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I used G10 for the base too. I didn't use studs, nor did I use bolts through the hull.

I drilled through the bolt holes, then drilled a little larger area for the bolt heads so they would be recessed into the G10 plate.

Next time I haul out, I will have 6 or 7 more to replace and plan to install the same way. MaineSail's instructions were great help.
The removable studs are by design and there for a reason. Try to get a flange off that has been bedded and you will invariably damage the bolts/studs. You usually need to pry it at an angle and with studs in place that does not work, BTDT... If they can't be double nutted, removed and replaced you're pretty much going to need to cut the whole plate out.. Use tapped studs NOT captive bolts.... Each 5/16" stud, into just 1/2" fiberglass far exceeds ABYC strength standards and you have three!
 

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My first big project on my little boat!

The Catalina 22 was built with a garden-hose style valve glassed directly to the hull for the sink and cockpit drain. I'm replacing it with a bronze thru-hull.

This might be mass overkill for a tiny boat that will be sailing on a tiny lake, but one of my goals with this boat is to learn how to do things The Right Way so I'll have the experience for future, larger boats.

So I've got a printout of Maine Sail's instructions, and a big pile of 1" bronze hardware:



Any tips, tricks, or advice?
Decouple the tee from the valve with a length of hose that gets it above static waterline. If it is in a safe location that would be okay but best to come off the valve with hose, then to the tee...
 

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On very bottom of the picture is picture of bronze thru-hull with straight thread.
Usually nut of some sort tightens(this is fancy one) it from the inside. This is all covered with lot of some kind glue to make permanent seal. Then comes ball valve with tapered pipe thread on both side. Question is how this can work straight thread and pipe thread?
It is not supposed to work but MANY builders simply choose to IGNORE the safety standards and connect NPT valves to NPS thru-hull fittings..

The proper method, is as shown, with a proper flanged seacock or a Groco flanged adapter which has NPS into the bottom and NPT threads on the top...
 
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