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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Have 200' of hi test G3 chain. Been told for some of the places I want to go having 300' of chain may be necessary. Like catenary effect of chain and its strength. No issue with chain locker or trim ( in fact extra chain will improve trim). However, been told not wise to use two lengths connected due to issues with run over windlass and loss of strength at connection. Strongly wish to avoid expense of buying single run of 300'.
?what is best way to connect chain to chain?
? is there really a significant loss of strength?
 

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I would just add rode...200ft is fine all around the world...maybe if you are doing exclusive high latitude sailing then yeah

get some awesome rode and attach it and your fine...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Kind of want to add chain as we usually drag our butt a bit when fully prepped for voyaging. Also like the ideal of not having to switch back and froth on the captsan
 

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Closet Powerboater
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I think the 2 part chain link is about your only choice if you want to go over the windlass smoothly. Even then, it may not do so, as the joining link may be a different size than a BBB link or G4 or whatever you have as a link.

Chain link Connector


Defender rates the 3/8" version at a SWL of 2850 which is a couple hundred pounds higher than the SWL of the Acco 3/8" chain they carry.

I would say that if you go this route, put some JB weld on the OUTSIDE of the studs to help ensure it stays in place. I wouldn't put any on the inside as I would want the surfaces of the chain to mate as intended. It would certainly be easy enough to slap one of these on your chain and see if it goes over the windlass. If it does, I'd put some JB weld on the outside, inspect frequently, and replace at the first sign of anything amiss.

Now, back to your regularly scheduled conventional wisdom: Put a link in your chain and you're gunna die!!!

MedSailor
 

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I dont know of any attachment that would still go through your windlass without at least manually hopping the chain to the extended part...

fwiw
 

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or sell the 200 feet since its good quality stuff and go for continous 300...thats about the best you can do...

cruisers and refiters are always lloking for good chain
 

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bell ringer
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Med- Thanks for your reply ?Would I be better going with a stronger device such as this-

Large Image Popup On Samco Sales, Inc.
I have one of those. It is rarely out as I have 300' before getting to that point. As long as the connection is at a point where the chain is already way out I don't see any issue in just manually moving the connector past the gpsy. But you really should be able to run rope though your gpsy anyway and not use the capstan, but you still would probably have to manually feed the splice around the gpsy (which is why I went to a long chain)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Guess best is to save my pennies and trade in current chain. Appreciate the advice folks. Still saving toward water maker and that will come first.
 

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I used the chain connector on our previous CS to add 100' to our chain. When you put the two halves together you need to hammer the pins down like a rivet. You need a chunk of steel to use to pound on. Done properly it's never coming apart. The link went thru my windlass just like every other link.
Jim
 

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Have 200' of hi test G3 chain.
G30 is standard chain. BBB is calibrated windlass chain and the same strength as grade 30. Grade 40 or 43 is hi strength chain and fits on some windlass gypsys. There is no such thing as G3 chain. If it is short for grade 30 it is not high strength.
 

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G30 is standard chain. BBB is calibrated windlass chain and the same strength as grade 30. Grade 40 or 43 is hi strength chain and fits on some windlass gypsys. There is no such thing as G3 chain. If it is short for grade 30 it is not high strength.
According to the February 2014 issue of Practical Sailor (p.11), G3 is synonymous with standard G30 and BBB standard anchor chain. All have ultimate tensile strength of 300 megapascal and are more ductile than higher tensile chain. By whatever name it's called, this standard grade of chain is the one PS recommends for most sailors.

FWIW, there is an interesting analysis of the efficacy of various tensile grades of anchor chain in the PS issue for June 2014. :)
 

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Bristol 45.5 - AiniA
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Depends where you are going how often you will need more than 200', but in general not often. I would go with the hammer on link done carefully as suggested here and spend my extra money and worry on more important items.
 

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By whatever name it's called, this standard grade of chain is the one PS recommends for most sailors.
More and more sailors are either switching to G43 chain or choosing it in the first place. It keeps the weight down for equal or greater strength and allows the weight to be where it belongs - in the anchor.

My original point was that Outbound called his G3 chain hi test when it isn't if described correctly. High strength chain is embossed with "G43" every few links.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
My bad- didn't look at stamp on chain before posting. As said need the weight to help trim. Put in a generator ( least heavy I could find) behind engine and added tools/spares in work room and under after quarter berth. Will use the link and maybe a heavy line of 10-20' on rolling hitches above and below as failsafe . May work as secondary snubbers. Get Practical Sailor- its a good read.
 
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