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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When I was applying barrier coat to my rudder this past weekend (after many repairs), it never occurred to me that I would want to apply the bottom paint (Micron extra) in the "hot" fashion before full cure.

Well, now I realize that was a mistake. Given that, what is the best method to apply the ablative over the barrier coat?

Details:

Barrier coat: 5 coats of epoxy, the last 3 of which were mixed with West 422 barrier coat additive.

Paint: Micron extra

My best guess of what to do:

1)Clean off amine blush by washing entire surface with warm water and a blue scrubby.
2) Lightly scuff surface with 220 grit sandpaper
3) Wipe down with rubbing alcohol for final dust/grease removal
4) Paint with bottom paint.

How long between coats of bottom paint?

Any tips/tricks/advice to improve my plan?

Thanks all!
 

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A good primer is a must on the barrier coat to get the bottom paint to properly adhere. A good scuff with 80 grit on the barrier coat then a primer should do the trick.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
A good primer is a must on the barrier coat to get the bottom paint to properly adhere. A good scuff with 80 grit on the barrier coat then a primer should do the trick.
Do you know of a good type/brand of primer appropriate for this?

FstBttms, Thank you - I'll ask this question there too.

desert rat, sorry I said rubbing alcohol but in fact I use denatured alcohol bought from the solvent section at Lowe's/Homedepot. Is denatured alc any better or worse than acetone? Acetone dries so fast the rag is often dry before I'm done wiping down the surface..
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Wow, that is one rough site. At first it wouldn't let me register since it had identified me as spam! I'm not spam, I promise. (It eventually allowed me after I turned off my proxy and VPN - I guess it wants a resolvable ip address...)

Then it won't let me post a new thread until an administrator activates my account. Sheesh - all for a paint forum!:rolleyes:
 

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Wow, that is one rough site. At first it wouldn't let me register since it had identified me as spam! I'm not spam, I promise. (It eventually allowed me after I turned off my proxy and VPN - I guess it wants a resolvable ip address...)

Then it won't let me post a new thread until an administrator activates my account. Sheesh - all for a paint forum!:rolleyes:
Not every forum lets anybody in like this one.:D
 

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Wow, that is one rough site. At first it wouldn't let me register since it had identified me as spam! I'm not spam, I promise. (It eventually allowed me after I turned off my proxy and VPN - I guess it wants a resolvable ip address...)

Then it won't let me post a new thread until an administrator activates my account. Sheesh - all for a paint forum!:rolleyes:
Yes, but once you got on, an Interlux technical rep answered your question within 4 minutes of you posting it, didn't they? ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yes, but once you got on, an Interlux technical rep answered your question within 4 minutes of you posting it, didn't they? ;)
Very true!

Here is Interlux's response:

Reefpoints,

We recommend the following procedure:

1. Allow the product to fully cure. This generally takes 3-7 days, depending on temperature.
2. Thoroughly scrub the surface with warm, soapy water. Flush with fresh water.
3. Thoroughly sand with 80 grit.
4. Apply 1 coat of Interprotect 2000E
5. Apply 1st coat of Micron Extra when Interprotect 2000E is still tacky.

The Interprotect 2000E is required to allow Micron Extra to adhere to clear epoxies such as West System. Make sure you sand with 80 grit to insure adequate surface profile for the Interprotect to Adhere.

Best regards,
Ken


Since Interprotect 2000E is an epoxy barrier coat, it looks like I'm going to barrier coat my barrier coat! But better spend a little bit more money to ensure proper adhesion.

Yo dawg I heard you like barrier coats..
 
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