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post #11 of 17 Old 09-14-2018
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Re: Anchoring, two anchors, wind/tide shift

Your book looks interesting, will there be a Kindle edition?

Jim & Jacquelyn Eaton
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post #12 of 17 Old 09-14-2018
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Re: Anchoring, two anchors, wind/tide shift

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Your book looks interesting, will there be a Kindle edition?
Yes, that should also appear on Amazon very soon. I'm not sure of the timing.

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post #13 of 17 Old 09-15-2018
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Re: Anchoring, two anchors, wind/tide shift

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The most common reason to use two anchors is super soft mud. Otherwise, one anchor is enough and is a better choice..
pdqaltair, thanks for the complete explanation. Can you define super soft mud. Also, is the procedure for setting a Danforth different than for setting a Rocna?
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post #14 of 17 Old 09-15-2018
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Re: Anchoring, two anchors, wind/tide shift

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pdqaltair, thanks for the complete explanation. Can you define super soft mud. Also, is the procedure for setting a Danforth different than for setting a Rocna?
Bottom firmness. The US Navy used to have a procedure the used two men in a small boat, with a hammer and a blunt stake. Though primitive, it is a simple, practical description. I sometimes use the term very soft and supper soft interchangeably. I generally use a kayak paddle; if I can push the paddle into the mud more than a foot with one hand while sitting in the kayak, it is very soft.

• Very dense sand: more than 50 blows/foot.
• Sand: 25-50 blows/foot.
• Hard clay: more than 16 blows/foot.
• Consolidated mud/clay: 4-16 blows/foot.
• Soft mud: 2 blows/foot.
• Very soft mud/silt: you don't need the hammer.


Setting pivoting fluke anchors. There are two main differences:
1. Feel. Because of the way pivoting fluke anchors must rotate into position, it really helps to start with little more than hand pressure. Of course, this is true of all anchors. Then increase the pressure very gradually until the anchor is set.
2. In soft mud the chain must be very light and you can't wait to set it. The challenge is that the chain and shank are narrow and heavy and sink in the mud, and the flukes are light and float on top. This results in the tips pointing upwards, planing along, unable to set. Keeping the shank light and setting quickly helps. However, this initial set should be very light, just enough to catch the tips. Then wait 10-30 minutes for the mud to consolidate around the anchor before giving it a good power set.

Some suggest getting the initial grab at short scope Same idea, to lift the shank and keep it from sinking. But this is only to get that critical initial grab. Then set at long scope.

Sometimes pivoting fluke anchors just won't bite. They don't like weeds, rocks, trash, gravel, or very hard bottoms. Thus, they are not the best choice as a primary anchor in most areas. They are one of the best kedge and secondary anchors, by virtue of their great power in soft mud and light weight.

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Last edited by pdqaltair; 09-15-2018 at 09:33 AM.
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post #15 of 17 Old 09-16-2018
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Question Re: Anchoring, two anchors, wind/tide shift

I always thought that they used a "Lead Line".

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Originally Posted by pdqaltair View Post
Bottom firmness. The US Navy used to have a procedure the used two men in a small boat, with a hammer and a blunt stake. Though primitive, it is a simple, practical description. I sometimes use the term very soft and supper soft interchangeably. I generally use a kayak paddle; if I can push the paddle into the mud more than a foot with one hand while sitting in the kayak, it is very soft.

Very dense sand: more than 50 blows/foot.
Sand: 25-50 blows/foot.
Hard clay: more than 16 blows/foot.
Consolidated mud/clay: 4-16 blows/foot.
Soft mud: 2 blows/foot.
Very soft mud/silt: you don't need the hammer.


Setting pivoting fluke anchors. There are two main differences:
1. Feel. Because of the way pivoting fluke anchors must rotate into position, it really helps to start with little more than hand pressure. Of course, this is true of all anchors. Then increase the pressure very gradually until the anchor is set.
2. In soft mud the chain must be very light and you can't wait to set it. The challenge is that the chain and shank are narrow and heavy and sink in the mud, and the flukes are light and float on top. This results in the tips pointing upwards, planing along, unable to set. Keeping the shank light and setting quickly helps. However, this initial set should be very light, just enough to catch the tips. Then wait 10-30 minutes for the mud to consolidate around the anchor before giving it a good power set.

Some suggest getting the initial grab at short scope Same idea, to lift the shank and keep it from sinking. But this is only to get that critical initial grab. Then set at long scope.

Sometimes pivoting fluke anchors just won't bite. They don't like weeds, rocks, trash, gravel, or very hard bottoms. Thus, they are not the best choice as a primary anchor in most areas. They are one of the best kedge and secondary anchors, by virtue of their great power in soft mud and light weight.
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post #16 of 17 Old 09-16-2018
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Re: Anchoring, two anchors, wind/tide shift

i used no swivel. i placed one anchor from the direction of daily norm winds and currents and i placed one from the direction of wind in storms. that is about 90 degrees angle. normal conditions i swung to the norm anchor, aka number 1, and storms i swung to the number 2 aka storm direction anchor. never twisted around each other nor failed. both were danforth , oversized for boat. i remained in place for the winter in san diego one el nino thru storms and fun. no issue. 25 ft boat.


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post #17 of 17 Old 09-16-2018
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Re: Anchoring, two anchors, wind/tide shift

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Originally Posted by lho View Post
I always thought that they used a "Lead Line".
A lead line packed with grease will tell you the character of the top surface, and perhaps you can feel whether it is very hard or very soft. But that doesn't tell you about anything other than the top 0-3 inches.

A boat hook can work in very shallow water, perhaps less than 6 feet. But really, you need to get in the dinghy to tell much.

There has been some talk of using a fish finder (ultrasound), but that's trickier than it sounds. A bottom that is bumpy looks a lot like one that is soft.
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