The exterior wood on this 1973 boat isn't teak, it's Brazilian Iroko - a now endangered tropical softwood. Very BEAUTIFUL when properly coated, more beautiful than varnished teak because of the wavy and open grain, if you flat-sand and then hand rub the coating after it fully cures, the wood beneath the coating will become glowingly iridescent
; the heat generated by your hand and wetted 'rottenstone' (hand rubbing compound) causes 'the glow'.
Not much in the way of varnish, Cetoil, etc. will 'stick' to the horizontal surfaces with any reliability because Iroko is quite subject to UV burn, even with coatings using UV blockers. For the cap rails on the cockpit coaming, Id suggest a 'resinated' oil, applied thick (don't wipe) and let to cure. Resinated oil is 25-50% oil based varnish + 50% oil, applied 'thick' just like varnish. The worst thing about oils or 'resinated' oils is they will eventually turn 'dark' after a season or two. A commercial version of 'resinated' oil is "NuTeak by MaryKate". https://www.jamestowndistributors.co...t.do?pid=11404
The best thing about 'resinated' oils is that theyre easily removed (each season) by applying a wet paste of TriSodiumPhosphate-TSP ... paint store stuff. TSP will loosen the oid oil finish. Follow up with oxalic acid to bleach it before re-coating. You really have to keep Iroko 'coated' as sunlight/UV easily ERODES deeply into the soft grain if its left 'bare'. OK to heavy coat the hand rails and companionway track boards, etc. with 'varnish'. Consider to put suncovers on if you elect to varnish (oil based varnish).
Call Rudy at D&R to see if he has some pieces of the PVC (screw down) deck flange rub rail support ... and the soft PVC rub rail 'bumper'. You might also want to see if he still has the 'weatherstripping' that seals the large side windows - notorious 'leakers'.
FWIW/Also - the P30 requires 'precise' blocking when its on the hard; or, the hull will twist, distort and develop huge indentations in the hull especially near the area just aft of the keel. When blocking, 'most' of the boat weight is supported by a large block under the front end of the keel
Important - the second block under the keel is placed directly vertically down from where the aft end of the keel intersects with the hull. NOTHING should be placed further aft under the keel from this 'imaginary' line from where the keel intersects the hull.
A vee-poppet jack stand is placed at the bow and a second vee-poppit (or two
standard jack stands) is placed between
the prop and the stern to keep the hull 'stretched' (in tension) along its long axis. Leave the rigging 'tight' for winter lay-up to help support 'the ends' of the hull.
Ill try to find a sketch of this blocking plan and post it.
P30s, when set up correctly, are very SWEET SAILING boats, requiring only slight finger tip pressure on the tiller. Enjoy!!!!