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post #41 of 43 Old 01-13-2018
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Re: Spirit 23 potential purchase


the only modifications that I made was to use a larger diameter roller, add the grease nipple and fit the 6mm pipe all the way to the aft floor support (with another collar to keep the grease inside the pipe). When I re-launched her last April after buying her, she started taking on water because the cable arrangement is below the water line. There was just the nylon collar in the tank connector to keep the water out. The greased-filled pipe stopped that.

Just before Christmas I cut the whole thing out and replaced everything. The metal roller housing is 75mm (3") wide, 100mm (4") high and 150mm (6") long. It is made of some sort of alloy, as there's not a spot of rust on it. Inside the box, slightly aft of centre, there's a 85mmx12mm (3 1/2"x1/2") stainless steel pin. This holds the roller in place. The original roller was 3/4" diameter and I thought it was too small a diameter to have a steel cable go over, so I replaced it with a 2" bearing roller. The purpose of this is to prevent the cable or rope from rubbing on the aft side of the box when the centreboard is lifted.

I've attached another diagram to show what might happen with my setup. I know it does touch when the centreboard is fully lifted (but that's because the lifting ring on my centreboard is about an inch too low, so swings back just behind the slot opening).

If you have a vertical rope to lift/lower the centreboard, then you might need two rollers. That's because with a single roller the rope WILL touch the fore edge of the keel slot when the centreboard is lowered. You might be able to shine a torch up the slot when she's lifted (or by diving underneath), but it's not easy to see. The hole size on mine is approx 2"x2". (and now that it's got a grease skirt I can't see into it anyway.)

I should say that I never got to see the alignment when the centreboard was lowered. It might be that the centreboard anchor is exactly below the slot, in which case the rope/cable should not touch the fore side of the keel slot. So a single pulley might be OK.
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keelBox.jpg   keelBox2.jpg  

Last edited by i_dunn; 01-13-2018 at 02:04 PM. Reason: alignment in diagram might be off
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post #42 of 43 Old 01-13-2018 Thread Starter
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Re: Spirit 23 potential purchase

i_dunn... thanks again the reply and for the additional diagrams. I see what's going on now with the cable rubbing against those edges.

I've seen the stock modification where the winch was mounted right above the slot where the cable runs. The winch was mounted on a post in the center of the cabin that also doubled as a support for a table.

I sometimes wish I could build that instead of doing the cable mods.

I got my boat out of the water and will begin work on it in about a week. The centerboard was in the down position. As the boat was moved onto the trailer, one of the cross members pushed the CB up into the keel slot as I was hoping would happen. The CB got a little dinged up but it will be fine. I will pull it out and hopefully get some pics of everything.

A question: I will be mooring this boat in a slip at a local marina once I've finished the work. I will leave the CB down all the time, unless I am in shoal areas (which isn't often). Since the boat will be moored in the water, I can leave the CB down all the time and that way I will not be raising/lowering the CB very often. But as shown in the diagrams provided by i_dunn, whether the CB is up or down, the cable is always rubbing the edge of the slot, right? Could one widen the slot?

Thanks for all the help.
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post #43 of 43 Old 01-14-2018
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Re: Spirit 23 potential purchase


the areas where it might rub was worst-case scenario. Mine only rubs on the aft edge (which is caused by the centreboard anchor point being slightly too low, so when it lifts it's slightly aft of the slot.

I've just been playing with the keel diagram on a CAD package. The horizontal distance between the centreboard being down and lifted is 138mm (just under 5 1/2"). If you have a vertical rope lift, and the rope is passed aft of the roller, this should stop any rubbing - as long as your centreboard anchor point isn't too low like mine is and the roller isn't ceased. That might explain the 3/4" roller, as it can be used in either case.

I only need to lift mine part way when moored, although I tend to lift it most of the way. The depth of the mooring on a Spring Low tide is 1.5m (which is roughly the same as the draft), so even if I lift it to 45 degrees it still shouldn't touch the bottom if there is any swell. One reason to lift it would be to stop if from sticking if there is a build up off crustaceans or mud. When I bought mine the centreboard had ceased and it took a while with a fence rail to force if out, even with the pivot pin removed.
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