We'll done, Mike.
I will add an intermediate step I find useful. I first let out 2x the depth of the anchor (properly defined as water depth plus the height of your bow). In the wind, the bow is likely to fall off to one side or the other, as you're letting it out, so I wait for the bow to come back into the wind. This tells me that the anchor chain/rode is essential straight off the bow to the anchor. I may apply a touch of idle reverse just to begin to properly align the anchor. It may have fallen on its side or even be upside down, depending on design. This little maneuver will not set the anchor, just hopefully flip it. Then I let out another 2x, then more idle reverse after she points back into the wind again. Then the final 2x to 3x. This should put out 6 to 7 scope in total. At this point, I apply slowly increasing rpm in reverse. Don't ham fist it, you want it to set in.
If you have SOG on your GPS, it's very useful for determining set. In theory, it should go to zero, even though you are in gear. In practice, it often stops at 1kt or so, as any swing side to side is picked up as SOG. At the least, you should see it drop and stay steady. Take a bearing to shore as well and double check.
The old wives tale that has been dispelled is that rode requires 7-1, while all chain only requires 5-1. In a real blow, as noted above, you still need scope to hold. Chain is still better, prior to enough wind to straighten it out, but if I'm sleeping at anchor, I do not want to think about it. I'm typing at anchor right now and have 8-1 out. Slept like a baby.
Finally, the newest anchor designs, commonly referred to as NextGen anchors, really do seem to set and hold better in the widest conditions. Examples are Rocna, Mantus and Manson Supreme. If you are using that Danforth, they can be tough.
Remember, it's not practice that makes perfect, it's perfect practice that makes perfect. Do it all every time. Good luck.