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post #11 of 20 Old 07-03-2017
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Re: Replacing Deadlights

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A thought...

VHB tape is the bees knees...if you use the right type. There are different types, so learn which will work best. It's in all the bog box stores...but not for all applications.

You would need that guitar string to remove it....but will probably never need to.
Here in Canada, I didn't find much in the box stores. The lip on these aluminum ports is quite narrow and I think I wanted tape about 3/8 wide and thick enough (1mm?) to act as spacer. I found it in smaller quantities on eBay (from Hong Kong!) In US, even Walmart may have it! Certainly car parts stores.
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post #12 of 20 Old 07-19-2017 Thread Starter
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Re: Replacing Deadlights

It has been suggested that I use 3m 4000 to bed the plexi into the frame and against the cabin. I also have considered using 3m Marine silicone.
Any comments or suggestions?
-CH
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post #13 of 20 Old 07-20-2017
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Re: Replacing Deadlights

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It has been suggested that I use 3m 4000 to bed the plexi into the frame and against the cabin. I also have considered using 3m Marine silicone.
Any comments or suggestions?
-CH
The 4000 would be fine for bedding the aluminum frame to the cabin wall. But it is not suitable for adhering the acrylic pane to the aluminum frame. Silicone isn't a good adhesive at all. Believe me, I have been though this many times on Mirages, Kirby's, Tanzers.

The Dow 795 is by far the best for the setting the panes into the frames. You likely would have to get that from a commercial window company. The other possibility is Sikaflex 295 which is stocked by marine stores. You could use the 795 or the 295 for setting the frames into the cabin, but the 4000 would be better if you ever want to get them off again!
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post #14 of 20 Old 07-20-2017 Thread Starter
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Re: Replacing Deadlights

795 it is! (Or, will be.) for bedding the plastic into the frames.

If I use 3m 4000 for bedding the frames to the cabin should I use spacers so the bead remains thicker to allow for movement?
-CH
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post #15 of 20 Old 07-20-2017
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Re: Replacing Deadlights

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Originally Posted by Chas H View Post
795 it is! (Or, will be.) for bedding the plastic into the frames.

If I use 3m 4000 for bedding the frames to the cabin should I use spacers so the bead remains thicker to allow for movement?
-CH
You may need to use spacers when inserting the panes into the frames. They originally may have had thin plastic spacers (or on earlier boats, butyl tape) on the inside of the panes (that oozed out and and left the panes loose)! That is where I used VHB tape about 1/16" thick. Do a trial fit of the panes. I increased thickness of the panes so that exterior caulk would look about same as original rubber splines. With even thicker panes, the spacers wouldn't be required. Just a thin layer of 795 or 295.

I don't think there is any reason to add spacers between frame and cabin top. I did mount my ports using butyl tape. It's about 1/8" thick but the screws compress it. I ran a bead of sealant around the exterior of the tape 9it was not full width of the aluminum port flange. Some of this oozed out, but was easily cut away once cured.

Hope this is understandable. Easier to do than describe! The key was getting rid of those rubber splines - The 795 does a great job.
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post #16 of 20 Old 08-17-2017 Thread Starter
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Re: Replacing Deadlights

JOB DONE!
It was not as difficult as I first imagined and with good advice from contributors it looks great!

Used a putty knife to carefully separate the frame from the cabin. I think they were bedded in butyl.
The plexi pushed out of the frame with no effort. The old gaskets fell apart.
Sanded the frame contact surfaces with 120 grit sandpaper.
Buffed the plexi faces by hand the with 1000 and 2000 grit Aqua Buff compound.
Sanded the faces of the plexi around the perimeter about 1/4 inch from the edges with 600 grit wet or dry.
Laid the frames on a flat hard surface.
Squirted a small bead of 795 around the frame where the plexi seats.
Inserted the plexi into the frame.
Squirted another bead of 795 around the perimeter on the outside surface of the plexi.
Put weights on the plexi and waited for the 795 to dry. The 795 shrunk into a nice fillet.
Sanded the gel coat on the cabin sides where the frame seats with 120 grit sandpaper.
Squirted a bead of 4000 on the cabin side.
Screwed the frame in place.
I added more 795 around the perimeter of the plexi and formed about a 3/16 R fillet.
-CH
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post #17 of 20 Old 08-17-2017
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Re: Replacing Deadlights

Congrats - Sounds like a job well done.
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post #18 of 20 Old 09-13-2017 Thread Starter
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Re: Replacing Deadlights

Funny how sillycone is considered the bane of all marine sealants and Dow 795 is suggested for deadlight mounting in AL frames. 795 is a silicone sealant! I used it anyway. Can't leak any worse than before if it doesn't hold for a year.
-CH
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post #19 of 20 Old 09-13-2017
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Re: Replacing Deadlights

For you frugal guys, check out the dumpster at any auto body shop. They turf out partial rolls of all kinds of window sealant stuff. Keeps well so you can stash until date needed.
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post #20 of 20 Old 09-14-2017
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Re: Replacing Deadlights

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Originally Posted by Chas H View Post
Funny how sillycone is considered the bane of all marine sealants and Dow 795 is suggested for deadlight mounting in AL frames. 795 is a silicone sealant! I used it anyway. Can't leak any worse than before if it doesn't hold for a year.
-CH
Chas - Silicone is kind of a generic name for a family of sealants and adhesives. They are not created equal! The product sold as Marine Silicone is not the same as bathroom silicone and definitely not same as Dow's 795 which is a structural adhesive.

795 adheres to acrylic and other plastics as well as to aluminum and glass. Marine silicone does not. Don't worry about your 795 not lasting long. My ports have been in for 3 or 4 years and still are 100% good. So much better than those crappy rubber splines so many boat ports have.
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