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So butyl tape for deck hardware, tracks, chain plates, cleats, clutches etc.
What would you not use it for.

Hull, deck is 5200, you want to super glue effect right.
What about aluminum framed port lights?
Plastic frame less port lights?
 

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Stuff under the water line, through-hulls near the water line, and anything that may be exposed to significant amounts of fuel, like the diesel deck fill, should also not be bedded using Butyl, since butyl dissolves in petroleum products.
So what is the preferred sealant for through-hulls?
 

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Polyurethanes like Sika 291, 3M 4200 or a Polysulfide like Boat Life Life Calk..
Thanks MS

Since the boat stores all carry 4200 and do not carry butyl for small jobs what it the biggest downside to using 4200 for deck bedding in a pinch?
I know it cures so you have to get the part bolted down before it drys.
 
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Butyl does need to be in compression to be effective.

A good idea would be to form a glass riser where the chainplate emerges through the deck - it will avoid water pooling around the chainplate. You can put a plate on if you wish. The link below explains - scroll down a bit.

Maintenance Log for Syzygy
Without a plate added to the design of the picture above do you think it will hold well. Seems like the space around the chain plate filled with butyl will get embedded with dirt.
Also without the plate where is the compression coming from?
 

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You are right I didn't follow the link.:)
Glad I did this time. A lot of great pictures. Thanks!

What confused me was the comment that the plate could be added if he wished.
It looks like it is pretty much required if butyl is to work properly.

Do you agree or am I reading too much into it?
 

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Sounds good.
The plates on some boats I've seen were just stamped sheet metal. The ones in the picture looked like solid stainless.
Were they made with official machine shop tools, milling machine etc or do you have some way to make them with lower end tools?
 

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My plates are thicker as well. Any shop that works with stainless can cut them out for you. Stainless isn't that hard to drill but machining a slot is beyond basic tools.
That's what I thought.
Just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing some cool home-brew trick.
 

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Not unless you have a plasma cutter....:D
It has been a few decades since I've looked at that kind of equipment so I Googled it and found this:

Amazon.com: LTP5000D 50A Air Inverter Pilot Arc Plasma Cutter Dual Voltage 110/220VAC 1/2" clean Cut: Power & Hand Tools

It's looking like a plasma cutter is actually affordable for a home shop.

Not sure it would be the right tool to cut an accurate slot.
Probably a milling machine would be better.

Sure is need little box for 500 bucks though
 
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