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post #11 of 25 Old 12-16-2016
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Re: Rudder Shaft Seal

I looked at the web site. There are lots of things there I have never thought about before.

Are there bearings in a PSC 34 rudder tube? I should have felt down my tube with a bent rod when the rudder and its shaft were out, but I did not. I just know that the rudder shaft went in with no hang ups when we reinstalled it. From that I assumed that it was just a simple tube. Did I miss something?

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post #12 of 25 Old 12-16-2016
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Re: Rudder Shaft Seal

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Originally Posted by Hush34 View Post
Dave, Our gudgeon had to be removed with a couple of blows from a dead blow hammer. I did notice, even on our 27 year old PSC that there was grease in the gudgeon and along the entire post. At first glance, it seems that putting the rudder back in is straight forward, any tricks you might want to pass along.

I hope you are doing well after your decision to sell Swan....Take care!
Yes, it should be straightforward. I have put a thin coat of waterproof silicone grease on the shaft just to help things along. I had the rudder out multiple times. The hardest part is coaxing the gudgeon into perfect alignment with the bolt holes on the skeg while it supports the rudder. Supporting the rudder with blocks of wood and wood shims helps to achieve perfect alignment. Use a good heavy-duty sealant like slow cure 4200 or such to bed the interface between the skeg and gudgeon. Make sure the sealant has time to cure properly according to the instructions pre splash.

As to selling the Swan, we are still second guessing that one . . .

Dave
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post #13 of 25 Old 12-17-2016 Thread Starter
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Re: Rudder Shaft Seal

Dave, I have not found a traditional set of bearings inside the rudder log. I believe the "bearing" system used is simply the rubber inside the log. I appears to work very similar to the way a cutlass bearing works. Your question will make me dig a bit deeper but I do not think there will be actual bearings in the log.

I am not planning on changing the way the rudder is mounted in Hush. Aside from some very minimal wear, the rudder shaft looks perfect.

Indecision may or may not be my problem.
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post #14 of 25 Old 12-17-2016 Thread Starter
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Re: Rudder Shaft Seal

Dave, Thanks for the info....I plan on using axle grease on the gudgeon and the shaft. I have been using Sika Flex on my projects and like the results. After removing a transducer, I decided that I will NEVER use 3M 5200. Mechanics and builders that use that stuff never consider having to take something apart.

Sorry to hear you had second thoughts....I expect when the time comes for us to sell Hush, it will be painful.

Indecision may or may not be my problem.
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post #15 of 25 Old 12-17-2016
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Re: Rudder Shaft Seal

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Originally Posted by knuterikt View Post
Good article on the subject here Sealing systems
Main page here Jefa Rudder bearings
The vid of the bellows blowing up is probably the scariest thing I have ever seen advertised for use on a Boat.
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post #16 of 25 Old 12-17-2016
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Re: Rudder Shaft Seal

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The vid of the bellows blowing up is probably the scariest thing I have ever seen advertised for use on a Boat.
You sail at 30 knots regularly?
I have changed to this gaiter on my boat, much better than the original design.
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post #17 of 25 Old 12-18-2016
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Re: Rudder Shaft Seal

Our 1980 C37 may be different from your boat, but regarding the rudder shaft seal, we repacked ours about 15 years ago in SD on the way to Mexico with the PTFE flax packing. We also replaced the bolts which were deteriorated. No problems since.

When we dropped the rudder in La Paz I talked to Don Kohlmann, then owner of PSC, and he recommended an Orcot thrust washer below and above the rudder which he sold us. We couldn't fit both so just put the one in the gudgeon for the shaft to sit on. Note, this is the same material for the upper bearing we put in place when we converted to tiller.

There is a thread about all this. Search for: Crealock 37 Rudder maintenance

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John Newcomer
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1980 C37 Yawl
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post #18 of 25 Old 12-18-2016
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Re: Rudder Shaft Seal

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Originally Posted by knuterikt View Post
You sail at 30 knots regularly?
I have changed to this gaiter on my boat, much better than the original design.
No i'd like to but bought the wrong Boat for that. Is the demonstration in the Vid an example of the strength of this bellows or an actual application? If one actually blew up like that in service I stand behind my comments. Surely yours wont do that.
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post #19 of 25 Old 12-23-2016 Thread Starter
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Re: Rudder Shaft Seal

Help!!! My yesterday my mechanic and I were working to put the rudder back in after replacing the prop shaft and putting a dripless seal on. The old rudder post packing had leaked over the years and was taken apart. I am not sure but it appeared as though he installed 5/16 packing x 3 strands into the stuffing box. I noticed that the new stuffing was not flush and without compression would not mesh against the 2 and 3/8 inch rudder post. The rudder was lifted into place and and the stuffing box tightened. I have what appears to be about a 1/16 inch amount of adjustment left and the rudder does not seem to feel as though there is any friction being caused by the packing. Is this right and is the size packing used 5/16 inch???? I am supposed to drop the boat into the water for a sea trial tomorrow and am worried that all the work done will have to be done over. My mechanic doesn't seem too worried.

Indecision may or may not be my problem.
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post #20 of 25 Old 12-24-2016
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Re: Rudder Shaft Seal

We dropped the rudder last year on our 1992 PSC 34 (wheel steering) to replace the prop shaft and cutless bearing. We also did some minor repair work around the upper end of the rudder shaft. We removed and cleaned the rudder shaft stuffing box at the same time. Ours was an Edson unit that takes a 3/8" packing. It was in good shape but we did replace the three stainless steel bolts that compress the packing with silicon bronze bolts to match the stuffing box material.

Our rudder shaft had plastic (Delrin?) washers at both the top (between rudder and hull opening) and bottom (between rudder and gudgeon.) The bottom was worn more than the top, as might be expected. We obtained new washers from PSC - they were fairly expensive but were machined to fit exactly. Each is about 1/4" thick. After reassembly with the new washers there was only about 1/16" of play between the top of the rudder and the hull. Rudder movement is now a little stiffer than before but is very smooth. Alignment of rudder and gudgeon was not an issue on reassembly and there was little noticeable wear on the gudgeon. We did fill the gudgeon recess with grease as recommended. We also used Sikaflex 291 to bed the gudgeon, as recommended by Thumper at PSC.
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