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My rigger told me that Navtec recommends that the ends be re headed every ten years. I had it done because I had no idea if it has ever been done. Sounds like you have a very solid boat!
 

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Spider cracking in gell-coat is a natural responce to a less stiffer material or more brittle material than the fiber glass matting below, flexing in a stress full enviroment. It dosent take away from the strenght oh the hull or deck.
 

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$7800
 

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That's rod rigging though. Wire would be substantially cheaper.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Hey guys closed on slapshot yesterday. Thanks for the all great advice. I think I'll def look into some maintenance on the rod rigging. The boat has always been in fresh water, guessing that environment is easier on the rigging...?
 

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Thats so great...another 35 MKIII owner Congrats

Definately 28 years on a raced boat...no matter fresh water or not...you are tempting fatigue. Check wire replacement vs rod rigging. I know its substantailly cheaper

dave
 

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Congrats! Hope you enjoy her in good health and we want to see pictures!

What was the closing price on her? Anything you need to fix right away?

Thanks
-T
 

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You will also want to watch for damage from mast pumping. This is a known problem in this model as well as my 36. It is most noticable at the dock with the wind abeam. You will also want to check the holding tank outlet. This model has a tendancy to not draw enough air in when you are pumping out. This causes the outlet to flex and crack the tank. I solved the issue by installing a second 1/2" air intake into the tank.

I sailed by 36 on Superior and well know as a great light air boat. But it is also great in the heavy stuff. I sailed mine with a double reef main and a reef in a 105 in 40 knots and the boat handled it with no problem.
 

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With the correct tension on your backstay adjuster and the correct rake this wont be a problem.

I didnt realize that there was a problem with the tank vent. Never affected our boat. However if you should ever redo your tank I would suggest you use nothing less than a 3/4 line vent. The more air in the holding tank the more good bacteria the less the smell. Also helps to only use fresh water also

Dave
 

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Just been reading this thread.
I have just aquired a C&C 35 III.
I have a few issues to take care of.
A leak at the edson steering pedestal, a leak by the port side window. Mosture meater read high in a few areas of deck but surveyor says not soft. needs sealed and dried recommended drilling. has any one tried this
 

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Congrats on the new boat. Window leaks are common on our C&C's and there is a definate procedure for replacement. South Shore Yachst has a lot of the older C&C parts also.

As far as the pedestal leak, what exactly is leaking. Is the floor soft? This also goes for the decks. Our boats are alol blasa cored at least to the waterline, some all the way. If water intrudes it can wet and destroy the core requiring complete replacement of the area in the worst case scenario. First thing is to identify the area which is wet and also the reason. Then to see the level of repair. Some are easy quick fixes like drying out or digging out the core and refilling with epoxy. Some may require a cut out and reglassing, depends on how much the area is affected. Hopefullu you areas are not in load bearing areas such as chainplates.

In any event it is imperative that all thru deck/ hulkl ntrustions be checked and sealed corrrectly and maintain their integrity.

I also suggest you join the C&C owners group

C&C Yachts - C&C Photo Album & Resource Center

You have a great boat (obviously I am prejudiced as I own a C&C 35MKIII also)...fast and comfortable to cruise with and see was initially made well. It up to the owner to mainatain that. Post some pictures when you get a chance of her and affected areas.

Dave
 

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My guess is that area under the pedestal is plywood core. The rest of the cockpit is mostly balsa core. Lean heavily against the pedestal. If the sole flexes your core is likely shot. See attached picks of the core fix on my 29-2. If the plywood is wet then drilling hole/epoxy fill won't work. The plywood holds water and it has no way to get out. The plywood is shot. solid glass area under pedestal and rudder post is now 1-1/2" glass. No water problems anymore and a really solid pedestal. Well worth the $2500 it cost to have it done.
 

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I was there with surveyor and pedestal didn't move or flex. the hammer sounded solid. but drips down onto fuel tank. 2500 dollar repair a bit scary.
getting a rig survey as well insurance require. looks to be all good but you cant tell about the ends surveyor recomended renewing the ends of the rods.
there is a few other odd anoyances. hose's ect.
hope to get her ready for a trip up the coast this spring.
 

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Good advice the ends of the rods. Propably original and 29 years old. Should be done every 10 years. See if you can find where the water is getting in.

Dave
 

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The floor around the pedestal is very thick. I hope you don't have a major repair. You should be able to see the pedestal bolts and the cutout for the cables from below.

I love my 35/3. I second Chef's recommendation that you join the c&c group. They know these boats inside and out - literally.
 

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The floor around the pedestal is very thick. I hope you don't have a major repair. You should be able to see the pedestal bolts and the cutout for the cables from below.

I love my 35/3. I second Chef's recommendation that you join the c&c group. They know these boats inside and out - literally.
J is right. The floor there is over 2 inches thick there as I have bored through it and installed an alternate SS tube on feet for additional electronics wires which would not fit into my SS pedestal gaurd for the Radar, Autopilot, and Chartplotter. Maybe there is a leak on the bolts, or the seal under the pedestal,

The pedestal is located aft of the fuel tank. Is that where the leak is?
 
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