[christian.hess]

what kind of exhaust does it have? or where does the fumes go? good flow?

did yo check that the cylinder head for warpage?

what 3.3 is it? evinrude?

 

[christian.hess]

btw 2 hours is a long time running....so if its doing it on one circuit of the carb faster might be right you might be a bit lean there or something is still plugged up

 

[christian.hess]

Changed crankcase oil AND new 50/1 gas mixture? Is this a 2-stroke or 4-stroke engine?

is this a serious question? or a mistake?

 

[christian.hess]

The exaust just goes down the shaft and out into the water. When I rev in idle the exaust increases significantly and seems ok.

Yep that's the engine. 2 Stroke. Sorry for leaving it out.

Yes I'm pretty positive I checked that jet. It's the one that goes down through the donut float and is what sucks gas up and into the engine right? The little cup shaped nozzle on the end screws off and I checked it.

Again the carb is basically brand new and looks it. I havn't found anything that looks wrong with it whatsoever and have now blown carb cleaner through everything. The actual problem it had was with the float switch, which wasn't closing.

That does seem to finally be fixed. First I bent the float arms a bit so it would close the valve with more force. Then after my throttle problems I double checked the height of the arms against the service manual and ended up bending them back a bit.

I could believe that if not enough gas was in the bowl it might struggle at higher loads, but now it's behaved identically with two different adjustments of these arms.

I did make an adjustment to the clip on carb needle which sets rich/lean. It was on the 3rd setting (rich I think) instead of the factory suggested 2nd setting. This was before my 2 hour trip but after I had done some test runs and noticed that the engine might not be running at full power. This adjustment didn't seem to produce any difference.

ok most carbs have a specific float height...usually parallel to the float bowl edge...
also did you move the clip up or down...if the clip goes up effectively you are leaning out the mix if you go all the way down it will allow max fuel flow

so your stalling out at this point in time can be due to either an extreme lean condition or a too rich condition..both can stall out an engine...

a lean condition will usually be heard by revs hanging then dying
an overly rich condition will stall out after doing an idle skip if you will from full throttle in other words it will dip then go back up and then die...

this is in general terms...which one are you experiencing? when you give it full throttle can you acheive it sometime or will it always die before? or can it run at full throttle a bit then die out?

do you have a shop manual or better pics so we can see?

you might be starving the carb of fuel when giving it full throttle...regarding the float level tab you bent

start always and diagnose one thing at a time

only do ONE adjustment at a time...

once you do a jet change, change float level and mess with the needle there is no way you can find out where your problem is...

start with stock settings and adjust one thing at a time

cheers

 

[christian.hess]

sorry if Im not understanding is it cutting out at or around 1/4 throttle?

can you attain full throttle in gear at all?

have you verified the gear oil and that the prop spins well in gear?

next time try this cut off fuel...then whack the throttle...will it attain higher throttle?

if so its a classic flooding symptom caused by the bad float level...in other words you cant burn up the fuel fast enough...

lastly and this might be a pain you need more sparkplugs and use a new plug for each change...

make sure they arent completely fouled...when doing your tests...a fouled plug will stall out your engine too

 

[christian.hess]

oh which way did you move the clip? up or down...

at idle you are on idle jet, from 1/4 trhottle to 1/2 you are on needle and main jet or jet needle(depending on carb) and 1/2 to full you are on main jet

HOWEVER circuits overlap so its common to have even the idle and needle working at full trhottle so its paramount to have them as clean and in the correct position for all corcuits to work well and transition smoothly

it sounds to me like either you are flooding out the carb after idle because either the float level is bad, or you moved the needle to a too rich setting so what happens is you stall out.

last question is the stall out blubbery like the throttle feels like its stumbling and gurgling or does it just die out of nowehere

for example when you say you throttle up...when you do that slowly for it not to stall is the throttle smooth or does it feel sluggish?

if slughish, gurgling and blubbery you are way rich...if you are at a steady throttle and all of a sudden you die...its lean

again in general terms...

lastly you need to look at all gaskets to manifold, boot and bowl...an air leak will cause stalling out issues to

maybe when you took the carb apart and off...

cheers

 

[christian.hess]

yup in that diagram you have a fuel screw...again that should be around 2 or 3 turns out for most carbs...as a starting point whats yours at?

not to bug you but I didnt see on wether you went up or down on the needle clip...

any leaks at the head gasket area right now?

cheers

 

[christian.hess]

It stalls out at less than 1/4 throttle I'd say, but again, ONLY in gear.

