SailNet Community banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
From the factory I30 Bahama Stanchions seem to be backed with only heavy duty fender washers...I would kinda like some thing a little more substantial...

There is but one issue I have run into to creating these backing plates.....Each stanchion has 4 bolts.....2 of which are through coring and 2 of which are through solid glass. The problem is there is no continuous flat surface to mount a plate on...it will always be lopsided because of the thickness reduction. Any insight to a solution would be much appreciated.....

Bryant
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,264 Posts
First remove the core in the area that the bolts go thru.

Second cut a plate of G10 to the appropriate size, and drill holes for the bolts.

Third mix a batch of thickened epoxy to the consistency of peanut butter.

Fourth instal the stantion, insert the bolts (wax them very well first, spray wax is great for this), goop on the epoxy, install the backing plate, and loosely tighten the bolts down. The goal is to allow the epoxy to form to the deck and G10 plate.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
54 Posts
Just food for thought....

Unless the plywood core has been damaged by water and rotted, I doubt the current setup will pull though the deck. I suspect the stanchion on the Bahama will break off at the base before the base lets go of the deck. If you're going through the effort of attaching a backing plate I would suggest perhaps looking at stronger stanchions. I replaced all of mine with a custom made unit that fits the same base pattern and extends right over the toe rail, moving the actual stanchion out as well as more upright. This increased the deck space along the cabin trunk, making it easier to go forward and work on the side decks. That was the original goal of the new bases, not an issue of strength. In fact, the new bases also have oversized fender washers as backing. Try as I might, I cannot get the deck at the stanchion to flex. They were built strong in those days!

Bert Vermeer
s/v Natasha
Sidney, BC
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
We are having serious rain today here in Seattle (surprise, surprise) and I am sure the slow leaks I see inside along the walls are coming from the stanchions which are hidden by the headliner. (I have rebedded the chainplate covers which are not through-bolted, and I don't think they leak anymore.)
Does anyone have a suggestion for rebedding the stanchions without having to rip out the headliner?
Islander 30 Mk 2 1976
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
54 Posts
I suffered the same problem in both my Bahama 30s. I cut the vinyl at the zipper and again at the hull/deck joint, removing the vinyl and gaining access. I found the open cell foam backing completely disintegrated, dust in my hands. I resealed the bases and stopped the leaks. To "re-finish" the interior where the vinyl had been removed I installed pieces of mahogany with tinted plexiglass sliding windows. Now I have hidden storage behind the settees and access to the stanchion nuts as well as the deck/hull joint nuts (which will also leak over time!). As far as the hull/deck joint bolts leaking, usually tightening them up will solve the leak. Otherwise, pull the bolt, seal the head and re-tighten. The most common cabin leak on a Bahama 30 is going to be the main cabin windows. As large as they are, they flex with the cabin trunk and invariably will start to leak. Pull the inside frame off and see if there is any moisture behind the vinyl. The water from these windows runs down the cabin top inside the vinyl and can leak out anywhere, usual the frozen zipper. I've seen some major damage to the interior plywood of the cabin top from long term leaks. It's all repairable, but if you can stop the leak it will stop the rot before it spreads.
If you're interested I can send you photos of what I did.

Bert Vermeer
s/v Natasha
Sidney BC
[email protected]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Thank you! Yes, I would like to see pictures. I have repaired the windows in the main cabin recently, but I just don't know how to access the stanchions with that headliner in place. I guess I have to remove it? There's no cool trick to rebedding the stanchions completely from the deck side?
 

·
Registered
Corsair 24
Joined
·
4,594 Posts
dont have a bahama 30 but an islander 36
rebed toerails, stanchions ripped out headliner, reinstalled windows etc etc etc etc....

still have leaks...

less but still

stanchion backing plates we simply sued 3/4 inch ply that was epoxied on one side, the side facing the potential water intrusion...

used big fender washers and tightend down just fine....the longer bolts and backing plate add a bit of stiffeness...

of course pot and redrill holes to correct size...that would be my biggest advice so any leak doesnt make things worse with the core

regarding the vinyl if you have a lot of leaks there is only one solution a complete tearing off of it and then think of making a new one with the old as templates

OR PAINT.

my job is temporary until I can solve all the leaks and hardware issues as well as finishing off interior joinery and woodwork...

cheers

ps. you can see pics in my islander 36 projects in paradise thread if you feel inclined.
I do have to solve the issue of concealing my stanchion backing plates from view too...they look fugly exposed as they are...
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top