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Oday 30 with Yanmar 12HP Diesel; winterize

It's that time of year here in southern illinois. I've never winterized a diesel or this boat before. Any suggestions would be helpful.

Thanks!
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post #2 of 10 Old 10-16-2018
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Re: Oday 30 with Yanmar 12HP Diesel; winterize

You realize that this is in the "how-to videos" section - right?

I don't have a video, but here is what I do to prepare for winter in Rhode Island with my O'day 35:

[EDIT] I forgot to mention that I live in a townhouse-style condo in MA without a basement, so I don't have room to store all this stuff.

I start the whole process by removing and flaking the sails. I remove the battens and store them below. I put the sails in their bags, and stow them in the cabin. I open every compartment (drawers, bilge, under settee) to allow air to flow throughout the cabin and the bilge. I put a solar vent in place both of my dorade cowls so that air is forced through the cabin. I stack the cabin cushions on top of the bagged sails, and try to ensure that air can flow around them as well. I also clean and polish the windows in my dodger. Once the windows look good, I remove the dodger canvas completely and store it somewhere "out of the way" in the cabin. [/EDIT]

First, I turn my attention to my Universal M25 engine;
  • I FILL the diesel tank and add some extra biocide.
  • I run the engine to warm it up, and then I change the oil and oil filter.
  • I vacuum water out everything along the raw water system, by tracing my way through the system: strainer, raw water pump (remove the impeller and set aside as a spare for next year), heat exchanger (change the zinc), waterlift muffler.
  • I FILL the transmission with ATF to keep the seals moist during the off-season.
  • I look at the Raycor fuel filter and consider changing it. I usually don't. If there is any dirt or moisture in the bowl I would change it. It was last changed at 436hrs, and the engine currently has ~800hrs on it. If I were to change it, I would also change the secondary at the same time.
  • Liberally spray WD-40 on the engine and wipe it down as best as I can. While wiping I look at the alternator / raw water pump belt and check its condition.

Then I winterize the boat;
  • Wash the deck and pay particular attention to the anchor locker and the rode. Make sure that the cockpit scuppers are clear.
  • Rinse and pump out the holding tank - repeat at least three times.
  • Drain the fresh water tanks
  • Drain the hot water heater
  • I then use a compressor to blow air through all the freshwater lines and valves. This sounds arduous, but it takes me about 5 minutes. I long-ago removed the Y selector valve (2 tanks) and added a 3 valve manifold. During the season I can select either tank or draw from both, or shut off both tanks and draw from a third source, which during winterization is either compressed air, or an antifreeze bottle. I pressurize the line to ~30PSI and open each valve until air comes out.
  • Then I add about two gallons of -60F PROPYLENE GLYCOL antifreeze and run it through the system until I see purple antifreeze come out each valve. I add some of that two gallons to the holding tank too - just in case.
  • Vacuum out any dirt or water from the bilge. Then I add about a gallon of auto antifreeze concentrate in case water finds its way here.
  • Charge the batteries to 100% and then disconnect everything connected to the negative leads. I connect a battery tender for the few times in the winter that I visit my boat, but this is optional.
  • I loosen the coupling bolts so that IF there is any flex in the hull, it will not strain the driveline.
  • I shut off the fuel line to the engine at the tank and I tape over the fuel vent with blue painter's tape.
  • Then I build a frame so that the shrink wrapper can do his thing.

During this process I also verify that I exercise each through-hull, and will do so again in the spring.

I do not remove the remnants of the drive-line anodes. I leave these in place until spring when I will replace them.

I hope this helps.
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Last edited by eherlihy; 10-16-2018 at 07:00 PM.
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Re: Oday 30 with Yanmar 12HP Diesel; winterize

Quote:
Originally Posted by eherlihy View Post
You realize that this is in the "how-to videos" section - right?

I don't have a video, but here is what I do to prepare for winter in Rhode Island with my O'day 35:

[EDIT] I forgot to mention that I live in a townhouse-style condo in MA without a basement, so I don't have room to store all this stuff.

