Not enough to worry about..all the new finagled multimeters now include an Amp meter..ie..link 10/20 ect. Their rated draw is .o something.
Bypass it and replace it at teh engine panel with a standard volt meter then add a true battery monitor like a Victron or Xantrex Link below decks.I have a old style analog amp meter as part of my engine gauges I like it and want to keep it. Is this also true of this gauge?
Thanks, Thats the plan 4ga wire, a large frame alternator and a smart reg. OH yea I just recieved my new 12volt refrigerator to replace the 110 volt unit that ran off the inverterMotion, although not a hightech solution, just the re-wiiring with larger gauge, will freshen up your system and surely will bring a better charging compared to what you have today. Good luck.
If you think of it as this "The two small wires measure voltage and feed the meter." Then it's can be a little easier to visualize.The ammeter takes virtually no power out of the charging system. The shunt continues the charge circuit from alternator to battery bank. The two small wires measure amperage and feed the meter. The shunt shown is a 50mv/500amp, when 500 amps is going through it the small wires fees 50mv to meter - so no heat. As far as wire gauge, 8' return trip is about 3% drop with 4ga, 2% drop if the wire is 2ga. I would also change to a heavier wire, maybe 1/0 for minimal drop. The wire calculator gives 2% loss with 1/0 handling 280 amps. AWG by wire length/amps calculator
No it is not practical as these meters use their own internal shunts.is it practical to use a shunt with an old style analog dash mounted amp meter? Would this work? If so where would one get a shunt?