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Ok, there is something wrong with the way I empty the bowl of my racor filter/separator or there is something wrong with my setup.

I end up having to bleed my engine about 15min after I emptied the bowl using the nipple at the bottom, it's really annoying. Other than that, the engine (Yanmar 2GM20F) runs fine.

I usually unscrew the top of the filter to allow the water to flow when I turn the nipple at the bottom of the bowl. If I don't do that, the vacuum prevents any flow.

The filter is just connected to the tank on one side and then directly to the fuel lifter pump, I believe.

Is there something missing in my installation? Is there something I forget to do?

Thanks,

Florent
 

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Dirt Free
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that's entirely normal. After draining, take the top off and fill with fuel. That will probably do it but it's always wise to bleed after draining or changing filters. You don't need an air bubble half way down the fairway.
 
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that's entirely normal. After draining, take the top off and fill with fuel. That will probably do it but it's always wise to bleed after draining or changing filters. You don't need an air bubble half way down the fairway.
100% agree! The first time I changed filters I did not fill the filter container up with fuel. I thought "heck, I have an electric fuel pump I will just bleed it out". I kept running into air bubble issues. It took a long time to bleed all the bubbles out. The next time, I filled the filter container up, a short bleeding period and then it worked like a champ. Huge difference.
 

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If your Racor is near the very bottom (altitude) of the fuel delivery tubing arrangement, when you open it and any of the line 'drains back', any air that now enters the opened connections will gravitate towards and accumulate in any high spots in the line, etc. This accumulation of air 'in the high spots' can be a bugger to bleed out. If so, make sure there is a gentle slope of the piping 'up' toward the 'next' bleedable element in the system; and, after 'messing about' with an opened Racor, etc. WAIT for many minutes so that the air bubbles have time to migrate 'up' to the 'next' bleedable device (usually the engine guard filter).

BTW the Racors (with water removal sumps) 'should' be at the very bottom of a delivery system to remove any water by the same mechanism of gravity settling.
 

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I never thought of it before, but has anyone ever tried draining the Racor at the nipple while the motor is idling? One thought is that the flow of fuel would eliminate the suction that keeps the water from draining until something like the top of filter is cracked open. On the other hand, the suction from the fuel pump might pull air in through the nipple instead of allowing the water to drain. I've never had much bother draining, but it seemed to be an interesting idea to try - when I have time to do a full bleeding just in case.
 

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I never thought of it before, but has anyone ever tried draining the Racor at the nipple while the motor is idling? One thought is that the flow of fuel would eliminate the suction that keeps the water from draining until something like the top of filter is cracked open. On the other hand, the suction from the fuel pump might pull air in through the nipple instead of allowing the water to drain. I've never had much bother draining, but it seemed to be an interesting idea to try - when I have time to do a full bleeding just in case.
Pretty sure that you would indeed suck air into the 'drain'.. the entire line between tank and lift/injector pump will be under suction unless you have an electric fuel pump - but in that case if the pump is active draining the bowl shouldn't require cracking the vent.

Seems like finding a way to minimize/eliminate water in your fuel is the way to go!
 

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I never thought of it before, but has anyone ever tried draining the Racor at the nipple while the motor is idling? One thought is that the flow of fuel would eliminate the suction that keeps the water from draining until something like the top of filter is cracked open. On the other hand, the suction from the fuel pump might pull air in through the nipple instead of allowing the water to drain. I've never had much bother draining, but it seemed to be an interesting idea to try - when I have time to do a full bleeding just in case.
a sure way get aspirate air into the system.

Best way to 'bleed' .... permanently mount/install a 12vdc pump in the line and near/on the tank, energize the pump, then bleed 'everything' in sequential order between the 12 vdc pump and the injectors .... For most Yanmars, .... all components between the 12vdc pump and including the 'engine guard' filter as rarely is it necessarily to bleed downstream of the engine lift pump .... unless you did high pressure pump or injector work.
 
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