sail who can share their experiences with this cutter setup. Thanks
Tacking our Westsail with loose footed staysail was a piece of cake though the Aries normally steered the boat. Would set the Aries for the other tack, release the yankee when it began to luff and then the staysail, haul in the staysail's other sheet by hand and cleat it, haul in the yankee sheet and trim it on the winch if necessary, go back to the staysail and trim it. Usually didn't have to do much to trim the staysail as pulling the sheet tight by hand could feel the proper tension with the sail luffing as the bow passed through the wind. The vane would have the boat steering on the new tack and work was done. Wouldn't be much harder without self steering. Just keep the tiller between the legs and steer that way while you are working the sail.

Running the staysail loose footed is way way better than having it on a club. Sail sets better on all points of sail by simply adjusting the sheet. With the boom, it would kite putting a big belly in the sail as soon as you cracked the sheet off. The only way to get a well trimmed sail was to vang the sail down which defeated the whole self tacking issue. Worst part was the boom was physically dangerous unless strapped down hard and I have the scar to prove it.

Very high aspect ratio rigs lend themselves much better to a self tending set up but still have issues with trim on some points of sail no matter how they are set up. For light air with a normal rig you need an overlapping to keep the boat moving optimally which negates self tending.
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post #26 of 37 Old 03-25-2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roverhi View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ze'K View Post
I'll be sailing a cutter and will be eliminating my staysail boom. Any cutter sailors who singlehand sail who can share their experiences with this cutter setup. Thanks
Tacking our Westsail with loose footed staysail was a piece of cake though the Aries normally steered the boat. Would set the Aries for the other tack, release the yankee when it began to luff and then the staysail, haul in the staysail's other sheet by hand and cleat it, haul in the yankee sheet and trim it on the winch if necessary, go back to the staysail and trim it. Usually didn't have to do much to trim the staysail as pulling the sheet tight by hand could feel the proper tension with the sail luffing as the bow passed through the wind. The vane would have the boat steering on the new tack and work was done. Wouldn't be much harder without self steering. Just keep the tiller between the legs and steer that way while you are working the sail.

Running the staysail loose footed is way way better than having it on a club. Sail sets better on all points of sail by simply adjusting the sheet. With the boom, it would kite putting a big belly in the sail as soon as you cracked the sheet off. The only way to get a well trimmed sail was to vang the sail down which defeated the whole self tacking issue. Worst part was the boom was physically dangerous unless strapped down hard and I have the scar to prove it.

Very high aspect ratio rigs lend themselves much better to a self tending set up but still have issues with trim on some points of sail no matter how they are set up. For light air with a normal rig you need an overlapping to keep the boat moving optimally which negates self tending.
I'm definitely taking notes. Thank you.
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post #27 of 37 Old 03-26-2019
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Re: Question about singlehanding

Have a hydrovane and an autopilot. Find on autopilot it’s easy to tack. Set up the traveler to midships. Set up the lazy sheet with two wraps but not in the self tailer. Hit the auto tack button and wait a second or two to throw off the working sheet. Then pull on the new workingsheet. Put a wrap then the self tailer and use the button for power to get the last little bit. Reposition the traveler.
Find it’s easiest when hard on the wind so go to that point of sail to start. After tacking go to desired course and trim.
When on the hydrovane it’s much harder to tack. Do the same thing as above but on occasion get caught in irons. The continuous loop that rotates the vane goes to the stern rail so it’s a bit of a struggle to get everything done in time. Find sometimes best to turn on the engine briefly after moving vane setting to more of a reach. Sort things out and then retrim to course. This means turning on a cold diesel, running it briefly, then turning it off. This is bad for the engine. Also my AP has a wireless remote. When I screw up it’s a help.
So don’t use the hydrovane when coastal just the AP. Had the same issues in prior boats with
Servo pendulums (Fleming, Monitor). Believe if you’re going to single an AP is a better choice to use then a vane. Think this is true regardless of size of the vessel or brand of vane.
Of course offshore a vane is a thing of beauty. No electrical draw. Spot on to awa. Noiseless.
Would mention if I need to gybe will do a chicken gybe. Turn the AP to standby. Put on a slight bit of wheel break. Have both sheets out of the self tailers (still with 3or 4 wraps) and in hand. Do the gybe while handling the sheets. Open the wheel brake and turn on the AP using wind angle. Usually set it to a reach. Sort myself out. Reset course and trim.
I don’t use this technique with the vane. Rather roll up the jib, chicken gybe, roll out the jib. Have the vane fixed amidships and reach back to play the wheel. It’s cumbersome even with another up to help let a lone when one up. Frequently if going down wind for awhile have no main. That’s easier. Have one sheet in the self tailer and push the button as needed as you ease the other while doing a standard gybe.
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post #28 of 37 Old 03-26-2019
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Re: Question about singlehanding

