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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have almost completed a 29 foot blue water boat designed by myself. I build 12 foot dinghies for commercial fishing use and have used South African pine for framing and planking. These are coated with one layer of fibreglass mat and resin outside and a bitumen, water based sealer inside. I know I know:eek: ...sounds radical especially to South Africans who are familiar with SA pine. But I have always broken away from the conventional and many times come up with some amazing stuff. Just because no-one else is prepared to try.However In 12 years no come-backs:) ......still counting!! The thing is, my 29 footer is built exactly the same way. Planked 38mm thick and resin coated matt. Only difference is the inside is also fibreglassed. I would really be interested in hearing from anyone who has used pine for planking. I see no reason why this shouldnt work fine provided the timber is treated properly. (All my timber is also tanalith treated) It is going to revolutionise boat building if I pull this one off because SA pine is incredibly cheap and easy to obtain.
 

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Do you have pictures of your process. Is your boat a standard plank on frame then encapsulated with glass using what kind of resin?
Before anyone can make any intelligent comments we would need to know the construction technique you are using.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It is carvel planked. Ie Fastened with single 10mm screw bolts through plank and into frames. I havnt caulked yet. There is very little space between planks so had intended "caulking" by fibreglassing strips of woven glass over joint outside and inside. I am using a general purpose resin. Its only id is GRP resin. This is very good quality because as mentioned have been using it on dinghie for last 12 yrs.
 

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Afun... One thing comes to mind when you describe the encapsulation of the pine between two skins of FRP. Now you will face the same shortfalls that regular cored FRP layups face. This is the problem of water intrusion wherever you place a through bolt or screw from the outside. This will permit water intrusion and subsequent rot that creeps between the FRP skins. The solution has been to grind out a larger hole than needed, through only one skin, then to fill the hole back in with an epoxy/filler mix to seal the core. Then re-drill or tap the hole to attach the fitting. The wood is relatively soft so a solid core at those points will prevent the wood core from moving (compressing) under the load of the bolts.

Did you do a test layup to see if your skins bond ok?

Sounds good otherwise.
 
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