I start the whole process by removing and flaking the sails. I remove the battens and store them below. I put the sails in their bags, and stow them in the cabin. I open every compartment (drawers, bilge, under settee) to allow air to flow throughout the cabin and the bilge. I put a solar vent in place both of my dorade cowls so that air is forced through the cabin. I stack the cabin cushions on top of the bagged sails, and try to ensure that air can flow around them as well. I also clean and polish the windows in my dodger. Once the windows look good, I remove the dodger canvas completely and store it somewhere "out of the way" in the cabin. [/EDIT]


First, I turn my attention to my Universal M25 engine;
  • I FILL the diesel tank and add some extra biocide.
  • I run the engine to warm it up, and then I change the oil and oil filter.
  • I vacuum water out everything along the raw water system, by tracing my way through the system: strainer, raw water pump (remove the impeller and set aside as a spare for next year), heat exchanger (change the zinc), waterlift muffler.
  • I FILL the transmission with ATF to keep the seals moist during the off-season.
  • I look at the Raycor fuel filter and consider changing it. I usually don't. If there is any dirt or moisture in the bowl I would change it. It was last changed at 436hrs, and the engine currently has ~800hrs on it. If I were to change it, I would also change the secondary at the same time.
  • Liberally spray WD-40 on the engine and wipe it down as best as I can. While wiping I look at the alternator / raw water pump belt and check its condition.

Then I winterize the boat;
  • Wash the deck and pay particular attention to the anchor locker and the rode. Make sure that the cockpit scuppers are clear.
  • Rinse and pump out the holding tank - repeat at least three times.
  • Drain the fresh water tanks
  • Drain the hot water heater
  • I then use a compressor to blow air through all the freshwater lines and valves. This sounds arduous, but it takes me about 5 minutes. I long-ago removed the Y selector valve (2 tanks) and added a 3 valve manifold. During the season I can select either tank or draw from both, or shut off both tanks and draw from a third source, which during winterization is either compressed air, or an antifreeze bottle. I pressurize the line to ~30PSI and open each valve until air comes out.
  • Then I add about two gallons of -60F PROPYLENE GLYCOL antifreeze and run it through the system until I see purple antifreeze come out each valve. I add some of that two gallons to the holding tank too - just in case.
  • Vacuum out any dirt or water from the bilge. Then I add about a gallon of auto antifreeze concentrate in case water finds its way here.
  • Charge the batteries to 100% and then disconnect everything connected to the negative leads. I connect a battery tender for the few times in the winter that I visit my boat, but this is optional.
  • I loosen the coupling bolts so that IF there is any flex in the hull, it will not strain the driveline.
  • I shut off the fuel line to the engine at the tank and I tape over the fuel vent with blue painter's tape.
  • Then I build a frame so that the shrink wrapper can do his thing.

During this process I also verify that I exercise each through-hull, and will do so again in the spring.

I do not remove the remnants of the drive-line anodes. I leave these in place until spring when I will replace them.

I hope this helps.
Pretty thorough, IMHO, but I would have the holding tank pumped out before hauling the boat and then add the antifreeze.
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Re: Oday 30 with Yanmar 12HP Diesel; winterize

Thank you very much!! Very good information.
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Re: Oday 30 with Yanmar 12HP Diesel; winterize

Regarding the diesel engine; 12 hp yanmar.... what type of oil are you using when changing the crankcase oil?
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Re: Oday 30 with Yanmar 12HP Diesel; winterize

I haven't seen this before. Am I reading this right that you don't run PG through the raw water cooling side of your engine?


Quote:
Originally Posted by eherlihy View Post
You realize that this is in the "how-to videos" section - right?

I don't have a video, but here is what I do to prepare for winter in Rhode Island with my O'day 35:

[EDIT] I forgot to mention that I live in a townhouse-style condo in MA without a basement, so I don't have room to store all this stuff.