Reliable strong AP is mission critical to single or short hand. Driving for hrs on end... is usually boring unless in very spirited weather demanding you "steer" the waves. As OutB describes tacking... this is easy peasy... and unless you are constrained you're not short tacking... so it's little effort. I have to AP over steer the tack and then trim and steer as high as I feel works.

AP on a set course and when there are few corrections for yaw because of sea state should draw very little power. I can run instruments and AP on a sunny day if the AP is not doing a lot of "corrections" on a 110 watts of solar. Offshore I will run the diesel at least a few hrs a day to cool the refer (engine drive) and make hot water... and lift up the batteries.

pay attention... someone's life depends on it
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post #29 of 37 Old 03-26-2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by outbound View Post
Have a hydrovane and an autopilot. Find on autopilot it’s easy to tack. Set up the traveler to midships. Set up the lazy sheet with two wraps but not in the self tailer. Hit the auto tack button and wait a second or two to throw off the working sheet. Then pull on the new workingsheet. Put a wrap then the self tailer and use the button for power to get the last little bit. Reposition the traveler.
Find it’s easiest when hard on the wind so go to that point of sail to start. After tacking go to desired course and trim.
When on the hydrovane it’s much harder to tack. Do the same thing as above but on occasion get caught in irons. The continuous loop that rotates the vane goes to the stern rail so it’s a bit of a struggle to get everything done in time. Find sometimes best to turn on the engine briefly after moving vane setting to more of a reach. Sort things out and then retrim to course. This means turning on a cold diesel, running it briefly, then turning it off. This is bad for the engine. Also my AP has a wireless remote. When I screw up it’s a help.
So don’t use the hydrovane when coastal just the AP. Had the same issues in prior boats with
Servo pendulums (Fleming, Monitor). Believe if you’re going to single an AP is a better choice to use then a vane. Think this is true regardless of size of the vessel or brand of vane.
Of course offshore a vane is a thing of beauty. No electrical draw. Spot on to awa. Noiseless.
Would mention if I need to gybe will do a chicken gybe. Turn the AP to standby. Put on a slight bit of wheel break. Have both sheets out of the self tailers (still with 3or 4 wraps) and in hand. Do the gybe while handling the sheets. Open the wheel brake and turn on the AP using wind angle. Usually set it to a reach. Sort myself out. Reset course and trim.
I don’t use this technique with the vane. Rather roll up the jib, chicken gybe, roll out the jib. Have the vane fixed amidships and reach back to play the wheel. It’s cumbersome even with another up to help let a lone when one up. Frequently if going down wind for awhile have no main. That’s easier. Have one sheet in the self tailer and push the button as needed as you ease the other while doing a standard gybe.
I am going for a CPT autopliot, I have not read the review on auto tack but will research on that now. I will have to rehearse all this steps when we rig the boat next month.

Thank you appreciate the wisdom.
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post #30 of 37 Old 03-26-2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SanderO View Post
Reliable strong AP is mission critical to single or short hand. Driving for hrs on end... is usually boring unless in very spirited weather demanding you "steer" the waves. As OutB describes tacking... this is easy peasy... and unless you are constrained you're not short tacking... so it's little effort. I have to AP over steer the tack and then trim and steer as high as I feel works.

AP on a set course and when there are few corrections for yaw because of sea state should draw very little power. I can run instruments and AP on a sunny day if the AP is not doing a lot of "corrections" on a 110 watts of solar. Offshore I will run the diesel at least a few hrs a day to cool the refer (engine drive) and make hot water... and lift up the batteries.
The consensus is the AP is a must for a smooth and effective tack. At the same time for me the staysail should be self tacking without a club.
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