Removing Lifeline Stanchion Bases - SailNet Community
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 10 Old 08-26-2008 Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 94
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 14
Removing Lifeline Stanchion Bases

Several of my lifeline stanchion bases are cracked towards the bow end of the boat. The big screws holding the stanchion bases to the boat have slot type heads, which are easy to strip. The screws are oriented horizontally and the cabin wall is fairly close to the screw heads. Access is difficult. I would like to pull the cracked bases and have new bases fabricated, but am nervous about stripping the heads of the screws. It would be hard to get an impact driver to work in the confined space. Any ideas on methodology? If they strip, I can pull the bases off over the stripped end of the screw and try to turn the screw out with vice grips.....

S/V Freyja
Passport 40
Hull #49
mightyhorton is offline  
Sponsored Links
post #2 of 10 Old 09-01-2008
Join Date: Apr 2000
Posts: 1
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 0
Can you get a 90 impact driver socket on it? If you use a screwdriver, be sure to use a perfectly fitting slot head. Perhaps vice grips for torque. With a short enough screwdriver, you might get a hammer, too. It might be a two-person operation. While protecting that beautiful teak, some liquid wrench product might help, too.

If/when you get it done, let us know.
aksail is offline  
post #3 of 10 Old 09-02-2008
Senior Member
Freesail99's Avatar
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 4,507
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 15
Send a message via Yahoo to Freesail99
Chances are very likely that those screws are really bolts with machine heads. Check under the deck for the nuts. On my boat it was a two person job.

S/V Scheherazade
I had a dream, I was sailing, I was happy, I was even smiling. Then I looked down and saw that I was on a multi-hull and woke up suddenly in a cold sweat.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Freesail99 is offline  
post #4 of 10 Old 09-02-2008 Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 94
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 14
aksail, what the heck is a 90 degree impact driver? does home depot sell 'em? I was going to try the perfectly fitting slot head with vice grip trick but thought I'd ask the forum first to see if there were any magic tricks.....

and freesail99 these bolts penetrate horizontally into, and terminate in, a little solid fiberglass wall that comes up from the deck and on which the cap rail sits, not vertically through the deck, which unfortunately means no luck on finding some nuts nicely exposed under the deck.

thanks to both of you.
mightyhorton is offline  
post #5 of 10 Old 11-06-2008
telekitr's Avatar
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 49
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 0
The builders of our boat(I have#66) have sunk 1/4" steel or iron plates behind all of the bolts for not only your stanchions but anything that appears to be thru bolted. These plates are drilled and tapped to accomodate the bolts. I used heat, manual impact driver with a perfect fitting slotted bit, penetrating oil and a ton of patience. It is a challenge to get these out. When I go to replace the bolts, I will likely move the bases forward by 1/2 -3/4" and just redrill and tap into clean steel......I don't think that moving everything forward by this amound will make any difference in the big picture. I have basically removed everything from the decks for repainting. Teak decks are gone too!!!

S/V Iemanja on Lake Champlain (for now..)
Burlington Vermont
telekitr is offline  
post #6 of 10 Old 11-10-2008
Senior Member
Capnblu's Avatar
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Squamish
Posts: 660
Thanks: 0
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Rep Power: 15
Have a helper hold onto the large screwdriver on deck with a vicegrip, loosen the not from below slowly so your helper can maintain his grip. Dont try to turn out the screw from above as you will be trying to turn the bedding compound, lockwasher, rust, garbage, etc. Once you have removed the the nuts from below, use an extension from your socket set, and place the female end onto the protruding screw/bolt, and tap it up until you can grab ahold with a plyer ot vicegrip. Then get yourself a guitar string and fabricate two handles and use it to cut the bedding from under the stansion base.
Capnblu is offline  
post #7 of 10 Old 11-11-2008
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 2
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 0
I had to remove same bolts in a recent refit. yes there are plates behind that the bolts screw into. we had a targa made and fitted. trades guys had a spray can of a fluid that froze the bolt shrinking it and removed 12 bolts with out stripping one. cannotremember the name, find a good fitting shop and hey may be able to help
SV Freycinet P40
DJCalvert is offline  
post #8 of 10 Old 11-17-2008
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 15
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 0

I believe your idea of stripping off the heads and then going after the screw with vice grips is your only option. That's what I ended up doing on one of my stanchions.

No other creative ideas.

Good luck.
winethief is offline  
post #9 of 10 Old 12-07-2008 Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 94
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 14
Interesting to know about the steel plates. The freezing trick sounds really neat, will check around to see if anybody knows what it is, or maybe will post into the general forum, as other owners of other types of boats have probably had the same issue, eh?
mightyhorton is offline  
post #10 of 10 Old 04-30-2016
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Charleston, SC
Posts: 3
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 0
Re: Removing Lifeline Stanchion Bases

my irwin 35's stanchion bolts are not accessible from inside the boat because the stanchions were installed before the deck was mounted to the hull. What is the best way to remove the stanchion.
fredplux is offline  

Quick Reply

By choosing to post the reply above you agree to the rules you agreed to when joining Sailnet.
Click Here to view those rules.

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the SailNet Community forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
Please note: After entering 3 characters a list of Usernames already in use will appear and the list will disappear once a valid Username is entered.

User Name:
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Wanted: Stanchion bases JimPendoley Gear & Maintenance 6 03-26-2012 03:43 PM
Painting stanchion bases, advice? johnnyandjebus Gear & Maintenance 5 07-03-2011 12:46 PM
Stanchion bases bedding/gasket Shortman Gear & Maintenance 2 02-13-2011 01:57 PM
Toerail-mounted stanchion bases ChetBridgeman Gear & Maintenance 3 06-17-2009 12:58 PM
Looking for Lifeline Stanchion Bases--Challenger 40 SuzySailor Gear & Maintenance 6 11-16-2008 09:59 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome