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1st big project, bronze thru-hull

5120 Views 37 Replies 16 Participants Last post by  Minnesail
My first big project on my little boat!

The Catalina 22 was built with a garden-hose style valve glassed directly to the hull for the sink and cockpit drain. I'm replacing it with a bronze thru-hull.

This might be mass overkill for a tiny boat that will be sailing on a tiny lake, but one of my goals with this boat is to learn how to do things The Right Way so I'll have the experience for future, larger boats.

So I've got a printout of Maine Sail's instructions, and a big pile of 1" bronze hardware:

Any tips, tricks, or advice?
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There is a fiberglass product I know as 'strong-back' which I believe is 'structural fiberglass' at McMaster-Carr ( you can get that and fabricate a backing plate for yourself. You may be able to buy something like you want at McMaster, whether or not fiberglass
Are you talking about G10 (Garolite)? I used that for my thru-hulls; also, got it from McMaster-Carr. Used West Systems 404 mixed into epoxy for the adhesive to the hull. I think that is what people used on other threads on this topic.

Maybe this will be useful: I have used G10 for a number of different things. It is really a hard material. I use a saber saw with fine teeth to rough cut rounded shapes. Then do final shaping using either a sanding disc on the table saw or sanding attachment on the angle grinder. This makes a lot of dust. The dust will coat everything in the shop. I do it outside if using the angle grinder. I rigged up a vacuum attachment for the table saw.

When cutting G-10 on the table saw, I buy cheap plywood blades (fine spaced teeth). They don't last too long. But normally, there are not very many cuts to make.
I do a rough cut with the sabre saw...outside the line. Then finish shaping by sanding with the tools mentioned above.

I've used the method you mentioned too and work just fine. The really big cutters get pretty expensive, but not that bad. Makes it an easier, less messy job too.
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