Just purchased a 1973 Pearson 30, need advice. - Page 3 - SailNet Community
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post #21 of 59 Old 05-16-2017 Thread Starter
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Re: Just purchased a 1973 Pearson 30, need advice.

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Good sailing boats - used to race against one in Jacksonville - it always did well, the older Pearson 30's were heavier and more sluggish - very different boats - I think you are in North Carolina - but here in Florida - if you paid more than 2K for it - you overpaid , if you got it for a song or free - then maybe worth it - just never expect to recoup the money you out into it.
Paid $2500 for it and the inflatable dingy. I enjoy fixing things, as far as getting back what I put into it...well as long as it gives me and the family times we can remember I'll be happy.

Got the service and overhaul manual coming in from Moyer Marine on Thursday. Ken is full of good helpful information.

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1973 Pearson 30 #411
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post #22 of 59 Old 05-17-2017 Thread Starter
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Re: Just purchased a 1973 Pearson 30, need advice.

Here is what I was talking about with the broken section of rub rail written by BoatUS "The hull-to-deck joint on the P30 is an external flange with the two components glassed together and then mechanically fastened with stainless steel, sheet metal screws. This is a method of construction that is particularly prone to damage from impact with piers and pilings and should be carefully inspected."

Pearson didn't use seacocks, from what I read they used gate valves and some fiberglass tubes built into the hull. So I will try to inspect all I can this weekend.

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post #23 of 59 Old 05-20-2017 Thread Starter
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Re: Just purchased a 1973 Pearson 30, need advice.

Looks like the motor was in water from the flywheel cover. Am I correct?

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post #24 of 59 Old 05-20-2017
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Re: Just purchased a 1973 Pearson 30, need advice.

:-(
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Re: Just purchased a 1973 Pearson 30, need advice.

While rebuilding a boat can be a rewarding and satisfying way to spend a couple of years of your life, this boat sounds like a candidate for parting out. i.e. scrap value only, and that income would be offset against disposal costs of all the sawed-up hull and deck.
Sorry to be severely unenthused, but I have spent a LOT of time over the last 30 years working on sailboats. Even the really good ones can eat up continuing quantities time and money. And, some more time.... and some more money...

It's a buyers market, with many fine sailing classics, in actual sail-away condition, for a few thousand more than you say you paid.
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Re: Just purchased a 1973 Pearson 30, need advice.

Maybe an outboard motor bracket and engine would be less expensive than a rebuilt atomic 4? Or pull the engine, have the crank shaft journals polished, new bearings for the main and pistons, gaskets, rings, valve job, would be how much? And what about the transmission? I once had an Isuzu engine overheat then seize in my Chevy LUV truck. Had the valves redone and drove the truck for a few more years. Maybe some very fine wet dry paper on the journals and bearing surface will get her running. I wouldn't toss the engine just yet. Tear her down, inspect, polish, reassemble, run her up checking the oil pressure. She just might have dodged the bullet. Got nothing to lose at this point except time. Cranks can be ground true and over size bearings can be had. Here is a link to a supplier of Atomic parts: Moyer Marine Atomic 4 Engine Rebuilding and Parts

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post #27 of 59 Old 05-21-2017
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Re: Just purchased a 1973 Pearson 30, need advice.

Sounds like you have a major project on your hands. The engine has the potential to be the biggest problem. Rebuilding it or putting a rebuilt one in from Moyer will cost much more than you paid for the entire boat. Most of the other projects will require less $, but will take up many hours of sweat equity. When complete, you will have a decent boat, but worth far less than what you put in.

If the engine is indeed toast, you should consider cutting your losses and moving on to something that is in better shape.

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post #28 of 59 Old 05-21-2017
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Re: Just purchased a 1973 Pearson 30, need advice.

Go here - https://www.moyermarine.com/forums/s...ht=RUST+frozen using this Moyer forum topic as a gateway to find Don Moyer's article on how to free up a 'frozen' Atomic-4. Many years ago Don Moyer referred this as an "Engine SPA". If you can't locate this 'article', contact Moyer Marine directly.

Being rust frozen isn't a death sentence for most rust-locked engines. Many times all thats needed is a long term soak in 1. Marvel Mystery Oil, 2. Penetrating Oil, or 3. lightweight transmission oil + acetone (50:50 mix), etc.

Your picture of the 'orange' engine, the orange paint kind of indicates that the engine probably was removed for rebuild. Hopefully this was done after the engine and boat were flooded/sank.

I repeat: dont FORCE the engine to turn over. Remove the spark plugs, spritz in some penetrating oil, put a breaker bar with socket on the 'nose bolt' of the crankshaft and gently rock the crankshaft back and forth to verify that the piston rings aren't frozen to the piston ring grooves, etc. It may take several days of 'soaking' the engine to 'free up' the rings, etc. and increasing but gentle 'persuasion' by the breaker bar and socket.

good luck.

Last edited by RichH; 05-21-2017 at 10:00 AM.
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post #29 of 59 Old 05-21-2017 Thread Starter
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Re: Just purchased a 1973 Pearson 30, need advice.

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Go here - https://www.moyermarine.com/forums/s...ht=RUST+frozen using this Moyer forum topic as a gateway to find Don Moyer's article on how to free up a 'frozen' Atomic-4. Many years ago Don Moyer referred this as an "Engine SPA". If you can't locate this 'article', contact Moyer Marine directly.

Being rust frozen isn't a death sentence for most rust-locked engines. Many times all thats needed is a long term soak in 1. Marvel Mystery Oil, 2. Penetrating Oil, or 3. lightweight transmission oil + acetone (50:50 mix), etc.

Your picture of the 'orange' engine, the orange paint kind of indicates that the engine probably was removed for rebuild. Hopefully this was done after the engine and boat were flooded/sank.

I repeat: dont FORCE the engine to turn over. Remove the spark plugs, spritz in some penetrating oil, put a breaker bar with socket on the 'nose bolt' of the crankshaft and gently rock the crankshaft back and forth to verify that the piston rings aren't frozen to the piston ring grooves, etc. It may take several days of 'soaking' the engine to 'free up' the rings, etc. and increasing but gentle 'persuasion' by the breaker bar and socket.

good luck.
It appears the orange paint was sprayed on it while it was still in the boat due to the other stuff around it being orange. The engine base and side appears to be rusting and deteriorating. The screw clamps holding the hoses to the fittings for the water connections some we're so rusted they had broke a long time ago. I was going to pull it out but was afraid of dropping it. I may contact the marina and see what they charge to pull it since I unhooked and unbolted it all.

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1973 Pearson 30 #411
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post #30 of 59 Old 08-08-2017 Thread Starter
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Re: Just purchased a 1973 Pearson 30, need advice.

Well just an update...the engine was a waste. Rust on camshaft lobes and more. Got a replacement engine in great shape installed in the boat now.

This is the speed sensor right? So what is in it now? Is that a plug? Looks like someone painted bottom paint over the bottom so it's hard to tell what it looks like from the bottom side.

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Chris
1973 Pearson 30 #411
Trinity, North Carolina
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