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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I recently added remote control to tiller handled Tohatsu 6hp Sail Pro (MFS6CSPROUL). Proceed at your own risk, requires skills equal to changing out bicycle cables.

Parts:
1 - 3GR838800M SRC PARTS KIT-FS4/5/6C
1 - 3B7Q843601 RC BOX, RC5D (MFS4B~30B), AMB-W/O ELECT START

Tools:

1. Print out parts diagram and parts list from the Tohatsu parts book (Tohatsu Outboard Parts - Parts Books)
2. Needle nose pliers
3. 10mm socket and socket wrench
4. 10 mm small open end wrench
5. Threadlock sealant, eg. Locktite blue
6. Waterproof grease

Steps.

1. Remove tiller handle:
a. Disconnect fuel intake hose so you can access and unbolt two 10mm bolts on the inside of tiller connection.
b. Disconnect throttle cables on top of carboretuer.
c. Use slack in cables to slip opposite ends off of grooved control wheel inside tiller handle.
d. Pull cable out of tiller handle, ensuring cable ends are aligned with center slot to exit.
e. Put aside for storage the tiller handle and cable, the parts will no longer be needed.
f. Push grommet out of frame member protruding in front of tiller hole. Cover with rubber trapezoidal covering provided in new kit. Plug tiller hole with large circular plug provided in the new kit.

2. Attach steering plate to the front 2 holes on the frame sticking out below the front of the motor (the steering control bar does not come in the two parts kits I have, but the plate can be used to fix the motor in a forward direction, very useful for a sailboat).

3. Attach the largest stainless steel fabricated piece to the starboard very front of the motor (this is where pictures help). This is for the motor end of your control cables. 2 10mm bolts of differing length from the kit are required, I added 2 additional M6 stainless lock washers, not included in kit. Note: the kits above do not include the type 3300 control cables as each installation requires measuring for the particular length between control box and motor.

4. Attach the stainless welded lever (for forward-neutral-reverse) to a location directly under shift linkage, starboard middle, of motor. The lever has a metal dowel that goes into a hole that is alongside the threaded hole that will take a 10mm treadlocked bolt to attach the lever to the motor.

5. Assemble the throttle lever and cable wheel as shown on parts diagram. You first have to push out a grommet from the inside at the starboard, rear, of the motor to expose the hole that this assembly goes through. The entire assembly is held in place and rotates around the longest 10mm bolt with a matching nylon lock nut on the inside.

6. Just ahead of the cable wheel installed in step 5, you will now mount the inside stainless cable guide, using a short 10mm threadlock coated bolt. With the cable guide installed, you will see what angle the new inside throttle cables (provide new in the kit) will approach the new cable wheel. Thread the ends of the new inside cables onto the new cable wheel installed in step 5. Now run the inside cables around the front of the motor, below the pull rope, back through the cable guide on the other side and up to the throttle wheel on top of the carboretuer. Thread the ends onto the throttle cable wheel and adjust both ends to lightly tension the cables.

Your installation should now look like mine in the pictures. Note: before beginning this journey, I matched all parts in the kits to the pictures shown in the parts book. I found that I did not have to replace the existing fuel filter with the remote fuel filter provided in the kit (the remote filter mounts to the starboard forward corner of the engine and runs two new fuel lines from filter to fuel pump block and filter to carboretuer). This may be needed with the electric start model, I don't know.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Sounds like quite a project, nothing is easy. I have the same motor, how did it work?

Paul T
Actually, matching all the parts to the parts diagram was the most time consuming, the rest was "plug-and-play". Works like a charm. This I the second time I have repowered a sailboat with the Sailpro.Great engine.
 

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Actually, matching all the parts to the parts diagram was the most time consuming, the rest was "plug-and-play". Works like a charm. This I the second time I have repowered a sailboat with the Sailpro.Great engine.
Ah, then life is good. We had a Coronado 25 that had a well which worked fine. However, the motor was buried down there making access to the controls difficult. If I was to do it over, I would have electric start & remote controls.

Paul T
 

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I just bought a new 6hp SailPro, and the remote conversion kit was $235. Comes in a bag, with no instructions. Looks like no more than $100 worth of stuff, but what ya gonna do... gotta have it. Thank goodness for this thread, and the great instructions by the OP.
-Jim
 

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New to the site. Looking to purchase a 2016 Tohatsu 6hp for my fishing boat. I have read your most excellent write up on making a tiller a remote.

Can this be done by ordering just what I need w/o the filter ($100+ itself) or must I order the kit--I'm sure that is what the dealer wants me to do.

What did you use for a control box and cables?

Thanks,
David in Ohio

330-232-0059
 

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I just purchased what I thought was a Tohatsu compatible remote. It's new in box, but not from a dealer. It has the multi pin plug at the end of 20' cables, and I don't know how to make sense of it. Did I buy a non-compatible remote for my 9.8 2015 Nissan electric start tiller throttle? Hope not, please advise.

Thanks.
 

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I have just completed (almost) this conversion on my new 6 HP Tohatsu. The only complication and divergence from this excellent set of instructions was due to my motor having an internal fuel tank. You have to unscrew the two bolts holding the tank in place and carefully lift the plastic tank out of its snug fit inside the base of the motor. It is a very tight fit but it does lift out. If you do not do this, you cannot get at the bolts for the tiller handle. You do not have to disconnect the tank from its fuel line but will have to loosen a third bolt on the port side of the engine to allow the fuel line to be moved out of the way.