I start the whole process by removing and flaking the sails. I remove the battens and store them below. I put the sails in their bags, and stow them in the cabin. I open every compartment (drawers, bilge, under settee) to allow air to flow throughout the cabin and the bilge. I put a solar vent in place both of my dorade cowls so that air is forced through the cabin. I stack the cabin cushions on top of the bagged sails, and try to ensure that air can flow around them as well. I also clean and polish the windows in my dodger. Once the windows look good, I remove the dodger canvas completely and store it somewhere "out of the way" in the cabin. [/EDIT]

First, I turn my attention to my Universal M25 engine;
  • I FILL the diesel tank and add some extra biocide.
  • I run the engine to warm it up, and then I change the oil and oil filter.
  • I vacuum water out everything along the raw water system, by tracing my way through the system: strainer, raw water pump (remove the impeller and set aside as a spare for next year), heat exchanger (change the zinc), waterlift muffler.
  • I FILL the transmission with ATF to keep the seals moist during the off-season.
  • I look at the Raycor fuel filter and consider changing it. I usually don't. If there is any dirt or moisture in the bowl I would change it. It was last changed at 436hrs, and the engine currently has ~800hrs on it. If I were to change it, I would also change the secondary at the same time.
  • Liberally spray WD-40 on the engine and wipe it down as best as I can. While wiping I look at the alternator / raw water pump belt and check its condition.

Then I winterize the boat;
  • Wash the deck and pay particular attention to the anchor locker and the rode. Make sure that the cockpit scuppers are clear.
  • Rinse and pump out the holding tank - repeat at least three times.
  • Drain the fresh water tanks
  • Drain the hot water heater
  • I then use a compressor to blow air through all the freshwater lines and valves. This sounds arduous, but it takes me about 5 minutes. I long-ago removed the Y selector valve (2 tanks) and added a 3 valve manifold. During the season I can select either tank or draw from both, or shut off both tanks and draw from a third source, which during winterization is either compressed air, or an antifreeze bottle. I pressurize the line to ~30PSI and open each valve until air comes out.
  • Then I add about two gallons of -60F PROPYLENE GLYCOL antifreeze and run it through the system until I see purple antifreeze come out each valve. I add some of that two gallons to the holding tank too - just in case.
  • Vacuum out any dirt or water from the bilge. Then I add about a gallon of auto antifreeze concentrate in case water finds its way here.
  • Charge the batteries to 100% and then disconnect everything connected to the negative leads. I connect a battery tender for the few times in the winter that I visit my boat, but this is optional.
  • I loosen the coupling bolts so that IF there is any flex in the hull, it will not strain the driveline.
  • I shut off the fuel line to the engine at the tank and I tape over the fuel vent with blue painter's tape.
  • Then I build a frame so that the shrink wrapper can do his thing.

During this process I also verify that I exercise each through-hull, and will do so again in the spring.

I do not remove the remnants of the drive-line anodes. I leave these in place until spring when I will replace them.

I hope this helps.
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Re: Oday 30 with Yanmar 12HP Diesel; winterize

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tanley View Post
I haven't seen this before. Am I reading this right that you don't run PG through the raw water cooling side of your engine?
Yes, you are. I suck all of the salt (raw) water out of the raw water system with my trusty Shop Vac, so there is nothing to freeze. Many of my neighbors buy several gallons (usually 8) of PG every year. I buy two, and that is primarily used for my (potable?) freshwater system.

After surviving 8 Rhode Island winters, this winterization procedure that I follow has proven itself to work for me. YMMV.


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Re: Oday 30 with Yanmar 12HP Diesel; winterize

Really like the simplicity of this idea...

Quote:
Originally Posted by eherlihy View Post
Yes, you are. I suck all of the salt (raw) water out of the raw water system with my trusty Shop Vac, so there is nothing to freeze. Many of my neighbors buy several gallons (usually 8) of PG every year. I buy two, and that is primarily used for my (potable?) freshwater system.

After surviving 8 Rhode Island winters, this winterization procedure that I follow has proven itself to work for me. YMMV.
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Re: Oday 30 with Yanmar 12HP Diesel; winterize

The thing to consider with just draining the exhaust system is the waterlift muffler. Depending on the make and model you have, it can be easy or difficult to drain completely. I am a fan of draining as much as you can, and then running antifreeze through just to be sure. Only takes a gallon or two which I consider cheap insurance.

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Last edited by JimsCAL; 10-19-2018 at 06:46 PM.
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Re: Oday 30 with Yanmar 12HP Diesel; winterize

Agree with @JimsCAL that some mufflers are easier to drain than others. I have a Vetus, which has a drain on the side. If I recall correctly, the Catalina 30 has a fiberglass muffler with no drain, and the whole muffler is epoxied to the hull (integral to the pan?) under the galley.


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