Just purchased a 1973 Pearson 30, need advice. - Page 4 - SailNet Community
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post #31 of 57 Old 08-08-2017
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Re: Just purchased a 1973 Pearson 30, need advice.

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Well just an update...the engine was a waste. Rust on camshaft lobes and more. Got a replacement engine in great shape installed in the boat now.

This is the speed sensor right? So what is in it now? Is that a plug? Looks like someone painted bottom paint over the bottom so it's hard to tell what it looks like from the bottom side.
[...]
You are correct: That is the knotmeter (speed sensor). In its place in the hull is a plug. You should be able to trace the cable coming from the knotmeter to an instrument that interprets the turning of the paddle wheel into boat speed.

Once the paddle wheel on the knotmeter is cleaned and turning freely, replace the plug with the knotmeter, allowing as little water to gush into the boat as possible. Check the knotmeter for an arrow or something indicating which way it faces.
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post #32 of 57 Old 08-08-2017 Thread Starter
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Re: Just purchased a 1973 Pearson 30, need advice.

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You are correct: That is the knotmeter (speed sensor). In its place in the hull is a plug. You should be able to trace the cable coming from the knotmeter to an instrument that interprets the turning of the paddle wheel into boat speed.

Once the paddle wheel on the knotmeter is cleaned and turning freely, replace the plug with the knotmeter, allowing as little water to gush into the boat as possible. Check the knotmeter for an arrow or something indicating which way it faces.
The strange question is why is there a plug in it versus the speed sensor? The boat is on the hard right now so it should be fairly easy to do.

I'm pretty certain the sensor will only fit in it one way and it appears the rubber seal is missing. Do they sell a generic seal for this? I attempted to wiggle the plug out but I figure it's painted to the hull.

Thanks, just trying to get things on the boat fixed before I get it in the water.

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Chris
1973 Pearson 30 #411
Trinity, North Carolina
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post #33 of 57 Old 08-08-2017
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Re: Just purchased a 1973 Pearson 30, need advice.

Sometimes they replace the knotmeter with the plug when they pull the boat out of the water so the lifting straps, or painting dont damage it.
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Re: Just purchased a 1973 Pearson 30, need advice.

Okay, that makes sense. Any idea of the seal or o-ring size that seals the locking ring on the knot meter?
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Re: Just purchased a 1973 Pearson 30, need advice.

[QUOTE=Rockhopper;4024682]Well just an update...the engine was a waste. Rust on camshaft lobes and more. Got a replacement engine in great shape installed in the boat now./QUOTE]

I got the picture now! There are many types of sailors. For some it is a DIY project. Many people enjoy the doing up part as much as sailing the boat. I am a little bit that way myself:
https://davidchin35.blogspot.co.nz/

Magnum 21, Laser, Hobie 16, Noelex 22, Kestrel 19, Laser, 470, Seahopper, Optimist, Sunfish...
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Re: Just purchased a 1973 Pearson 30, need advice.

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Okay, that makes sense. Any idea of the seal or o-ring size that seals the locking ring on the knot meter?
You will need that plug to remove and clean the paddlewheel from time to time. Some like mine have a flapper in the body that closes the water off when you pull the plug in the water, I don't think that one has the flapper so pulling in the water can be a little intimidating. Try to do it with someone on the Boat with you as a backup. There should be an Oring under the nut, pull it before you splash and make sure its there.
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Re: Just purchased a 1973 Pearson 30, need advice.

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You will need that plug to remove and clean the paddlewheel from time to time. Some like mine have a flapper in the body that closes the water off when you pull the plug in the water, I don't think that one has the flapper so pulling in the water can be a little intimidating. Try to do it with someone on the Boat with you as a backup. There should be an Oring under the nut, pull it before you splash and make sure its there.
Well yeah, that sounds a bit unnerving to think about pulling it out and sea water rushing in . There was no o-ring unless it was sandwiched in between the plug and the body of the holder attached to the hull. But even in that case I'd want to replace a rubber o-ring, my o-ring for my fuel tank was cracked and leaking so I pumped the 8+ gallons of gas out of the tank and vacuumed the rest out (not the smartest thing, but couldn't figure out how else to do it.)

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Re: Just purchased a 1973 Pearson 30, need advice.

Rock-

What is the knotmeter and depth finder manufacturers? Is it Datamarine, Signet or Standard Horizon?

In the case of Datamarine, their transducers and dummy plugs have two o-rings on the barrel to keep water out, and none on the locking ring that screws down onto the through-hull.
In the summer, "funk" is going to grow on the paddle wheel and eventually jam it up.
Yes, water is going to pour in while you swap the dummy plug in and out. With practice, you get faster. I like to keep a small nerf ball or wooden plug handy to jam in the hole in case something goes wrong, such as fumbling the transducer and losing it in the bilge.
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Re: Just purchased a 1973 Pearson 30, need advice.

I can't honestly remember what brand they are. I remember most of them have a cover on them and a name stamped on the cover.

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Re: Just purchased a 1973 Pearson 30, need advice.

I'm impressed that you scrounged and installed an engine in such short order. Great job.
Ensure that the shaft is properly aligned at the transmission or you'll wear out the shaft log, stuffing box and cutlass bearing in a short time.

Regarding through-hulls- Pearson did not use gate valves, at least not in the P-30's. I was hull #255 and I visited one of the #100's with original gear and they were ball valves or Groco rubber cone seacocks (for the toilet flushing water and discharge).

The galley and head sinks are metal "standpipes" that are heavily glassed into the hull. While this is not ABYC-compliant these days, I found mine to be very robust and eventually I quit worrying about them. On a port tack in heavy weather, sometimes a little seawater will back up into the head sink but it doesn't overflow onto the floor or anything. Just don't store anything large and heavy near the standpipes that might impact them and you'll be fine.

I see that the compression post issue has already been noticed and addressed. Eventually, you need to get something under that post of the cabin top will "dish" inward, around the mast base. G10 (Garolite) from McMaster-Carr is a great product to create the shim from. It has incredible compressive resistance and is rot-free. Make a shim, whack it in place, glass a tab around it, and get on with life.

You seem pretty handy. If possibly, get a hydraulic automobile frame-straightener or a bottle jack with a long, VERY strong rod and jack up the cabin top near the top of the compression post (use a large, wood block to protect the cabin top liner) to make it easier to get the shim in under the post. You'll need to slack the standing rigging before you start, or just remove the mast. You can tell you're getting things lined up with the door striker gets close to lining up with the hole.

Check this out for ideas: https://pearson30olvido.wordpress.co...t-replacement/

Alacrity, 1981 Tartan 33 #168
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