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post #21 of 28 Old 12-15-2018
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Re: Mirage 33 good and bad

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Originally Posted by Knot Again View Post
Hi Boatsurgeon,

I have a Mirage 35. I’d like to replace the two reef lines this winter. There appears to be in-boom sheaves around which the lines are routed? Any advice on how to accomplish this?

Thanks!
I just reread your post and realized there was no mention of excess friction, just that you wish to replace the lines.

I replaced the reefing lines in this boom last year.

1. Remove the stopper knot on the boom end cap.

2. Butt stitch a new line to the old (was bitter end of the knot).

3. Pull the new line through by the old (from the other end of the old).

4. Unstitch the old line and discard.

5. Tie a new stopper knot in the new line.
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post #22 of 28 Old 12-15-2018
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Re: Mirage 33 good and bad

Thanks. When you pull that boom apart, Iíd appreciate it if you could let me know the length of the two reef lines.

Binding does seem to be an issue.
Last year I replaced the masthead and base of mast sheaves, but both sails require more effort than I consider reasonable to raise. If you have a y thoghts, please share!

I am what I am and thatís all what I am - Popeye the Sailor
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post #23 of 28 Old 12-16-2018
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Re: Mirage 33 good and bad

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Originally Posted by Knot Again View Post
Thanks. When you pull that boom apart, Iíd appreciate it if you could let me know the length of the two reef lines.

Binding does seem to be an issue.
Last year I replaced the masthead and base of mast sheaves, but both sails require more effort than I consider reasonable to raise. If you have a y thoghts, please share!
I replaced the lines in boom on the 33 last year, all standard double yacht braid.

ITEM DESCRIPTION
1.00 Inspect boom reefing system
2.00 RE & RE Outhaul - 42' x 5/16" White
3.00 RE & RE Reef 1 - 54' x 3/8" Blue Fleck
4.00 RE & RE Reef 2 - 72' x 3/8" Red Fleck

For troubleshooting mainsail hoist difficulty, my recommendation is:

1. Clean the track and apply dry lube.

2. Clean the slugs and apply dry lube.

3. Ease and work all reefing lines so they have no bearing on hoist.

4. Hoist the main.

If hard, check all masthead sheeves and deck turning blocks and organizer sheeves for friction.

If easy, the problem is likely in reefing system friction (check boom internals).
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post #24 of 28 Old 12-17-2018
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Re: Mirage 33 good and bad

Thanks!

I am what I am and thatís all what I am - Popeye the Sailor
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post #25 of 28 Old 01-08-2019
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Re: Mirage 33 good and bad

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Originally Posted by Knot Again View Post
Thanks. When you pull that boom apart, I’d appreciate it if you could let me know the length of the two reef lines.

Binding does seem to be an issue.
Last year I replaced the masthead and base of mast sheaves, but both sails require more effort than I consider reasonable to raise. If you have a y thoghts, please share!
Well, I pulled the gooseneck cap off the boom.

There is a line inside the boom that is severely chafed and appears to have been binding.

The boom has 2.5" wide by 1/8" thick aluminium flat bar pop rivetted down each side. It looks like it might be a Previous Owner mod to help make the boom more stiff/robust.

Can anyone following confirm if this flat bar is factory vs previous owner installed?

I have to have another look, but I think it was the portions of the pop rivets on the inside of the boom that this line was binding / chafing on. That was causing the reefing line to bind up.
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post #26 of 28 Old 01-24-2019
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Re: Mirage 33 good and bad

Interesting conversation here, and I'm not here to start a fight, just some comments I have after a full year of Lake Huron cruising on my 1982 M33.

