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Those look a lot like the old NSA under sink filters you could buy for your home. Should be fine, but would recommend you put a good 5 micron filter in front of it, so that crap from the water system doesn't clog it up and gets caught in the 5 micron filter instead. Also, would recommend that you put that in-line with only the galley faucet, so that the volume of water going through it is lower, so it lasts longer.
 

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Don't pay more than you need to. We installed this last summer and it works great! Sequential filtering always works best so add a Britta or similar faucet mounted filter after the "whole house" filter.

For drinking water on board we use a GE whole house, cartridge style, water filter set up using this GE 1 Micron Drinking Water Carbon Replacement Filter - FXULC at The Home Depot and this GX1S01C - GE® Single Stage Drinking Water Filter - Features And Photos. It installs between the output of the pump and the fixtures and is very, very easy to do.

For added filtering we also have a Brita "On Tap" Faucet Water Filter System Only $25.49 faucet mounted filter in the galley on the faucet for double filtration. We drink right out of our 1979 tanks with this set up no problem!!

One thing about filters is you need to "exercise" your water system at a minimum weekly or the filters will go bad. I run the water for about a minute each time I'm on board and this keeps the filters fresh. We save a ton on bottled water by being able to drink right out of our tanks.

Location is behind the starboard settee.

A close up:


This photo was taken during winterization and the Brita was by-passed.
 

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Mainesail—

Glad you added the caption to the Brita photo...it would have looked really bad without an explanation...;)
 

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I dont see a number BUT it takes a .2 micron filter to stop bacteria
The filter is class 1 which means .5 - 1 micron in size. The $475.00 I saved over buying a Seagull IV (.1 -.4 micron) buys a LOT of cap fulls of bleach or water tank treatment which also kill the bacteria. I shock the system at the beginning of each season and add some treatment now and then..

We have been using this filter set up on numerous boats, no one has ever been sick and we use lots of water.

We had a Seagull on one boat and it plugged up quicker than you can imagine and the replacement filters were astronomically priced @ about $90.00 ea.. The GE filters when ordered on line are about $13.00-$15.00 and last a lot longer. Considering we've been using this type of set up now for just over eight years and consuming running thousands of gallons of water through them with no issues I think it's safe to say it works fairly well..
 

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MaineSail - I was hoping to get a .2 micron unit, which is what this 3M unit is for a lower price than a SeaGull. From what I understand, there is the possibility of contaminated water down south, and I don't want to take the risk. SD - I agree on doing the galley faucet only.
 

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If bacteria is really a concern, get a SteriPen type unit to disinfect the water with.

MaineSail - I was hoping to get a .2 micron unit, which is what this 3M unit is for a lower price than a SeaGull. From what I understand, there is the possibility of contaminated water down south, and I don't want to take the risk. SD - I agree on doing the galley faucet only.
 

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I take care of a pharmacutical DI water system and if you knock down the water in steps like 5 / .5 / .2 the .2 last forever and we just change them once a year becasue we have to

The 5 micron street water filters look like TURDS in 6 weeks and Long Island has pretty good water and if i was staying in this area i would not worry BUT in many places they get there drinking water from rivers and it is much more diffcult to clean up
 

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MaineSail - I was hoping to get a .2 micron unit, which is what this 3M unit is for a lower price than a SeaGull. From what I understand, there is the possibility of contaminated water down south, and I don't want to take the risk. SD - I agree on doing the galley faucet only.
That filter is a MUCH better deal than a SeaGull. I still personally would want to treat with a treatment to kill the bacteria and sequentially filter or pre-filter to the .2 micron filter with a sediment filter in the 2-5 micron range. My SeaGull plugged up very quickly. I could not find a price on the 3M cartridge?? If you are going to third worl countries a .2 micron is not a bad idea but filters of any kind should not sit without flow for long perids of time. Excercising your water filters is a must.

One thing to be concious of is the lingo use in the filtration industry. The nominal rating is .2 micron but that does not mean it catches 100% of all .2 micron sized particulate and they will pass larger particles than .2 micron. Though not a reall big deal I wish there were more disclosure about nominal ratings and what % of particles larger than .2 it actually passes? Is it 1%, 2% or 5%..

I still like a cap full of bleach or tank treatment every now and then just to be sure. If you don't do this the bacteria can begin to grow and then really plug up your filters fast. A filter does nothing to prevent bacterial growth inside the tanks or lines and it only removes what is there. Don't let it get there is my whole point. If your don't let bacteria grow or kill it as you add water to the tanks then you and your filtration system will be better off..
 

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just don't use bleach regularly if you have aluminum tanks...or you'll pay for it.
 

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Well


I would have a small 5 micron setup to use on the hose you fill your tanks with as when we treat CLEAN city water this is were the bulk of the dirt comes from

No matter how clear your water LOOKS you will be supprised when you start changing filters how dirty they get :eek:

Now even with a state of the art system with a BIG UV unit we still sanitize the system once a week with bleach BUT we also flush it out completely as there is a chlorinated water exposure and bladder cancer risk


With in the boat i would only try and filter the drinking water and would try and use a 1 or .5 to try and protect the final .2 micron most of the units will also remove the chlorine and take care of that issue


As mainsail says you need to keep the water moving even if you run the tap and put the water back into the tank
 

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It installs between the output of the pump and the fixtures .
This may be a stupid question but;

I am thinking about adding a filter to my Catalina 400.

Should one install the filter directly after the pump ( I have a small accumulator tank just after the filter) or just before the cold water faucet in the Galley?

1. Just after pump
This would mean that both hot and cold water would be filtered and water for both head faucets, showers and cockpit shower water would be filtered.

2. In the cold water line just before the galley faucet
This would mean that only the cold water in the galley faucet would be filtered and filtration would occur just before the faucet.

I am thinking option number two as the amount of filtered gallons would be reduced and the filter would last longer. I am also thinging that it would be enough to have drinkable, filtered water in the galley only (not heads)

Another question - there is limited space to install the filter - can the filter be mounted horizontally or does it have to mount vertically?

Cheers
 
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