Just purchased a 1973 Pearson 30, need advice. - Page 2 - SailNet Community
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post #11 of 59 Old 05-15-2017
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Re: Just purchased a 1973 Pearson 30, need advice.

Forgot to mention .... that GREY bumper is only the 'attachment support' for the 'snap on' PVC rub-rail used on P30s.
The PVC rub rail 'was' (is?) available from D&R Marine, Assonet, MA. D&R bought up most of the Pearson and Oday boat parts when they both went out of business ... D & R Marine , ask for Rudy
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post #12 of 59 Old 05-15-2017 Thread Starter
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Re: Just purchased a 1973 Pearson 30, need advice.

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Originally Posted by RichH View Post
Forgot to mention .... that GREY bumper is only the 'attachment support' for the 'snap on' PVC rub-rail used on P30s.
The PVC rub rail 'was' (is?) available from D&R Marine, Assonet, MA. D&R bought up most of the Pearson and Oday boat parts when they both went out of business ... D & R Marine , ask for Rudy
The gray bumper doesn't have a lip/flange to screw down to at the broken section. I'm guessing it was broke and repaired. Will this be fine? I know I will need to make sure I seal it up with some thing because I can see it has an opening where it would of had the deck joint flange. I will call them to see what they have for sale.

What is best to put on the wood on the cockpit area? The varnish/stain is gone and needs some renewing.

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Chris
1973 Pearson 30 #411
Trinity, North Carolina
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post #13 of 59 Old 05-15-2017
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Re: Just purchased a 1973 Pearson 30, need advice.

The exterior wood on this 1973 boat isn't teak, it's Brazilian Iroko - a now endangered tropical softwood. Very BEAUTIFUL when properly coated, more beautiful than varnished teak because of the wavy and open grain, if you flat-sand and then hand rub the coating after it fully cures, the wood beneath the coating will become glowingly iridescent; the heat generated by your hand and wetted 'rottenstone' (hand rubbing compound) causes 'the glow'.
Not much in the way of varnish, Cetoil, etc. will 'stick' to the horizontal surfaces with any reliability because Iroko is quite subject to UV burn, even with coatings using UV blockers. For the cap rails on the cockpit coaming, Id suggest a 'resinated' oil, applied thick (don't wipe) and let to cure. Resinated oil is 25-50% oil based varnish + 50% oil, applied 'thick' just like varnish. The worst thing about oils or 'resinated' oils is they will eventually turn 'dark' after a season or two. A commercial version of 'resinated' oil is "NuTeak by MaryKate". https://www.jamestowndistributors.co...t.do?pid=11404
The best thing about 'resinated' oils is that theyre easily removed (each season) by applying a wet paste of TriSodiumPhosphate-TSP ... paint store stuff. TSP will loosen the oid oil finish. Follow up with oxalic acid to bleach it before re-coating. You really have to keep Iroko 'coated' as sunlight/UV easily ERODES deeply into the soft grain if its left 'bare'. OK to heavy coat the hand rails and companionway track boards, etc. with 'varnish'. Consider to put suncovers on if you elect to varnish (oil based varnish).

Call Rudy at D&R to see if he has some pieces of the PVC (screw down) deck flange rub rail support ... and the soft PVC rub rail 'bumper'. You might also want to see if he still has the 'weatherstripping' that seals the large side windows - notorious 'leakers'.


FWIW/Also - the P30 requires 'precise' blocking when its on the hard; or, the hull will twist, distort and develop huge indentations in the hull especially near the area just aft of the keel. When blocking, 'most' of the boat weight is supported by a large block under the front end of the keel.
Important - the second block under the keel is placed directly vertically down from where the aft end of the keel intersects with the hull. NOTHING should be placed further aft under the keel from this 'imaginary' line from where the keel intersects the hull.
A vee-poppet jack stand is placed at the bow and a second vee-poppit (or two standard jack stands) is placed between the prop and the stern to keep the hull 'stretched' (in tension) along its long axis. Leave the rigging 'tight' for winter lay-up to help support 'the ends' of the hull.
Ill try to find a sketch of this blocking plan and post it.

P30s, when set up correctly, are very SWEET SAILING boats, requiring only slight finger tip pressure on the tiller. Enjoy!!!!

Last edited by RichH; 05-15-2017 at 12:24 PM.
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post #14 of 59 Old 05-15-2017 Thread Starter
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Re: Just purchased a 1973 Pearson 30, need advice.

Here is how the yard set it up on the hard 2 years ago I think it was. From what I understand you saying I think this looks​ correct. The PVC channel originally fit over a fiberglass lip/flange didn't it? Where the side of the boat and the deck meet? Mine has no lip of fiberglass so this was what I was concerned with as there would be no way to screw the PVC channel to the boat at this one point.

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1973 Pearson 30 #411
Trinity, North Carolina

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Re: Just purchased a 1973 Pearson 30, need advice.

You're 'close enough' with the rear/aft keel blocking.

Nothing should be under the keel ..... aft of the vertical dashed red line.
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Re: Just purchased a 1973 Pearson 30, need advice.

Here's the rub rail support piece at D&R: DR Marine Product Detail

Here's the actual PVC Rub Rail: DR Marine Product Detail enough to do the both sides and stern of the boat.
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post #17 of 59 Old 05-16-2017
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Re: Just purchased a 1973 Pearson 30, need advice.

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What is best to put on the wood on the cockpit area? The varnish/stain is gone and needs some renewing.
In order to make the best use of your time, I don't think you should worry about cosmetic things for a while.

I think the order of importance before launch would be:

1) Boat floats
2) Engine works
3) Rigging (running and standing) is OK

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Re: Just purchased a 1973 Pearson 30, need advice.

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In order to make the best use of your time, I don't think you should worry about cosmetic things for a while.

I think the order of importance before launch would be:

1) Boat floats
2) Engine works
3) Rigging (running and standing) is OK
Well I would hope it would float, there could be more to this then I think but I very willing to take any advice.

I plan to use some Marvel's Mystery Oil to put down into the piston cylinder and valves. Should I get the engine to turn over then I'll be off to test compression.

Running rigging was supposedly replaced, don't think standing rigging was touched. What should I be on the lookout for?

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1973 Pearson 30 #411
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post #19 of 59 Old 05-16-2017
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Re: Just purchased a 1973 Pearson 30, need advice.

Good sailing boats - used to race against one in Jacksonville - it always did well, the older Pearson 30's were heavier and more sluggish - very different boats - I think you are in North Carolina - but here in Florida - if you paid more than 2K for it - you overpaid , if you got it for a song or free - then maybe worth it - just never expect to recoup the money you out into it.
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post #20 of 59 Old 05-16-2017
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Re: Just purchased a 1973 Pearson 30, need advice.

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Originally Posted by Rockhopper View Post
Well I would hope it would float, there could be more to this then I think but I very willing to take any advice.

I plan to use some Marvel's Mystery Oil to put down into the piston cylinder and valves. Should I get the engine to turn over then I'll be off to test compression.

Running rigging was supposedly replaced, don't think standing rigging was touched. What should I be on the lookout for?

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I am replacing a seacock that was frozen on my new-to-me boat. I realized, as I am doing this, that even if the other seacocks are not frozen, I have no idea if they will keep the lake on the outside of the boat.
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