-The stemhead is known to fail. There's proof of this. I had mine made by Stainless Outfitters in Southern Ontario, solid piece, replaced it myself with the boat in the water and mast in place, not rocket science (I made a thread on this).
-The rest of the boat has been AMAZING. She sails well (much to the envy of my friend with a C&C) she's comfortable, we love love love this boat after much shopping.
-Watch for chainplate leaks. They are mounted to a plywood bulkhead and if those rot from a tiny leak in the deck you will have a bad time. Seal the chainplates properly before the leak appears.
-It's a deck stepped mast, make sure everything is sealed proper there as well, don't risk the step!
-My spreaders had cracks on their trailing edges (found this winter when we hauled out and plucked the mast). I had a machine shop do a foldover patch and welded them properly, stronger than new, but prevent them from failing (bad times I'm sure). Inspect your spreaders, especially the trailing edge!
-I found it very difficult to access the fuel tank to drain\clean it. I can't get a syphon hose down the fillter port (the fuel line is routed with too many bends in it) and it's tight working in the lazarette to get INSIDE the tank. I'm figuring out a good way to do it this spring after giving up last summer.

Now, I did alot of research on this boat. Time and time again everyone confirmed they had a solid FG hull. The deck has balsa. I also know the Mirage's were carried on for a long production run too so maybe some of the very late production years had cored hulls, the '82 almost definitely did not unless all my research sources were wrong (save for the 1 post here I'm reading which is the first I've ever heard of it).

Every Mirage I looked at had a heat exchanger freshwater cooling system, so I assume the statement of how they are all raw water cooled if true means most owners upgraded at some point, or that the freshwater cooling was an option offered. To be fair, I looked at 3 M33's and 1 M35 during my shopping, all freshwater cooler (heat exchanger + coolant).

Although a little more power is nice in a diesel, especially in bad weather (don't forget this is a SAILboat now), I will agree the 2gmF13 is about as small an engine as I would want to go on a boat like this, but I don't feel it to be dangerously underpowered for crusing by any means. Without taxing the engine (not riding the redline) in mixed to moderate weather (steep waves on the lake) we still putter along as 5kts+ when we need to motor, with power remaining in the RPM if we needed it.

Just my 0.02c. Not trying to start a finger pointing game, just what I know to date.

EDIT: One last thing in regards specifically to the early 80's M33\35. Honestly I haven't found a single person on the internet (until now, it's now "1") who can say a bad thing about these boats. That goes down to surveyors I know, brokers I spoke to (who weren't selling me the boat, just in conversation), other sailors, and even John Kretschmer himself. I took his workshops a while back and when I bought my current boat he applauded it and said it was a great boat and that some of those early Perry designs were under recognized. If I had to guess why they are under recognized it would be because they are a Canadian made boat generally from the Great Lakes and they don't exactly populate marinas in Florida.

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Last edited by Guyfromthenorth; 01-24-2019 at 11:23 AM.
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post #27 of 28 Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Re: Mirage 33 good and bad

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Originally Posted by JShock33 View Post
For the salon fixed portlights repair on sailing anarchy a guy named dan33 or you can look up by his boat name gatekeeper, he posted a good step by step on his portlight repair. I need to replace my as well but thinking on doing it a different way than his, not better just faster. So far in the time I have owned my boat most of my repairs have been wiring, factory boat wiring leaves much to be desired and even worse were the PO attempts at adding to it. I haven't done it but behind the salon seat backrests there is what seems like a large void between the hull and liner you could cut access holes in there for storage other than that there doesn't seem to be and excess use of interior liner. I have been thinking about sound insulation for the engine compartment but haven't spent much time coming up with a plan but seems like it could be beneficial.
I would like to share what I have found out refitting my Mirage 35:

Fixed portlinghts - I removed the aluminum frames, tcleaned them with a wire brush, had them powdercoated, threw away the 'incredible shrinking grey plastic gaskets' , had a plastics shop make the largest ast acrylic replacement lenses that could fit in, and then had the lenses set intthe frames using Dow Corning 795 sealant. Then, after cleaning the area around the ports with stainless steel wool and acetone, remounted the cured external ports using 795 to seal between the port and cabin side. 3 years and no leaks, but best is no cheap plastic gaskets. Now if only I could find inside moldings to replace the white plastic ones I threw out, I would feel the job completed!