In addition, you need to leave this tank out until you are finished. The new throttle cables have to run behind the motor but ahead of the tank. I discovered this too late after replacing the tank after the first step. It has to be out to install the large cable bracket (step 3) as well. Lesson learned. It pays to completely understand the instructions first.

Final note... The kit I received also had the replacement fuel filter and fuel lines. I did not need these either. There might be another way to order a kit without these but its not clear at this point.

To the point about what remote to use, I did order the official Tohatsu remote and I received the version without the electric start key and cable. It is possible to order a two wire cable for the connection of the emergency pull switch to the motor. However, I did not do so and can make my own to save some money. In today's world, both the kit and remote totaled over $720 w/o tax. If you want to add electric start, you need that version of the remote and another kit. I did work with a dealer to get these things since I wanted to make sure I got the right kit. This is my third small engine remote kit installation and a bit more complicated than my earlier conversions on a Suzuki and Nissan.
 

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I wrapped up my conversion of a MFS 6C to a remote but we are still confused as to why Tohatsu included a new fuel filter and associated lines with the kit for this conversion. Anyone out there that did this conversion? I will post a pdf attachment of my final set of instructions but I want to resolve this issue of the included fuel filter first.

I had initially searched for a new MFS6C with the remote setup but could not find one. One dealer told me they were unavailable. Then I found the kit and it seems to be something thousands of other sailboat owners would need. I had no problem ordering the kit from another dealer. Apparently the same kit is used with the 4C, 5C, or 6C?

Small outboards on sailboats should be a common thing these days? Why are the suppliers not offering this remote option? Anyone have any idea?

Dave
 

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heres a video on this conversion :
2020 Tohatsu SailPro 6HP modelhatsu 6HP SailPro Outboard Remote Throttle and Shift + Steering
youtube.com/watch?v=wMHYlGQ4ofM
 

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I bought a 2020 6hp Tohatsu sailpro and like many of you on this forum , decided to do a conversion to remote without electric start.
The kit was quit expensive totaling around $840 . A lot of dough for a bunch of nuts and bolts considering the remote only runs $240 ,cables $100
And the kit $500. I am installing this on a 13’ Boston Whaler as a kicker to my Merc 35el For trolling.
After looking at all the parts I realized I needed advice, so I went on this forum for directions and it has helped quite a bit.
Tomorrow I will be posting some photos of the proper installation of the throttle cables and the removal of the existing fuel filter and gas lines and show you where the new fuel filter included in the kit should be mounted with the new fuel lines.
There is a reason for everything and the previous discussion of the relocation of the new fuel filter was somewhat ambiguous.
Thanks for your patience and see you tomorrow after I mount the parts on the new motor since I am not sure how to upload the photos to the post, can someone steer me in the right direction. Thanks a million.
 

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So I finished the conversion successfully and only came out with 1 extra nut that I replaced and an electric pigtail that I did not use
All the rest went together pretty good

For those who have trouble with the throttle wheel at the throttle arm assembly and cable routing, the correct hook up for the throttle cable goes:
The throttle cable end goes Underneath the wheel and back up ,The return cable goes over the top and Down .

Remove the fuel lines from the fuel pump ,
Remove fuel filter
Remove hose to carburetor.

If you fo not remove the fuel line and filter assembly the motor vibrations could at some point during the motor ‘s life cause chaffing against the fuel line and fuel filter.

Instal the New Fuel filter bracket and fuel filter to a protruding arm located directly below the throttle cam which is attached to the Carburetor
On the PORT Rear side of the engine..

Attach the pre-curved fuel lines to the fuel filter THEN YOU WILL UNDERSTAND WHERE THEY ATTACH TO THE CARBURATOR AND FUEL FUMP.
YOU WILL THEN UNDERSTAND THE BENDS AND THE ADDED shield protection because they go directly above the block which gets hot.

This is the way the NEW FUEL Filter is supposed to be connected. This way the throttle cables a pretty free of clutter and chaffing.

The correct routing for the dual cable throttle assembly goes from the carburetor spring loaded wheel around the front of the engine, under the pull cord handle ,Behind the Fuel pump where you install the J shaped stainless steel keeper against the engine block down to the cable bracket and to the throttle wheel.

It took me a while ,but this is the TRUE ,LOGIC, installation of the the THROTTLE cables and the NEW PROVIDED FUEL FILTER AND FUEL LINES.

I Installed the the shift and Throttle cables to the exterior brackets and to to the Remote Control. Everything was tested for proper fit and adjusted for maximum throttle.

Nothing was obvious a first but after installation it all makes sense and is working very well.
Sorry I could‘not figure out how to load photos.
My Thanks to all other members on this thread and and safe travels to you all.
 

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Hello! I am total noob, have the same motor and wanna do the remote conversion. But I don't see how to attach the steering wheel to this kit. So wheel and steering system is bought additionaly? Thanks
 

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If you only have the 6hp on your boat you need the cables and pulley steering hardware that hooks up to the steel plate on the front of the motor.
If you are using it as a Kicker motor or spare motor for trolling all you need is a Steering Link Accessory bar which attaches to your existing main motor Steering bar. This way you are steering with the existing steering wheel and you are steering both motors at the same time.
 
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