[Zoya]

I know it's a bit of a tricky thing to do but I would assume dealer commissioning new boats do their best to paint the underside of the keel. Well, I hauled out today for a quick pressure wash to get her ready for spring and below is what I saw. Should I ***** about it or is that business as usual?

 

[Classic30]

Given that you can see patches of grey primer alongside the bare keel itself - I'd say that's just sloppy.

My boat goes back in tomorrow and for sure there'll be a guy standing right next to it armed with a tin of antifoul and a paintbrush ready to get to work the moment she's lifted in the slings.. or the yard will know all about it.

She looks like a beauty - good luck with her.

 

[Zoya]

Thanks. I like to be reasonable but don't like to get cheated either...

 

[Classic30]

Thanks. I like to be reasonable but don't like to get cheated either...

If you point it out to them nicely, they'll likely just fix it on the spot at no cost to you..

It's really not a big deal - but, yes, it needs to be done and it's reasonable to ask them to do it.

 

[aloof]

Yards like to think one can antifoul the bottom of the keel just minutes before splashing. But it really does not work. The paint often blisters of simply falls off. If boatyards knew anything about boats...or cared about and quality service whatsoever...they would not do that.

The cheapskate workaround is to try to clean and sand the keel bottom just before shoring, then try to get an overnight or morning in the slings to dry the paint just before splashing. The proper way is to bargain for multiple lifts to move the shoring. And those lifts must be after the antifoul had cured a day or two. Expensive. That is of course what I do.

 

[Scotty C-M]

Most yards (at least in my area) give you hang time of an hour or two to coat the bottom of the keel. I know for a fact that it works on Trinidad and Micron 66. boats that I have had with those bottoms look fine when I haul them a couple of years later.

I would be nice, but definitely ask about the lack of paint on the bottom. Not acceptable.

 

[Zoya]

If you point it out to them nicely, they'll likely just fix it on the spot at no cost to you..

It's really not a big deal - but, yes, it needs to be done and it's reasonable to ask them to do it.

Dealer is 200 miles away so, not possibly to have them fix it but thanks all for your feedback, I feel vindicated....

 

[TakeFive]

My river has 7' tidal swing, and depth in the lift area varies from 6' to -1' (a foot of mud). So my DIY boat club has a few hours to splash in daylight for a week, and the next week they don't do any splashes. So on the days that they can splash, they try to do ~4 boats in about 2 hours. There is no willingness to allow any boat to hang in the lifts for a few hours, or everyone would demand the same privilege. So our boats never get fully coated under the keel. I do try to paint the bottom of the wings, since they extend out over the edge of the wood bock. But the center of the wing, where the block supports it, never gets paint.

Getting them to lift the boat in the evening (for painting the keel) and spash early the next morning isn't really viable, because they're too drunk in the evening, and too hung over in the morning.

 

[Classic30]

FWIW, most ablative antifouls do not need to dry before splashing and there is certainly NO issues with putting them on as the boat heads for the water.. after all, general practice for decades was (and still is in many places) to antifoul between tides whilst lashed to careening piles, so the paint was and still is designed to handle that. Indeed some (I can't remember which ones) shouldn't be left too long before getting wet or they won't work properly at all! As in all things paint - read the tin.

The biggest issue after antifouling is always the bit under the straps... but if the yard uses cradles or blocks to sit the boat on, the lifting straps will naturally be positioned on fresh dry paint, so it's simply a matter of making sure someone is nearby with a tin of antifoul and a brush to do the bits under the keel after the boat is lifted and before it hits the water. So long as the straps don't damage the antifoul (and they usually don't), you're all good.

 

[aeventyr60]

Good yards put a large piece of paper between the hull and straps to avoid any damage to fresh anti foul and your freshly waxed hull.

 

[Classic30]

Good yards put a large piece of paper between the hull and straps to avoid any damage to fresh anti foul and your freshly waxed hull.

?!??? There aren't any good yards around here then!!

If I'm extremely nice to the yard manager I might get a few scraps of carpet...