Storage behind settees in salons: I purchased a set of plans for the M33/35 from Bob Perry. The boat interior he drew is not the boat interior Mirage made. Perry drew storage behind the settees and also in the vberth sides. I cut out holes - 3 each side, in both salon and vberth. Size approx 8" high and 16" long. It is necessary to bridge the gap located at the turn of the seal ( ie where it goes from horizontal to vertical )at the point where the liner almost approaches the hull but does not quite. If you don't, then stuff you put in will slip down into the lockers below the seats / v berth. For the salon, I used plywood cut to the hull form - screwed to the bottom of the seat and glued to the hull with some Sika 291LOT. For the vberth, I cut 1 inch triangular strips of wood each about 3 feet long. After dry fitting, I buttered the wood strip edges with 291 and installed them. After the 291 set, I have a sealed bottom for the storage spaces. I am considering installing fabric covers ( with upholstery snaps) to close the storage areas and keep in their contents. Suggestions are welcome!

FWIW, I also installed additional opening ports - one in quarter berth, one on each side of the salon, one on each side of the vberth. All 4X14s except one on starboard side of the vberth is 4X10 as that was all that would fit.

The deck hardware on our boats is of disappointing quality. I bit the bullet and bought a load of replacement deck hardware from Stainless Outfitters. WARNING! The stanchion bases are not trustworthy. One of the ones I bought from Stainless Outfitters snapped off at the base due to defective welding when the wind blew the winter cover against the stanchion it contained. I had it re-welded by a local welder and am in the process of having all re-welded this winter. Also the gimpy set screws they use to hold the stanchion tubes into the bases were poorly threaded, some just didn't set, and they simply put a dimple into the stanchion tube. I would NOT trust them for anything. If you are thinking of Stainless Outfitters as a solution, I have experienced their custom work on my boat - a failed installation of a windlass; installation of their stainless steel bow stem fitting ( unfilled holes left exposed), their davits ( too heavy, not suited to the Mira)ge and I got rid of them. I dropped by their yard one day to see how installation work was going on my boat (which was left in their yard) and found a small group of high school students working on installing stanchion bases, corner pieces, bow stem fitting, mast step, etc. No wonder the installation was poorly done. But that did not stop them from charging me $2000 for installation. Frankly, given the disappointments with them, and my very good experiences with Garhauer, I would not bother with Stainless Outfitters and would just buy from Garhauer. No bs.

Not my intention to bad mouth anyone, but I am sick and tired of people in the marine industry ripping off trusting boat owners. Also, I couldn't stand the thought of someone relying on a stanchion base that was as poorly quality controlled as the defective crap they sold me....Lets be serious guys, defective stanchion bases can kill people!

I have a number of other projects in the hopper for my boat, and appreciate information you can share about your progress.
Cheers
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post #28 of 28 Old 3 Weeks Ago
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This summer I kept my boat out of the water so I could catch up on some much needed work. I removed the transmission to repair the clutch cone that was slipping and with the trans out it made sense to remove the fuel tank so I could clean and inspect it. With both the fuel tank and trans removed I figured this would be the time to add some sound deadening to the engine compartment. I haven't finished adding the material to the entire area but I have about 80 percent of it done. When it is complete I will do a follow up on if or how much improvement it made. Another thing I almost completed was replacing the fixed portlights which I think we may have a similar dilemma in what to use to fill the interior void where the interior liner meets the glass. I ended up doing a surface mount with vhb tape a Dow Corning 795 calk. Also looking at replacing my 2 blade flexofold with a Campbell sailer propeller before it launches next season. I haven't been happy with the flexofold in reverse as some have had problems where doesn't open up fully and stopping takes way to long. I'm also wanting less vibration and noise which no 2 blade will be able to deliver. I have been working on other projects like replacing hoses, sheets, battery charger and more wiring but not much to learn from those.
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