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One of None
Hunter 34
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
omg WM is actually cheaper then defender for Teleflex Amega gauges! At least the 3 I need...

Anyways... per Mainsail's inspiration to us all the volt, fuel, and temp gauges are going to be replaced on the universal 5416 engine panel.


 
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omg WM is actually cheaper then defender for Teleflex Amega gauges! At least the 3 I need...

Anyways... per Mainsail's inspiration to us all the volt, fuel, and temp gauges are going to be replaced on the universal 5416 engine panel.


Folks can also check out the Faria Euro gauges at Defender... I got sick of trying to find stock on Teleflex gauges, company sold off gauges blah, blah, blah, so switched to the Faria Euro......

Defender.com Search Results: Faria: Euro

 

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One of None
Hunter 34
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8,627 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
MS! I keep looking at the arctic white gauges. Like them allot.

I have a new red #8 wire ready to feed the panel.. the trailer plug is stll good but will be removed...

Uh.. no, I won't be using fender washers on the new gauges LOL

Lessee... red = pos. (yellow in newer boats?) black = neg, oil and water senders one wire each? fuel should be a no brainer. Key switch replaced last year.. should be ok as is. glow plugs. someone ran new red before me.
 

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Mermaid Hunter
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Lessee... red = pos. (yellow in newer boats?) black = neg
Red is still positive. Yellow is in the newer ABYC standards for negative as a replacement for black in order to avoid confusion with shore power AC (white and black).
 

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One of None
Hunter 34
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8,627 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Red is still positive. Yellow is in the newer ABYC standards for negative as a replacement for black in order to avoid confusion with shore power AC (white and black).
my bad! At least I knew yellow was being used in newer boats LOL
 
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One of None
Hunter 34
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks Stu! gotta love spaghetti!
 

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Learning the HARD way...
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Hey D!

Pleez loose:
  • the wire nuts - keep them out of the bilge too
  • the ammeter
  • the trailer plugS (there were two of 'em)
  • the fender washers:eek:

Here is a wiring diagram of what I did on my boat. You could use this as a template for yours;
 

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One of None
Hunter 34
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8,627 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Hey D!

Pleez loose:
  • the wire nuts - keep them out of the bilge too
  • the ammeter
  • the trailer plugS (there were two of 'em)
  • the fender washers:eek:

Here is a wiring diagram of what I did on my boat. You could use this as a template for yours;
gotta love it! thank you!
got the new gauges yesterday. Faria dress white from Defender. The putting in new is going to be a whole lot easier then "fixing" the mess on the back of the panel!
 

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One of None
Hunter 34
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8,627 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Loves pretty colors....
 

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One of None
Hunter 34
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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Preview..as the carnage begins....




Going to paint the panel. will be losing the "Atomic" sticker

Those are new white gauges but the flash made it hard to make out.
 
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One of None
Hunter 34
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Wow! white on black! NICE!! OK question. the pilot light? on when the key is on? or for the bilge blower I don't have/need?
 

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Learning the HARD way...
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Pilot lights would be BEST on a rheostat, so that you can dim them to what ever level is appropriate. Put the rheostat where the blower switch is now.

As for the appearance of the package,
 

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One of None
Hunter 34
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8,627 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
thank you E! ok.. where to get a rheostat?
 

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Denise, before you go sourcing a rheostat, figure out what the light was originally there for to begin with. In many cases, it is the low oil pressure light, also connected to an audible alarm. Check your engine/cockpit panel wiring diagram in the link previously provided and the wiring diagram also shared.
 

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One of None
Hunter 34
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8,627 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thanks stu.. I think I'll forgo the rheostat for now. I have the Original wiring diagram and it did have an oil light.

going to trace out wires today.

I do have a question. The Alt has 2 wires that go to panel. I assume they are for the field coil? One (reg) goes to key terminal #1 the other one (output) goes to (B) in the key switch which seems to be + on the panel

I'll copy the diagram and post here. or try to LOL

what a mess!
 
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