[SAILINGBUM1]

High Styx flyer. While I have made some rigging changes such as adding a bow pulpit and extending the fore-stay with great performance results I have a 35 Coronado sloop rig and am unfamiliar with the running back-stay mounts on the ketch rig but am assuming you wish to move them forward some. The angle of course can be no less then the angle on MMast to the end of the boom and strong new chain-plate hull support will have to be fiberglassed in. This requires some innovation due to the way the deck is attached to the hull If you have a king/gueen stay from main to misen you may also consider attaching the running MM rigging to the sheet line slide( mine extend all the way aft) so it can be adjusted for certain points of sail and getting it out of the way of the misen boom when the misen is in use.. As long as it is secure and the angle not to extreme it should be OK for normal running sails. If it looks wrong it is. it is prudent to ask a professional rigger or 3. The original design is not the only safe design on a mass production boat. Often just the cheapest.

I have 2 fuel tanks (stock original)in the starboard v berth and center strbd bulk head. They are mostly inaccessible from the bottom and do not appear to have a drain plug.
The best tank drain method I have found is to pump it out with a permanently installed electric fuel priming pump( from $17 to $50 US). Since I have a Perkins diesel this also makes it easy to purge the system of air/ water and is one of my first installations on a new boat. You can intall a T- valve or just disconnect it from the fuel filter for draining. No diesel should be without one.
Hope this helped some.

As you become more familiar with your boat please help correct the rumors that all Coronado 35's have a balsa hull core. My 1971 does not and I have never met an owner who says his is. This falsehood is propagated by one supposed expert who has never owned one and has cheapened the reputation,value and demand of a great little/big liv-a-board cruiser in the US (Not in Europe where they are actually highly sought after). After 18 years of ownership and many through hulls installed I can positively state that my 1971 hull is solid glass that has had only 1 small osmosis bubble when I first got her never to return after repair
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Happy sailing, Capt. Rick

 

[SAILINGBUM1]

Definitely need more info on what was driving him crazy. Maybe he spills his beer when his hand hits it while stretching or it is in the way for a quick pee overboard. All valid worries.

 

[SAILINGBUM1]

Maybe I will advertize in Spain for the enthusiasts seeking a boat for crribean fun and the crossing.

 

[SAILINGBUM1]

OK / what I got was that they planted them right in the walkway by theasy hatch behind the cowling. simular to the main mast stays prblem is getting by them because th 15ft spit stay angle in tomuch requiring a duck and slide-by.
1)Easiest An improvement would be to move to change the split stay to t separate stays as most boats come standard with. You can get a 1to 2 fitting and use the same mast tang to give a higher angle. Just run your mail sheet haul line back to the chainplate first to see if that will make do
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2) least expensive. This will depend on the MM boom lenth The sloop is 11ft I think the ketch is smaller. "If" you can angle to the back of the cockpi cowling and not interfear with the mm boom swing a relitively easy and cheapest fix. The cowling is really the strongest part of this boat .. jus glass
reinforce the inside cowling to deck all the way around to the aft winch seat and than glass in a chainplate backing all the way across the inside aft of the cowling backwall and the deckglass. The further out you put the new chainplate (a approx 2x 26x 5/16 stainless or bronze strip) the more boom clearance you'll have. I think the boom is tong for this.

3) hardest if I has to be further back you can move them to the outside hull, Your aft cabin windows may present a problem if it goes to far back for the angle. You would have to cut the the rub rail guide and slide a 2x 20x 5/16 stainless or bronze strip behind it Reinforce the hull-sides. As I said earlier the deck to hull attachmen while be a small obstacle. It is top(hull) and bottomed (deck with aluminum reinforcement that is riveted together with the Aluminum rub rail guide/ connector a pain but not impossible.
4) of course you can always just move the present chainplate outboard through the deck and run separate stays as in 1) but if you misen also uses these chain plates you will need longer stays and new spreaders for it as well as risking leakage into the plywood core.
I would check to see if 1) works for satisfactory clearance with the main sail haul and go from therr or the obvious just attached it as low down on the misen as you can but as it is stepped to the deck ( as is the main) mishap could yank it free and bring the whole rig down when you need it most. a king top to top of masts or queen top main to 2/3 or so m would have less up pull. I knew some that kept the running back stays diconnected unless heavy seas were coming Check out a rigging book for ideas. Many small rigs do not have running back stays

That's all I got. Good luck
Capt Rick