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Discussion Starter #1
I'm sure there are other threads like this, and I apologize if I offend anyone for posting it again.

I've got to haul my boat (1983 Cal 27) for cutlass bearing replacement. I tried to do it in the water, but failed. As long as it's out I'm going to do a bottom job, too. If you would, please help me with that, and suggest other things I should do or inspect while it's out.

My plan:
Drop rudder, pull prop shaft, remove old cutlass bearing, install new one.
Check shaft for wear and bend. Anything else to look at here? Where should I order a cutlass bearing from? Are there good ones and bad ones?

Sand bottom back to gel coat.
Grind blisters. My intent is to get an air powered die grinder for this. Is there a better way?
Fill blister holes. Use west systems epoxy and what filler?

I'd like to then put a sealer coat on. I don't know much about them. I believe they are two-part paint-like applications. I would appreciate suggestions on this.

Apply bottom paint. I think I'm on the right track here - sealer then paint. I'd like to put on a hard paint. I'm in a lake and all that grows on the bottom is algae. I think, although I may be wrong, that I'll get longer life out of a hard paint, and I can scrub the algae off. Bottom paint suggestions?

I'm going to repack the stuffing box and replace the stuffing box hose.

Thoughts? Comments? Thanks for the help.
 

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s/v Tiger Lily
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I would think you really need an anti fouling paint on a freshwater lake. If you are down to Gelcoat algae can just we scrubbed when you haul or in the water. Others might have a different opinion.
 

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This sounds like a winter project to me. You could probably haul and replace the cutlass bearing in a few hours with the right tools and sail for the rest of the season. Lots of videos on you tube on this.

Are you sure you have blisters? If so, this is a worthwhile read: http://www.westsystem.com/ss/assets/howto-pub2/Gelcoat Blisters Diagnosis Repair and Prevention.pdf

Also I would check out Mainsail's site for some of the other work that you mentioned:

Compass Marine How To Articles Photo Gallery by Compass Marine How To at pbase.com

Good luck
 

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formerly DWJensen
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I'm sure there are other threads like this, and I apologize if I offend anyone for posting it again.

I've got to haul my boat (1983 Cal 27) for cutlass bearing replacement. I tried to do it in the water, but failed. As long as it's out I'm going to do a bottom job, too. If you would, please help me with that, and suggest other things I should do or inspect while it's out.

My plan:
Drop rudder, pull prop shaft, remove old cutlass bearing, install new one.
Check shaft for wear and bend. Anything else to look at here? Where should I order a cutlass bearing from? Are there good ones and bad ones?
I did the above as well as replaced the shaft (grooved) and coupler. While everything was out we also switched to a PSS dripless stuffing box. I like having a dry bilge now. We sourced most parts from Jamestown and/or Defender. The shaft was custom made. While out of the water I also replaced a few seacocks and rebedded our through-hulls. New zincs too. We did a compound/wax job while dry as well.

Sand bottom back to gel coat.
Grind blisters. My intent is to get an air powered die grinder for this. Is there a better way?
Fill blister holes. Use west systems epoxy and what filler?I'd like to then put a sealer coat on. I don't know much about them. I believe they are two-part paint-like applications.

I would appreciate suggestions on this.
I used an electric grinder and filled with Interlux Watertite filler. Once it was all cured and faired I used their Interprotect 2000E barrier coat (This is probably the most popular sealer/barrier coat).


Apply bottom paint. I think I'm on the right track here - sealer then paint. I'd like to put on a hard paint. I'm in a lake and all that grows on the bottom is algae. I think, although I may be wrong, that I'll get longer life out of a hard paint, and I can scrub the algae off. Bottom paint suggestions?
Can't help you here - No experience with fresh water. I'd get local recommendations from people at your lake.

I'm going to repack the stuffing box and replace the stuffing box hose.
As above, I changed to a PSS and love it.


Daz
s/v Pau Hana
currently lying Marathon, FL
 

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You will need the boat to sit for awhile after you've popped the blisters to be sure that hull dries out. Be sure to have someone hit the hull with a moisture meter before filling the blisters. If you make the repair prior to the hull being dry all your work will be in vain.
 

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Hey,

Who is doing the work and how much time and money do you have?

Personally, the sailing season is too short for me to miss a significant part of it for maintenance that can be done in the off season. At this stage in my life, I have more money than time, but I am still cheap.

So, doing the shaft and bearing is not that bad. If it were my boat, I would pay the yard to do the work. When I had this work done on my O'day 35, I removed and then installed the rudder, I paid the yard for the rest. They chopped the shaft in half to make removing it easier. I bought a new cutless bearing, shaft, stuffing box, and coupler. They did the work in less than a day.

When I had a 28' boat, it would take me about 8 hours to sand the bottom (not down to gelcoat, but down far enough so that the new paint had a fair surface). If you really want / need to get all the way down to gelcoat it will take longer - maybe a lot longer. I have no experience with blister repair, so I can't help you there.

I sail in salt water so I can't recommend a paint for fresh. It takes only a few hours to apply two coats of paint.

If I were in your position I would haul the boat and just replace the shaft and cutless. Get back in the water and finish the season. Over the winter I would do the bottom. In late fall you can remove the old paint and open the blisters. Let the bottom sit all winter and start repairs in the spring.

Good luck,
Barry
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the replies so far.

It doesn't *sound* like a tremendous amount of time in terms of work. 8 hours to sand the bottom? Painting can be done in a day, from my reading. Cutlass bearing, I think, will be less than half a day. If I double everything so far, I'm looking at a 3 day weekend.

The unknown to me is how long to leave the open blisters to dry? A week? More? Less?

My plan, if I can get it done, is to have the boat on the hard for a couple of weeks. I'll take a day off for each one giving me 6 work days on the boat.

For me, sailing season never ends. I sail all year. It's not as comfortable in the winter, but it's still sailing. And here the wind is typically better in the winter.
 

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One of None
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in this case Catalina Direct is your best friend they have everything you need
Catalina Direct: Prop Shaft, 36"-48", for C-27, C-270, and C-28

Blisters if they a deep into the substrate will neeed to be dried. The sun can be your friend in this also. the sunny side will dry very quckly. If the boat can be turned 180 degrees it's a plus!

If you think 3 days, plan 9 Shaft may be good. slice the old coupling with a supply if cut off wheels and right angel grinder. cutless bearing can be replaced without pulling the shaft.
 

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Barquito
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My plan, if I can get it done, is to have the boat on the hard for a couple of weeks. I'll take a day off for each one giving me 6 work days on the boat.
You will not be able to sand the bottom (many days), repair blisters (at least one day), put multiple layers of sealant (multiple days), and bottom paint (a day), in 6 days of working. Not to mention that it would be better to pop the blisters and let them dry all winter. I would do your other projects, and put whatever bottom paint you have on, back on.
 

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The unknown to me is how long to leave the open blisters to dry? A week? More? Less?
It will all depend on how blistered your hull is but I can promise you it won't dry out in a week. One of my boats that I did a bottom job on got sand blasted in the fall, sat all winter, was finally dry enough come May to begin filling holes.
 

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Be very careful installing a PSS seal, I'm not saying they can't be done right but they frequently aren't and then the boat can sink. My neighbour spent a nervous night with 4 pumps running to keep the boat afloat, because the yard didn't dimple/punch the shaft before installing the screws. You can also back up the installation with a shaft clamp from McMaster Carr, in case the screws work loose.

I didn't have space for a PSS seal, but the yard installed Tefpak packing and I now have an almost completely dry bilge under the engine.
 
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