So going into this I'd never taken an engine or a carb apart so I still may not know, but I'm pretty sure this just has a single jet in this carb (I posted the diagram earlier), and I'm 100% sure that the single jet is clear.

And I hear you with the float level but I went through that once where the carb literally was overflowing with gas because the float valve was never closing. Even in that scenario I could get the engine to run by cutting the fuel at the tank shutoff valve. That would get the engine running fine for 1-2 minutes while it ran off the bowl alone.

So I tried that again in my new situation and it made no difference. I cut the fuel at the tank and idled around, repeatedly raising the throttle to see if it would run, and it wouldn't. It stalls out every time I give it gas (in gear). Sometimes I can lower the throttle right back down to prevent the stall. When it does stall, it starts right back up first pull.

that would point out like faster says to either fuel starvation or an extremely rich condition

and also an air leak

if it floods out usually it takes many pulls to "clear" it out

keep trying

 

[christian.hess]

The screw in the side of the carb is the idle speed adjustment. It's not a nozzle or anything but it's like a stopper for the whole carb assembly that sets the lower bound of the throttle. Besides doing that, shouldn't have any other effect on performance.

I don't know how many turns it is, I just adjusted it until I liked the idle speed. Before adjusting it was a bit too fast.

No, please keep "bugging" me.

So I moved the clip from richer to leaner (notch 3 to notch 2). Per the service manual notch 2 is the factory standard. The manual said a classic case of too rich was losing power at 2/3 throttle, and since my engine seemed to be doing that, I moved the clip (this was before my current problem).

So it always starts first pull after stalling which makes it seem like it isn't flooding.

thats what I was commenting on...usually you get a fumbling gurgling sound when the engine is running to reach and very hard to attain if not impossible to attain full throttle

in BOLD that is often called a fuel screw, thats what I was saying...you must know what its set at...you will not idle well and it might be the big cause of trouble...

also your manual shold state how many turns for "normal" sea conditions...again as a starting point.

for your info fuel screws on 2 strokes carbs often richen up the mixture(more fuel per air particles) when turning the screw IN

on most 4 strokes the fuel screw or idle enrichment screw the opposite is true...OUT means more fuel.

so make sure by all means you count how many turns out you are

report back

I don't see any signs of head gasket leaks. No residue on the outside or anything. It looks fine.

thats what I was commenting on...usually you get a fumbling gurgling sound when the engine is running to rich and very hard to attain if not impossible to attain full throttle

thats why in gear its loaded more and when not in gear or neutral you can acheive full throttle

in BOLD that is often called a fuel screw, thats what I was saying...you must know what its set at...you will not idle well and it might be the big cause of trouble...

also your manual shold state how many turns for "normal" sea conditions...again as a starting point.

for your info fuel screws on 2 strokes carbs often richen up the mixture(more fuel per air particles) when turning the screw IN

on most 4 strokes the fuel screw or idle enrichment screw the opposite is true...OUT means more fuel.

so make sure by all means you count how many turns out you are

report back

I would put a new plug in after adjusting the idle speed adjustment and see if you see any improvement

if none of this improves(even leaning it out more on the needle) look at your plug cap, if it has a resistor and the condition of your coil

the shop manual should have the resistances the coil has

 

[christian.hess]

well thats good, so your carb has no fuel screw or lean rich adjustment anywhere?

I have an evinrude 3.3 and it has the exact same screw, probably same carb its spirng loaded its not a throttle arm stopper set screw but indeed a idle adjustment screw

parts #22 and #23 on your carb diagram

on many parts fiches they are simply called screws...I dont see a throttle arm stopper like you are talking about at least on my carb

from the looks if it these carbs are the exact same...