'94 Johnson Sailmaster 9.9 - Wiring Harness / ignition question - SailNet Community
 
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post #1 of 6 Old 05-03-2018 Thread Starter
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'94 Johnson Sailmaster 9.9 - Wiring Harness / ignition question

I'm trying salvage my mess of a wiring harness, but I'm having no luck. The PO built a funky panel to house the ignition switch, but the switch is corroded and needs recabling. Next to the switch is a corroded and non functioning toggle switch that looks like its supposed to be connected to the ignition switch, but isn't. Is this an emergency cut off switch? Or something else? Also, is it supposed to be connected to the ignition switch? If so, how? Also, the cables in the pic run back to the battery.

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post #2 of 6 Old 05-03-2018
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Re: '94 Johnson Sailmaster 9.9 - Wiring Harness / ignition question

I'm pretty sure this is a PO DIY project. I had a 8 hp Johnson Sailmaster on a Pearson 26 many years ago. No panel. Just the cable that went back to the battery.

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Re: '94 Johnson Sailmaster 9.9 - Wiring Harness / ignition question

ok...but what was that toggle switch supposed to do?
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post #4 of 6 Old 05-04-2018
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Can you trace the wires and see where it goes and to what it connects to? Might be your only option?

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post #5 of 6 Old 05-06-2018
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Re: '94 Johnson Sailmaster 9.9 - Wiring Harness / ignition question

Just about impossible to figure out what the PO had in his mind from a couple of photos like that. Either trace it out as gladrags suggests or just start from scratch. Basically you have two functions: engine start and battery charging. I think that small electric start outboards use a single motor/generator for both functions, not a separate starter motor and an alternator like an inboard. If I were to guess, the one with the heavy wire going to the battery is for engine start and the small one is the engine stop (kill) switch.

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post #6 of 6 Old 05-07-2018 Thread Starter
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Re: '94 Johnson Sailmaster 9.9 - Wiring Harness / ignition question

The wires from the toggle switch go back to the positive and negative battery terminals. Which doesn't make sense, since there is no load (device) that is being switched. Clearly it was a PO DIY thing. No clue as to what it was though. Thanks everyone.
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