 

[aeventyr60]

There is the "Strapless haul out too:

Post 7206
http://www.sailnet.com/forums/gener...lated/115073-voyaging-$500-per-month-271.html

 

[Classic30]

There is the "Strapless haul out too:

Post 7206
http://www.sailnet.com/forums/gener...lated/115073-voyaging-$500-per-month-271.html

WHADAYATHINKYADOING?!??

You don't even send your wash-down water to an EPA-Approved Processing Facility?? Just think of all those heavy metals being released into a Pristine Natural Environment!?!!!

Oh, the horror of it all..

Yep, that's the way to do it.. You lucky bugger you... :laugher

 

[Rhapsody-NS27]

I've heard of people asking yards to do an over-lunch haul out where there is usually more time to paint and allow to dry, but, if drying time is an issue, couldn't you ask for an overnight lift when no one is around anyway?

 

[Fstbttms]

Any anti fouling paint needs time for the solvents to flash off before going into the water. This time period will vary from product to product but immediate splashing after painting is a guarantee of paint failure.

 

[Siamese]

Bitching at a dealer. Hardy har har....like water off a duck's back.

 

[Classic30]

Any anti fouling paint needs time for the solvents to flash off before going into the water. This time period will vary from product to product but immediate splashing after painting is a guarantee of paint failure.

Well.. some of us (those with old wooden boats) have no choice.

I'd much rather the boat goes back in with 99% of the antifoul cured to spec and with a few splashes of fresh stuff on the other 1% than have the boat dry out on the hard, opening seams, loosening fastenings and cracking paint. Heck, just this morning it wasn't only the antifoul that was wet when my old girl went back in - in a couple of spots the timber was also. I know it'll be fine because I've been doing it that way for years now and have yet to suffer 'paint failure' because of it. Some 'guarantee'...

BTW, it's a beautiful day over here.. Hopefully the pics are self explanatory:

Enjoy!

 

[Fstbttms]

I know it'll be fine because I've been doing it that way for years now and have yet to suffer 'paint failure' because of it. Some 'guarantee'...

Putting wet paint (which means there are unflashed solvents present) into the water is a guarantee that the paint will not perform as it was designed to. That is not simply my opinion but rather a matter of fact and chemistry. Just because you've "been doing it that way for years" doesn't mean you've been doing it right. Unless maybe you know more about their products than the manufacturers do.

From the West Marine CPP web site:

Drying Time:
To overcoat: 3-12hrs.
To launch: 8-16hrs
WEST MARINE CPP Plus Antifouling Paint | West Marine

From the Interlux Micron CSC web site:

Dry times at 77°F (25°C):
Touch dry - 2 hours
Dry to overcoat - 6 hours
Dry to launch - 8 hours
http://www.yachtpaint.com/LiteratureCentre/micron_csc_usa_eng.pdf

From the Pettit Vivid web site:

DRY TIME* (HOURS):
To Recoat-16
To Launch- 24
*The above dry times are minimums.
http://pettitpaint.com/fileshare/product_pds/Vivid.pdf

BTW- I see examples of this every day. The paint where the jack stand pads were (having been slapped on while the boat was in the slings, on it's way to the water) comes off the boat prematurely and fouls faster (and worse) than anywhere else on the boat. Why? Because the paint was not allowed to properly dry before the boat was launched.

 

[aeventyr60]

BTW- I see examples of this every day. The paint where the jack stand pads were (having been slapped on while the boat was in the slings, on it's way to the water) comes off the boat prematurely and fouls faster (and worse) than anywhere else on the boat. Why? Because the paint was not allowed to properly dry before the boat was launched.

What yard in your planet is actually going to let you or any one else hang in the slings long enough for proper drying time? Reality is your painting the bottom of the keel where the bottom has been resting, and the jack stand pad area you could not paint, while the travel lift is making it's way to the drop in slot. Great internet idea you have, but reality is just a bit different.

 

[Fstbttms]

What yard in your planet is actually going to let you or any one else hang in the slings long enough for proper drying time? Reality is your painting the bottom of the keel where the bottom has been resting, and the jack stand pad area you could not paint, while the travel lift is making it's way to the drop in slot. Great internet idea you have, but reality is just a bit different.

I didn't say this isn't what happens in the real world. I said it is a mistake to believe that the wet anti fouling paint will work properly once it has been put into the water.

Whether you like it or not, that is the reality.