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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone have a suggestion for an appropriate one step cleaner/wax for an Awlgrip painted topside? Preferably something that could be applied with an random orbital on slow speed. (actually it's Alexseal, but fewer have heard of it and it should react the same)

It would definitely not want an abrasive cleaner and doesn't need one. Just to clean off bilge outlet stains.

I know some say no wax, but I disagree. I think it protects the finish. Easily washed off with the right detergent to prevent yellow build up.
 

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Care and Maintenance Instructions for Alexseal®
Premium Topcoat 501

3.
Sealing and Protecting
It is recommended to apply a high quality wax or polymer sealer designed for surfaces
painted with polyurethane at least 2-3 times per year. This will act as a sacrificial coating
that will protect the paint and can dramatically improve the coatings life expectancy.
4.
Important Notes
Many companies manufacture products for sealing and protecting painted surfaces. Only
use products that are specifically designed for surfaces painted with
polyurethane. These products should not contain abrasives or caustic chemicals.
Do not let moisture/water collect or be trapped between a Polyurethane Topcoat and
plastic film, shrink wrap, hardware, seat cushions, or wet fabric. Polyurethane topcoats
should not be continuously submerged under water. Moisture/water held against a
Polyurethane Topcoat even for a few days can result in bubbles forming in the
Polyurethane Topcoat.
5.
Removing Stains
Remove stains from a polyurethane finish as soon as possible. Some stains
can actually etch the surface of the paint and embed into the coating. If a stain cannot be removed with
a mild detergent during the washing process, solvents may be used to loosen the stain.
Always start with mild solvents such as Mineral Spirits, VM & P Naphtha or Denatured
Alcohol. Harsher solvents such as Acetone and Lacquer Thinner should only be used as a
last resort. After removing the stain with solvent, wash the area with a mild detergent and
clean water to remove all solvent residues.
NU-Finish car wax
 

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Minnie,

Awlgrip is not like regular paint. It stratifies as it cures. The resin tends to rise to the suface of the paint as it dries, giving the paint a thin skin, while the pigment part sinks down. This skin is what is shiny. It protects the pigmentation, which is why the paint lasts 10 years if well cared for.

I'm not sure about Alexseal. I expect you should visit the web site and see what the vendor says.

The long and short of Awlgrip is that it should never be machine buffed, and should never be buffed at all if it still looks good, cause it is way too easy to screw it up. That skin is very thin and you can go through it. The Awlgrip web site says clean it with Awlwash and protect it using Awlcare.

There's a ton of help and advice available here on Sailnet with regard awlgrip and you should read it, but the best bet is trust what the manufacturer and knowledgeable distributors say. Use the link above to see what the manufacturer says; use this link to see an insteresting compare/contrast by Jamestown distributors. To query google for information from a specific site like Sailnet, pattern your query like the following search for Awlgrip buffing (but without the quotes):

"site:sailnet.com Awlgrip buffing"

Hope this helps!

Regards,

Tom
 

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Don't use wax, it does indeed make a right mess. Awl wash and Awlcare are the way to go. Awlcare is a protective sealant and seems to last quite well. Although the instructions tell you not to, I applied the Awlcare with a random orbit buffer but on very low speed. Heat is the enemy of Awlgrip.

Neither product is particularly expensive so why use anything else?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for the links. Alexseal is actually the next gen of Awlgrip. Same inventor that waited for his non-compete to expire. He even makes it in the original factory, as I recall. It is an LP paint, just like Awlgrip, but is buffable and repairable. I'm very familiar with the stratified structure of Awlgrip, but thanks anyway.

Alexseal actually recommends wax, although, I hadn't seen it in the links above. If I were to use a buffer, I specifically mentioned a random orbital on slow speed. Its the heat of a circular buffer that melts off the top layer. I've seen a real pro get away with it, but I would not try. I'm not opposed to doing this by hand. I was just being lazy after a long day of commissioning.

Awlcare is easy enough to apply, but lasts about a week or two and does zero cleaning. It never really has that waxed look either. It's just a sealer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I had a brilliant idea. I just sent a note to Alexseal. :)

I like this product for the plane and it would be perfect for the topsides, if acceptable. It really cleans well and lasts a couple of months. Best of all, it can haze over in the direct sun and bake as long as you like, before wiping off. I hope its acceptable, now that I think of it.

https://www.arrowmagnolia.com/productcart/pc/AERO-GLAZE-56p1217.htm
 

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If you look within the PDF it acutually recommends the waxes. Mostly car waxes. Notice that it recommends polymer waxes only. Which happen to be far better anyway. Maybe not as good as some of the carnuba waxes for shine; but, better for durability.
I use Nu finish now after a witnessed a bunch of power boaters in the marina using it. The year i started using it i had shoulder surgery, so i only had one arm. It was the easy way out. What a difference. This spring i took a look at the boat. Still shines and still repelling water. I don't think i'll ever go back to marine wax with the labor involved. I do admit i don't know what it does to the fiberglass though.
 

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I've been thinking about painting my boat. Now reading up on Alexseal i feel i may have found a paint that i like. I have a degree in Automotive refinishing (28 yrs ago); i've often wondered why the boat industry hasn't mirrored the auto industry. I understand the water and salt issue. What about all those cars that run around at 75 mph in salt for 5 months of the year? Seems to hold up fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Fender rub is a unique marine issue. Keeping a shine after spending a year rubbing a fender is pretty tough. Alexseal does a good job, albeit, with fender covers. Still.
 

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Awlcare is easy enough to apply, but lasts about a week or two and does zero cleaning.
A week or two? I treated the topsides with Awlcare about 8 months ago - water is still beading on it. Also you can still see where I missed a spot near to the stern - it is much shinier where the Awlcare went on.
 

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We use and recommend Star Brite marine polish with Teflon at our marina.. I also use it on my truck and found that it lasts longer than Nu Finish did. It is super easy to apply, just wipe on then wipe it off, just like the Nu Finish. I use microfiber cloths as well. Keeps stains off boat in our dirty muddy waters for a while..

http://www.starbrite.com/item/premium-marine-polish-with-ptef

Sent from my HTC6500LVW using Tapatalk
 

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I am curious about this Alex seal paint.. It's the next generation of all grip? Does that mean it's better, and how is it better? Awlgrip is some pretty great stuff, minus not being able to repair it...

Sent from my HTC6500LVW using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
This is the reply from Alexseal on the two products above, 3M Clean and Wax and Aero Glaze:

Thank you for your inquiry regarding Alexseal.

While we do not have any experience with the products you inquired about, I did research them and I do not believe that they will do any damage to the Alexseal finish. They are used on Plexiglas and other plastics which would be harmed before a polyurethane finish.

Most polymer sealers have cleaning properties so you may find that one of the traditional wipe on and wipe off polymer sealers designed for paint will also work as a one-step product.

I hope this answers your question.

Thank you for using Alexseal and take care

Tripp Nelson
 

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Not sure what alexseal is but awlcraft is an acrylic urethane that can be buffed and is easily repainted. Awlgrip on the other hand is a polyester urethane and cannot be buffed and is more difficult to repair. Best to check with your paint supplier to determine maintenance procedure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Alexseal and Awlgrip are both linear polyester paints. Awlcraft is acrylic, which is more easily repaired, but is substantially less durable. Trade-off.
 
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