[rbyham]

I see minor rust and hairline cracks at most of my swagged terminal ends but the 3/8 wire looks and feels good. What is the thinking of folks in terms of cutting swagged ends off and going mechanical (norsemen?) and making up any difference to turnbuckles with toggles? Turnbuckles are clearly fine. Whole rigging package is probably 20 years old but the wire looks good and the cost savings on just changing the bottom ends (versus change everything) would be significant. I will check the top swags in the process but they appear to be good probably because water runs down not up...

 

[overbored]

replace all wire and fittings at the same time. you don't even know expensive until you have to replace the whole rig because it came down. the wire gets work hardened over time from wind vibration and flexing. if the fittings are cracked due to corrosion so the wire is too.
Thick about sailing with the family aboard and you are think was changing just the fitting the right choice. Every time you look up at the rig you will be wondering

 

[paul323]

Hairline cracks means that you should replace all of the standing rigging immediately.

Consider it a red flashing light, with sirens going off.

I would hesitate to take the boat out if I saw hairline cracks - unless it was taking the boat to the yard - even then I would probably motor.

 

[Gaffrigsailor]

Once you get corrosion on stainless it's shot, the only way to fix it is to do it right from the beginning. get some stainless or galvanized wire and Norsemen fittings and do it yourself to save any money that you can if on a budget, in the mean time put up some false rigging to take pressure off the present rigging then you can do one line at a time. With a buddy's help and a bosun chair it should only take a day or so

 

[svHyLyte]

Wire is inexpensive. The major cost is in the end fittings that should all be replaced. Don't be penny wise and pound foolish, particularly on such a small boat.

 

[Rhapsody-NS27]

Replace it immediately, as mentioned above.

When I bought my boat, I knew I'd have to replace my rigging. It had Norseman fittings but the fittings and the wire all had rust all over them. I got new wire and Hi-Mod fittings and put everything together. It turned out much easier to do than I would have expected. on my 27' boat, it cost me just under $1500, but I knew confidant is my work. It's also good to know when it was last done instead of guessing.

 

[rbyham]

Sounds like consensus here ☺ I can't actually recall the last time I saw 5 people agree on anything on SN. So I guess it is on to the further question which I have begun to research via other threads. How does one replace rigging at where cost effectiveness is an issue.

 

[Faster]

Sounds like consensus here ☺ I can't actually recall the last time I saw 5 people agree on anything on SN. So I guess it is on to the further question which I have begun to research via other threads. How does one replace rigging at where cost effectiveness is an issue.

Why does one buy a boat if cost effectiveness is an issue??

You can save money by removing your own rigging, taking it to a rigger and have them reproduce it, then reinstall it yourself as well. This can be done wholesale if you take the mast down, or a piece or two at a time if you don't want to do that.

But to continue with cracked swages on 20+ yr old standing rigging is asking for a big oops.

I'd think you can get it all remade for somewhere around $1K if indeed your turnbuckles are OK - they may not be, btw.

Also - if your current turnbuckles are 'collapsed' ie - little room left to take up tension, then your wire has stretched over time, the rigger can shorten your new stays and shrouds to compensate. If you do drop the mast, that's a good time to see if your mast step has collapsed/sunken over time - a good time to fix that too.

 

[svHyLyte]

Sounds like consensus here ☺ I can't actually recall the last time I saw 5 people agree on anything on SN. So I guess it is on to the further question which I have begun to research via other threads. How does one replace rigging at where cost effectiveness is an issue.

By using your halyards to temporarily support the mast, you can remove one of the cap-stays to have two made up (they are--or should be--symmetrical so you only need one to have a pair made). Likewise the fore-n-aft lowers, one each at a time. With the masthead again temporarily supported with a halyard, the back-stay can be removed and a replacement made up. Most problematic will be the head-stay as you will have to remove it and the furling gear very carefully to avoid damaging the foils and then cut off one or the other end of the stay to slip it out of the foil assembly and have a replacement made up. To reassemble, you will need a mechanical end fitting such as a Norseman or Staylok and, if you have any question at all about your skills, it would be wise to have a qualified rigger do the replacement.

Before undertaking the foregoing, ensure that your turnbuckles and toggles are in good conditions with no warn pins or elongated pin-holes. If there is any question, replace the item. It is also wise to have matching turnbuckles and toggles on opposit sides--i.e. matched cap- and lowers. So, if one cap shroud turnbuckle is shot, unless you can obtain an exact replacement, replace both.

BTDT.... Takes a lot of trips up the mast. Eat your Wheaties!!!