SailNet Community banner

1881 - 1896 of 1896 Posts

·
Registered
Tartan 37
Joined
·
5,217 Posts
Bubble wrapped my ports yesterday... huge difference in heat retention and no sweating inside. Yay.

About 30' of double sided tape and a roll of bubble wrap = $30... took about an hour.

Doesn't look great but it's doing the job :)

Inside view


Outside view


From afar you really cant tell... right? LOL


Funny... I posted a question on Facebooks Liveaboard Sailors and got mixed thoughts on putting it outsude or inside... after a glass of wine and long debate with myself... well as you see I went with your suggestion Dave ;)

Next... I did the hatches and a few other things with the leftovers. Last night was toasty with only one heater vs. two prior.

Soon, new headliner with some better insulation. Then I should be complete.

Last year I did all the lockers with foam board and they remained dry, no sweating all winter. Love it.

Cheers mates.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
264 Posts
Merry Christmas, Happy Holidays and Happy New Year to all. And Thanks. I find this thread to be a great source of advice, information and support. We'd hoped to get going exploring the Chesapeake this year but thanks to a guy ramming the stern and some other issues, the boat spent much of the sailing season being repaired. Hopefully, we can really get out there in 2017! I've always found people here ready to share experience and help. Thanks!
 

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
11,862 Posts
Happy Chanukah and Merry Christmas to all my friends on Sailnet both here and the Chesapeake and the Long Island Sound.

Also to Leslie and Clay traveling south
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
69 Posts
"2016 Sailing Season on the Chesapeake" is officially closed for me - I removed all the sails yesterday. Sea Dragon will be hauled this week or next. Once hauled, I will remove cushions, gear, and perishables before starting a few winter projects.

2016 was another good season on the bay for me. A special "thank you" goes out to CHESSS and it members for season of great sailing, comradery, and challenges.

Come on Spring!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Garner
 

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
11,862 Posts
I was able to get out and catch a few zephyrs on Christmas Day when it was great and yesterday afternoon when it was fantastic.

I think a thread of Glorious Little Sails, the opposite of Big Freakin' Sails, needs to be started:

12 25 2016 sail - YouTube

as the aussies say Good on ya, mate
 

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
11,862 Posts
Spent the day with my wife unbolting our 34 year old Simpson Lawrence SeaTiger 555 manual windlass from it position on Haleakulas bow.
After crawling under all the canvas to reach it , we used two ratchet wrenches to take its bolts on. Surprising they came loose right away.

This windlass has been a beast and is very uncomplicated and works well in all conditions. It's double action with a long bar so you can stand and ratchet up the anchor easily. One hand on the bar, the other on the washdown sprayer. It comes at the perfect rate to clean the chain.
No worries about solenoid, batteries, heavy wire, Many cruiser use it still and it's resale vLue 33 years later is still over $500-$1000 .

Hoping to take it apart and soak the gears. And innards. After that it gets packed with lanolin and then resealed for another 30 years. Great design.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,266 Posts
Dish soap works okay if you move quickly. As the liquid evaporates it does get gluey. Is that a word?

You can get hose lube from auto parts stores that works pretty well.

Twisting a hose to get it off is common but it can be rough on the hose, reducing it's structural integrity. If you do twist a hose to get it off you should inspect the inside of the hose to see if it has been damaged.

A hair dryer is better than nothing but a heat gun will be more effective. Although the power of a heat gun will only be a bit greater the output air is concentrated as opposed to a hair dryer that tends to be designed to disperse the air over a broader area. If you get a 2000 watt heat gun you'll need a 20 amp (v. 15 amp) outlet.

For particularly stiff hoses (sanitation and exhaust in particular) that don't just go on I do several things. First I heat water and soak the end of the hose in a bucket of the hot water. This is a good time for a cup of tea. *grin* Put hose lube on the nipple, and with the hose end in one hand and the heat gun in the other press into place. This can be problematic when you don't have room for both hands and arms and your head. *sigh* I reiterate my thought for @TakeFive to cut an access from above.
I'm just getting back to this hose replacement topic after other fixes took on higher priority.

One of the problems with getting the hose on is that it's 5/8" ID hose onto a 3/4" barb. You can see that the hose is badly stretched out (and possibly fibers inside torn), yet it's still very difficult to get it on. Because of the possible damage, I blindly bought another 2' section of 5/8" ID hose. But before I fight to get this back on, is there a reason why I need to force a 5/8" hose over a 3/4" barb? Doesn't a 3/4" ID hose, properly clamped to a 3/4" barb, seal up just fine? I'll have to measure the barb at the other end (Mermaid condensator venturi device), but for now I need to wonder what benefit is provided by putting a too-small hose on a too-large barb?
 
1881 - 1896 of 1896 Posts
Top