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Ablative Paint Mix-N-Match

1845 Views 5 Replies 5 Participants Last post by tommays, Mar 16, 2009

DrB

Discussion Starter · Mar 16, 2009

It's that time of year ago here in New England, Spring Launch. Well almost.

Last season I used Micron 66 Ablative paint and it faired pretty well, but I used my boat a lot and most of it is gone. I had the boat in the water from May 1 to November 13th and probably sailed/motored her 1100 miles. I really like Micron 66 as when I pull the boat, the bottom is clean and growth free. Some boats that I have seen come out of my same area have hideous growth and barnacles.

Because of the uses and the minimal amount of ablative left, I just can't touch her up, so I will need to repaint her again. A gallon of this stuff (Micron 66) is expensive and just barey covers the bottom of my 33' boat (11' beam, deep fin, 28' waterline). The PO suggest that high waterflow areas such as the bow, water line, leading edge of the fin, skeg and entire rudder, should have and "extra coat" on it as they will wear fast.

Instead of buying anotyher quart of Micron 66, I want to buy an "inexpensive" ablative and use that as my high water flow "top coat".

I know that one can do with Like-Like chemsitries, i.e more fresh Micron 66 on top of fresh Micron 66, but what about say WM Ablative, or some other, on Fresh Micron 66? I know you can put different chemistry New ablative paint over older previous and spent paint, but a little unsure of the Fresh on Fresh effectiveness.

DrB

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jason3317

· #2 · Mar 16, 2009

Interlux Compatability Chart

This should answer most of your questions:

http://www.yachtpaint.com/Images/15_27607.pdf

You might need to dig a little deeper if you are going to use a private lable paint, such as West Marine brand.

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Brucerobs2

· #3 · Mar 16, 2009

You can...but

I wouldn't necessarily do that. The anti-fouling properties are only as good as the top layer of paint. It would be unfortunate to have the majority of your hull clean, and the leading edges growing a garden because you used the cheap ablative there. If you use it frequently, it might be fine though as any growth should slough off as long as they are compatible.

One of my doc mates used the cheaper WM ablative, and had HORRIBLE growth this past year (Chesapeake) with very regular use. In fairness, he'd had good luck with it previously but they changed the formula/ manufacturer last year apparently. Im sure many have had good luck with it but it didnt work here.

Sounds like you found a paint that works well in your area, I'd stick with it exclusively. Just buy an extra quart, close it well, and use it next year for the same purpose.

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PalmettoSailor

· #4 · Mar 16, 2009

I've used Pettit Hydrocoat with good results on the Chesapeake and will painting the bottom of my new boat with it this year. I had only the lightest coat of slime after 8 months of weekend use and no scrubbing in between.

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Brucerobs2

· #5 · Mar 16, 2009

Same

For what its worth, I use the same Hydrocoat. Seems to work pretty well around here, and is a bit more reasonably priced than others...not cheap, but not absurdly priced either.

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tommays

· #6 · Mar 16, 2009

You will find even within the same brand of paint that there are issues with mixing different types

http://www.yachtpaint.com/Images/15_27607.pdf

I just had to get to OK from Interlux to put Micron CSC over Fiberglass Bottomkote® ACT with Irgarol® that is in good condition

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