I recently puchased a Hunter 25 for lake sailing and weekending. I have discovered the rudder post is highly corroded and bent I am looking for a used rudder if you are parting out or have a salvaged boat etc.
If you don't have any luck finding a used rudder for sale. You may need to do the parting out yourself. Buy the cheapest H25 you can, and pull everything of value off to sell. You will need to find a local way to dispose of the hull. All of this will be a total pain. You could also fork over a grand to hunterowners.com for a new one, or other sources. If you are adventurous, you may consider making one. Have the SS parts welded by a pro, and do the fiberglass yourself.
We had a H25 a few years ago. Our rudder broke off on the second day of a month long trip. No problem, added a tube inside the post, thru bolted the new tube to the rudder and old rudder post. the rudder post broke right where it exits the rudder. So, what I would do is cut the post where it exits the rudder, buy a length of stainless steel tube that fits inside the existing post plus a few feet and a length of tubing that matches the diameter of the current post. bolt together, epoxy over the holes and go sailing. The problem with buying a salvaged rudder is it might be in worst condition internally than yours. The rudder can be removed while the boat is in the water. Good luck and let us know how it went.
Thanks for the responses, I have considered a parts boat, but havent seen one close by and I do agree, there is no guarantee the rudder is any better. I am going to pull the rudder all the way, there seems to be some foam in the tube from above, Not sure if that is factory or evidence of repair, I like the Internal sleeve option, just dont want to overbuild it and rip the hull apart if I kiss the bottom myself in the future. What thickness of SS did you sleeve it with?
Well, I removed the rudder, it appears to have been repaired once before, but galvanized tubing was used and welded to the 2” stainless which created the appearance of corrosion. I braced the rudder and gave a good tug and sure enough it bent and cracked the weak area. I then cut it off flush with the top of the rudder. I can put in a sch 40 stainless pipe 1.3” diameter with good strength and alignment, or I can try to cut out all of the old galvanized metal and put in 1.66” dia sch 40 SS. I know I will ultimately be building a new rudder this winter if I cant find a good used one, but do either of these options sound like they would get me through the summer? the smaller dia SS would be very easy to do.
Get rid of the galvanized tubing. Put the stainless tubing in, drill thru the rudder, thru the two tubes (original post and new tube) and out the other side. Counter sink both sides of the hole to accommodate a bolt head and nut. I would do two holes, cover with epoxy and paint. While you have the rudder out, sand off the bottom paint, drill a hole in the bottom to look for water intrusion, and fix all cracks. There are plenty of videos and writeups on how to repair rudder cracks. Fix it right, fix it once.
Awesome, thanks for the advice, I was leaning that way but hoping I could get away with the faster. All good things take time, I will start the process of removing the galvanized tonight, hopefully can get it done it was epoxied in there. I dont have much evidence of cracking but will check for water damage and glass it all closed. Might even close the little keel smile too. I will keep you posted! Thanks for the good info, really appreciate this site.
Spent several hours last night cutting the old galvanized pipe out. Used a 12” metal sawsall to cut vertically in 4 quarters through bad pipe. Then was able to pry out the old. I ran a sanding wheel on an extension down the remaining 2” tube and polished it up. some of the material I brought out was moist so I think there has been some water intrusion no cracks or splits except one 1” crack at the very top which I dremeled to its base. Now for the next question: What should I use to fill the space between the two SS shafts i.d. of existing is 1.87” and o.d. of insert is 1.66” a thin layer of epoxy? I have some plans for centering but any suggestions will be taken as well! Regarding water intrusion any way to dry a rudder out?
So my 48 in 316 SS pipe and 36 in 304 SS pipe arrived today. (I know 304 isnt the best but was the only 2.00 dia steel I could find) I had previously dtilled out the glass filler and galvanized ruin left from the previous owners cheap repair that failed. $100 bucks for the two SS pipes and $45 in resin/ fiberglass. I was able to drill down the factory pipe until I reached dry material. That was 10 deep I went 2.5” more to make the lengths work out. using resin and glass I wrapped the 1.66 dia 316 SS with 5 layers then with a bit of a push n spin slid the pipe into my rudder. Then slid the 36” piece over top. perfect!! All hardened up and two through holes in rudder with SS 5/16 bolts countersunk. Hole at top for rudder mount and another to accept the tiller and to also allow the top piece to turn with the inner post. now to seal and epoxy the rudder. It looks and feels great. $150 dollar fix. If I really like this boat I can get a new rudder. but who knows. might not need one. overbuilt? should I worry now about rudder strike ripping the hull or will the fiberglass “sleeve” give just enough?
I do have a little play and have read about West epoxy fix but I think I like the milk jug idea! replaceable and cheap! I will also cut a doughnut piece for under the bearing collar and see how it holds up there as well! Thanks.