[UnionPacific]

Well, before I upgrade this fall to a chiller, I need to fix my current AC.

It is 16K I believe, and does not run.
I have checked the wires on the switches, all good.
I put a screwdriver on the top of the overtemp switch, bridged the connections, no luck.

The only bad looking item I found was the wire coming from the start cap to the motor. It was melted. This could have been because of the shoddy wiring at this marina that nearly burnt my boat down. So I was thinking I should perhaps replace the start cap?

 

[trantor12020]

worth a try ...if it does burn your boat down.

 

[UnionPacific]

Ah, I should have mentioned they moved me to better power, 120 volts now, not 96 volts

 

[Rockhopper]

Let me know if you need any help I'm a HVAC/R student. If you have a multimeter you can ohm the capacitor out to test it. Just in case you don't know do NOT touch the terminals or you might have a few choice words after the shock. Let me know though and I'll try to help you.

 

[capta]

You can change out parts one by one and you could get lucky, or you could waste a lot of money doing this. A professional will probably find the problem pretty quickly and perhaps his knowledge and experience will actually save you money. Your choice.

 

[UnionPacific]

You can change out parts one by one and you could get lucky, or you could waste a lot of money doing this. A professional will probably find the problem pretty quickly and perhaps his knowledge and experience will actually save you money. Your choice.

The start cap is an $18 part, a pro will be at least $100, If it is the compressor, then it does not matter.

 

[UnionPacific]

Let me know if you need any help I'm a HVAC/R student. If you have a multimeter you can ohm the capacitor out to test it. Just in case you don't know do NOT touch the terminals or you might have a few choice words after the shock. Let me know though and I'll try to help you.

Thank you, I had planned to, but I do not have a multimeter as mine was not waterproof that I brought from land.

 

[capta]

The start cap is an $18 part, a pro will be at least $100, If it is the compressor, then it does not matter.

Knowing why the cap burned is a lot more important to what you are doing than replacing the part. I've had up to 5 of those units on a boat and know them quite well, and have done repairs both ways. It's usually much cheaper, in the long run, in refer/ac work, to have a pro in than to have all the equipment, tools and gasses (never mind finding somewhere to store all that rarely used gear) to maintain and repair those systems. But as I said, your choice, you don't have to bite my head off.

 

[SchockT]

Capacitors are cheap and that one looks pretty sketchy with the corrosion. Quite often when they fail the top bulges a bit. Sometimes they blow their tops and spew their dielectric fluid everywhere, but I have never known one to start a fire. Regardless, just replace it, and eliminate that possibility.

As for the burnt staycon terminal, it was likely caused by a loose connection, and if the capacitor was faulty, the bad connection would get hotter as a result of the compressor drawing locked-rotor amperage.

I am curious, can you hear the compressor running, or trying to start? Does the compressor get hot after it has been energized for a while?

It is hard to do any real diagnosis without a multimeter. I think every boat owner should have one and learn how to use it!