Mirage33 Salon Portlight removal - SailNet Community
 
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post #1 of 4 Old 12-11-2018 Thread Starter
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Mirage33 Salon Portlight removal

I am chasing rain water leaks !!…. I have read the other portlight thread on the forum (M29 I think) and it mentions the many screws on the outside of the portlight. The salon lights on my 1982 M33 have no screws and no visible means of removal. I know there must be a way to get them off for rebedding…. any suggestions ????. The smaller opening lights have screws and are not an issue. Just the fixed lights

Thanks in advance

Last edited by 1973TR6; 12-11-2018 at 11:44 AM.
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post #2 of 4 Old 01-24-2019
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Re: Mirage33 Salon Portlight removal

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Originally Posted by 1973TR6 View Post
I am chasing rain water leaks !!…. I have read the other portlight thread on the forum (M29 I think) and it mentions the many screws on the outside of the portlight. The salon lights on my 1982 M33 have no screws and no visible means of removal. I know there must be a way to get them off for rebedding…. any suggestions ????. The smaller opening lights have screws and are not an issue. Just the fixed lights

Thanks in advance
I'd be interested in what you discover when you remove yours, I too have an 82 M33. My grey rubber seals inside the exterior aluminum frames need replacing and I don't know where to find them.

As far as your issue goes, I'm betting they are just glued in (the metal frame). I've had the INTERIOR white vinyl "frame" pop off on a few of mine and there's definitely no fasteners inside the boat. I think glueing portlights in was popular in, at least, Canadian boats at the time. Many C&C's were just glued in place from that era as well.

Some youtube videos, nothing fancy


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post #3 of 4 Old 01-24-2019
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Re: Mirage33 Salon Portlight removal

TR6-
I rebedded the deadlights (non-opening) on my 24 mirage. I used Dow 795 to fix them into the aluminum frames.
The frames are sealed with 3m 4000 and screwed to the cabin.
Since the frames on your boat are not screwed on I would use 795 to fasten the frames to the cabin as well.
It will probably be necessary to put pressure against the deadlights to get a good seal against the cabin until the sealant is dry.
I also used Dow 795 to rebed the forward deck hatch. Very pleased with the results.
Butyl was an option for both frame to boat seal points, but I chose 795.

My procedure:

Used a putty knife to carefully separate the frame from the cabin. I think they were bedded in butyl.
The plexi pushed out of the frame with no effort. The old gaskets fell apart.
Sanded the frame contact surfaces with 120 grit sandpaper.
Buffed the plexi faces by hand the with 1000 and 2000 grit Aqua Buff compound.
Sanded the faces of the plexi around the perimeter about 1/4 inch from the edges with 600 grit wet or dry.
Laid the frames on a flat hard surface.
Squirted a small bead of 795 around the frame where the plexi seats.
Inserted the plexi into the frame.
Squirted another bead of 795 around the perimeter on the outside surface of the plexi.
Put weights on the plexi and waited for the 795 to dry. The 795 shrunk into a nice fillet.
Sanded the gel coat on the cabin sides where the frame seats with 120 grit sandpaper.
Squirted a bead of 4000 on the cabin side.
Screwed the frame in place.
Added more 795 around the perimeter of the plexi and formed about a 3/16 R fillet.
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post #4 of 4 Old 09-04-2019
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Re: Mirage33 Salon Portlight removal

A little bit late to the game on this one, but Holland Marine carries grey gaskets for Mirage windows in particular:

hollandmarine.com/gasketpage.html

Haven't used it yet, but found it while looking to re-bed the deadlights on my Mirage 35.

Cheers!
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