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post #11 of 22 Old 09-06-2018 Thread Starter
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Re: Slow leak?

Bill,

That's a lot more condensation than we ever get. No condensation on the walls or portholes. The v-berth is pretty bad, but there is also quite a bit on the quarter-berth wall. Maybe it's the difference in water temperature. It's warm outside, but the water is cold.

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post #12 of 22 Old 09-07-2018
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Re: Slow leak?

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Originally Posted by jvlassak View Post
That's what happened a couple of years ago - except, it wasn't the power inlet, but the stern rail. That leak rotted out part of the ceiling panel before I discovered it. I'll have to keep looking, I guess. At the same time, there is a lot of condensation on the bulkhead and I keep wondering if that might not be the cause. Have you noticed similar condensation on yours?
I haven't had that problem, thankfully. But I'm in Cleveland and while it's humid, we don't have extreme levels of humidity coupled with cool air. In Cleveland, if it's that humid, it's usually turns to snow.

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post #13 of 22 Old 11-05-2018
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Re: Slow leak?

If you have wheel steering, you may want to take a look at the rudder post packing. Especially when motoring, the stern squats and if you have leaky packing you can get an appreciable amount of water near the tube and quadrant. Hope this helps. If it is the packing, you will have to drop the rudder to fix the problem. Of course that will present challenges of its own.

Indecision may or may not be my problem.
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post #14 of 22 Old 11-05-2018 Thread Starter
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Re: Slow leak?

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If you have wheel steering, you may want to take a look at the rudder post packing. Especially when motoring, the stern squats and if you have leaky packing you can get an appreciable amount of water near the tube and quadrant. Hope this helps. If it is the packing, you will have to drop the rudder to fix the problem. Of course that will present challenges of its own.
Thanks, I still haven't found the problem. I don't think it is the rudder post packing, but I can't completely rule it out. I may have to replace the cutlass bearing soon, and if I need to drop the rudder at that time, I'll definitely change the packing.


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post #15 of 22 Old 11-05-2018
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Re: Slow leak?

This fall I discovered a leak in a very peculiar location. Shiva's only had a leak at a chain plate, a leaking water heater... and water which seems to get in from the cockpit area ending up in the engine room under the prop shaft. The later one was / is very hard to trace.

If you can taste the water to see if it is salt or fresh... assuming your boat is in salt water. My leaks are fresh so it's rain water or water from the plumbing system. That I can tell if the pump will cycle on when no fixture is used. The leak may be a loose hose clamp.

Anyway my new leak which never appeared before is likely from a pad eye which needs to be re bedded or some other "thing" which is attached ABOVE the leak locations... but at the deck and structure pitch aft it may be come from something not in the very close vicinity. It exits in a strange place where the fibreglas liner has some penetrations for attachment of some joinery. It's a small leak but surprised me.

water in the engine bilge is the final destination... and it's hard to know the path it took to get there.

Try to completely dry everything and go at your boat with a hose and see if the leak appears. The do it again and focus your deluge on one area at a time to localize the area giving you the problem... that is if all paths lead to the same low point in the boat.

I know that there is a small leak in the hot water tank which drains to the engine bilge and causes the pressure pump to cycle on. by isolating the hot water tank I was able to determine it has some leak or a hose connection I can't see.

Fixing is often less a problem than finding what to fix in the leak universe.

pay attention... someone's life depends on it
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Re: Slow leak?

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Fixing is often less a problem than finding what to fix in the leak universe.
So true...


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post #17 of 22 Old 11-05-2018
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Re: Slow leak?

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Originally Posted by jvlassak View Post
Thanks, I still haven't found the problem. I don't think it is the rudder post packing, but I can't completely rule it out. I may have to replace the cutlass bearing soon, and if I need to drop the rudder at that time, I'll definitely change the packing.
If your PSC34 is set up like mine, you don't have to drop the rudder to replace the rudder post packing. Still, it's a PITA. You probably will have to remove the quadrant. However, that may vary depending on how the top ring on the packing gland is held in place. If I remember correctly, some are threaded on. Mine has three bolts, so to remove those, the quadrant had to come off (at least it had to be split and left laying in two pieces to the side).

I also recall reading that some have had success with removing the cutlass bearing without dropping the rudder. Given the typical cutlass bearing, I think that may be less likely in your case.

Good luck.

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post #18 of 22 Old 11-06-2018
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Re: Slow leak?

If you can taste the water to see if it is salt or fresh... assuming your boat is in salt water.

I had to smile when I read this. I have a slow leak which I think is around the propeller shaft, but I can't track it down.

I have thought about tasting the water, but just have not worked up the nerve yet!

regards charlie
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Re: Slow leak?

Brace yer loins, lad. Just be glad the leak isn't under the head.
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Re: Slow leak?

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Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
.....I have thought about tasting the water, but just have not worked up the nerve yet!....
I agree and limit the exposure. I wash my hands, dip a finger and touch the end of my tongue. Then do my best to spit it out and rinse away any residue.

Salt is typically very easy to identify. Although, cleaning chemicals is often what I sense and that causes more of the concern you have. Not to be ingested.

Some say you can use a cheap TDS (total dissolved solids) meter, as salt will have a substantially higher reading. Unfortunately, I don't know what is high. The meters are $10 and like large pens, with two electrical probes that must actually be testing conductivity.


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