SailNet Community banner
  • SailNet is a forum community dedicated to Sailing enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about sailing, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, repairs, reviews, maintenance, and more!

Amount of lead in fin keel of 1969 C&C 36 ft sailboat

5K views 21 replies 12 participants last post by  Wwp-19 
#1 ·
Does anyone know how I can find out how much lead (approx) is in the keel of a 36 ft C&C sailboat built in 1969. My sailboat needs to be disposed of and I'm hoping I can recoup some of my expenses by selling the lead. It is has a fin keel and I've been told there is less lead in it than a fixed keel. Is there anywhere online I can go online to get this kind of information?
 
#9 ·
C&C (the boat builder) did not build a 36 footer in 1969. C&C the designers had three designs in production that were between 34 and 36 feet: Invader (3,000 lbs lead ballast), Redwing 35/C&C 35-1 (5000 lbs lead ballast), and the Frigate (5200 lbs lead ballast but part of that was in the centerboard).

For the record, a fin keel is fixed keel. If this is a centerboard boat, (i.e. what you may be thinking is the fin keel is able to be moved) then it is likely that there will be a higher ballast weight, but some of that weight will be in the keel and some in the centerboard.

Jeff
 
  • Like
Reactions: DickyBob
#10 ·
We read online about replacing keel bolts. I wonder how many sailors or actually doing this? And why? Is it a sort of routine thing... bolts need to be replaced after X years?

Are there signs that bolt(s) need to be replaced?

Are there catastrophic failures from bolt failures? How many?

Who has changed their keel bolts and what were the circumstances?

Is the keel bolt replacement thing more common for some manufacturers?
 
#14 ·
Depends on the style. Ours mates to the hull directly, creating a 90 degree joint. I fair that joint with 4200, like I was caulk a bathtub.

If a keel is mated to a stub, I would consider reefing a groove to apply this kind of replaceable sealant.

Much better than running the risk (eventuality) of water getting to the studs.
 
#21 ·
A follow up to post 11 with details:

1987 O'day 35: Keel repair was conducted in 2010. The repair consisted of replacing the 304 keel bolts with 316 stainless bolts which hold the keel to the keel stub. The keel is set on a 1/4"-3/8" bed of 3M 4200. The keel joint was then wrapped with a 6" skirt of fiberglass and epoxy. There is no groove in the stub or the keel, and the 4200 cannot be removed or replaced without first removing the skirt.

This joint does not leak, and the keel does not move. If the keel moved, the glass/epoxy skirt would crack. The only way that water has entered the bilge is via the mast, and when the raw water pump seal failed.

Maine Sail said it best in his post which I referenced in post 11;
IF YOUR KEEL BOLTS ARE LEAKING DO NOT JUST TORQUE THEM. DROP THE KEEL AND FIX IT BEFORE YOU NEED ALL NEW BOLTS!
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top