Electrical problem, alternator replacement, bracket upgrade, now exhaust coolant leak - Page 2 - SailNet Community
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post #11 of 21 Old 06-23-2019
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I did the same bracket replacement a few years ago on my Newport 30 III with the M-18 engine. Had same bolt problems.
I found that the "Gator" belt from the Goodyear auto store was the belt that fit best with the least dust. I did need to go to a shorter belt and tried 2 different lengths before I found the best fit. Be sure to get a spare belt or 2.

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post #12 of 21 Old 06-24-2019
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Re: Electrical problem, alternator replacement, bracket upgrade, now exhaust coolant

I have had several after market high output alternators on my MD17D. It required matching the alignment and making custom brackets and new belts... bolts, nuts and washers of course. It took a while each time to get the geometry etc. correct. I use thru bolting not threaded mounts. No kits... I sketched the brackets and had the parts machined. I use Nappa belts.

Check your belt tension periodically.

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post #13 of 21 Old 3 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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Re: Electrical problem, alternator replacement, bracket upgrade, now exhaust coolant

Quick update. I now have several hours on the alternator bracket upgrade. Everything is working fine. No issues with belt dust or alignment issues. The only oddity is the alternator actually starting to charge RPM. When I start the engine, the rpm is between 500 and 700. I have to advance the throttle to get the alternator to start charging (somewhere around 1000 rpm) and the tachometer to start indicating the engine RPM. Not a big issue, and probably the way the voltage regulator is designed. Other than that, everything is working as it is supposed to.
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Re: Electrical problem, alternator replacement, bracket upgrade, now exhaust coolant

The tach should read lower rpms, but it's normal for an alternator to provide very little to no charging at too low an rpm. At anchor, if you use your main engine to charge batteries (in neutral of course), you typically have to juice up the rpms to 40ish % of max.


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Re: Electrical problem, alternator replacement, bracket upgrade, now exhaust coolant

You may be able to find rhe output curve graph for your alt on the internet.
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Re: Electrical problem, alternator replacement, bracket upgrade, now exhaust coolant

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Originally Posted by MitchK View Post
Quick update. I now have several hours on the alternator bracket upgrade. Everything is working fine. No issues with belt dust or alignment issues. The only oddity is the alternator actually starting to charge RPM. When I start the engine, the rpm is between 500 and 700. I have to advance the throttle to get the alternator to start charging (somewhere around 1000 rpm) and the tachometer to start indicating the engine RPM. Not a big issue, and probably the way the voltage regulator is designed. Other than that, everything is working as it is supposed to.
This is normal for a self exciting alternator. Just bump the revs until the tach wakes up.. Also, 500-700 RPM is a pretty low idle for an M-18. Universal had an updated list of recommended ranges somewhere, but typically an M-18 to M-25 would be in the 900-1200 RPM range for idle speed.

Without knowing what alternator and regulator you have, it is impossible to say for sure if it is a self-excite unit.

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Re: Electrical problem, alternator replacement, bracket upgrade, now exhaust coolant

Re alternators...

I recently discovered the Balmar mc 614 was toast. I replaced it and the harnass and had the alternator checked at an alternator shop. It was fine.

The Balmar comes on and the voltage is 14.4 if I recall. Boat has been unused with no loads for weeks and only solar so the batts should have been topped up. The amp output at 14.4 v is low and variable and erratic... I haven't had it on and observed it very long... but the amps doesn't go about 12 or 14 and drops down to a few amps. This is running at about 1200 rpm. Alternator is am AmpTech 120 amp rating. I am reading this on a link 20... which perhaps needs to be re set????

Suggestions? More monitoring and data?

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Re: Electrical problem, alternator replacement, bracket upgrade, now exhaust coolant

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Originally Posted by Maine Sail View Post
This is normal for a self exciting alternator. Just bump the revs until the tach wakes up.. Also, 500-700 RPM is a pretty low idle for an M-18. Universal had an updated list of recommended ranges somewhere, but typically an M-18 to M-25 would be in the 900-1200 RPM range for idle speed.

Without knowing what alternator and regulator you have, it is impossible to say for sure if it is a self-excite unit.
^^^THIS^^^

Note that one reason why I upgraded from the stock 50 Amp Motorola alternator to a 90 Amp Leece-Neville Alternator is that it will charge at idle. The engine idle RPM for ALL Universal diesels up to the M35-B should be between 800 and 1000. My engine idles at 800 and the Leece-Neville alternator does charge the battery at this speed.
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Re: Electrical problem, alternator replacement, bracket upgrade, now exhaust coolant

My m30 idles well at 800.
Balmars graph says rhere is no otuput at rhat speed, but there is.
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The crankshaft pulley on the engine is 2-3
times the diameter of the alternator pulley. If the engine is turning 800 rpm the alt is turning 1600-2400 rpm. It will charge pretty good at that speed.
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