If they are wet TRY and let them dry out over a winter or more then measure them with a Moisture meter. Epoxy, penetrating epoxy and all the other snake oils out there do NOTHING to stick to wet balsa. You are better off to leave it damp and re-bed properly than to try and pot the hole with the balsa wet.A question on the exisitng holes:
Water has been coming through the holes (hence to need to re-bed). What is the prefered method of preping the holes?
The filling with un-thickened then thickened is to allow some fine penetration and a better bond to the surrounding balsa rather than just dumping in thickened epoxy. Think of it as a bonding primer. You then thicken it and have a good base for the thickened epoxy to bond to. Dentists do a similar thing with the polymer fillings. They first bore out the tooth then apply an unthickend priming resin which penetrates into all the small pores. The thickened polymer is then added over the top of the primer/penetrating resin and the filling is then complete after some finishing.I've seen other threads about wetting them down with epoxy, then removing and filling with thickened expoxy and re-drilling. Others have suggested brilling them out wider first.
Wishful thinking that in theory sounds good. Acetone poured in between a deck only serves to melt and damage the bond between the balsa and deck skin. Acetone becomes non-fast evaporating between deck skins and actually can become resin eating & softenting. Removing water takes either excavation or many, many, many holes drilled and months of drying. Do the acetone trick on some foam cores and your really screwed.Others mention that acetone will absorb water.
Bed it properly, beveling the holes etc., to stop any more water ingress, and go sailing...What do y'all think? (The deck around the track seems sound, so ripping out and replacing all the balsa is not under consideration)
Personally, I really dislike the over-sized hole method as it breaks the continuity of the top, bottom or both skins. A captured plug is and will be a stronger deck and an over-sized hole. The over-sized hole method to me is a shortcut. I have seen them fail.All three?
1. Drill out the holes (how larges?)
If it makes you feel good you can try it but you may find you have created more trouble than good.2. Dry with Acetone?
If the deck is wet just re-bed and stop any further ingress. Potting wet balsa is an exercise "feelings" mostly. If it makes you feel good do it. The bond just will not be there and you will have little epoxy towers between the deck skins that are not adhered. You will see this when you finally have to excavate it.3. Fill with epoxy, then clear; Then re-fill with thinkened epoxy and re-drill?
Got my rolls of tape, (Thanks Maine) and put them to use this weekend. I removed the fore hatch, the week before the big rains and got back to the boat to put the new hatch in...
The tape is a tad sticky, easy to work with, and I am hoping will work quite well. As my hatch was not 100% flat to the fore peak, two rear corners of the hatch about 1/8" off the deck and around the bends for almost 2"...so I cut a 1" length and attached, that followed by a 2.5" piece, a 4" piece and so on until I built up (or down - depending on how you look at it..) the wedge needed. Then I laid the two overlapping strips on the screw line and had the admiral help me gently lay the new hatch in place.
I used the end of a papermate ink pen to cut screw holes, and use small drill bits as allignment pins to drop the new hatch on. Removed the first drill bit, and replaced with a screw, as with the other 4. The started the remaining screws. Went below to make sure that all was well. So far so good.
New hatch is in place, warming up nicely, and I will take a final turn on the screws later this afternoon.
Lessons learned...using the suggested hardware was best - called for flathead #8 screws, PO used #10 pan head sheet metal screws which stuck up in to the seal area.....MORE tape is better than less tape...I did have one small gap...that I was able to pull/stretch the butyl tape and slide it in as I set the hatch - would have been better to build up the corners more the first go round, as once placed the tape is quite sticky..
Will see how well it has sealed later in the season when the rains come again.
All the best.
Sabre did too. It is hard to find because even the glazing industry has moved towards adhesive sealants. Butyl is more labor intensive to do it right, hence the move buy builders away from it. The rolls also collect factory dust if not kept clean something they don't have to worry about with gun injected goop..I'm sure other builders have used butyl as well.
MS - can you give us a source for the butyl you are using? I purchased a roll from an online RV dealer about a year ago and after lots of rebedding projects I'm almost out and about to place another order.It took me months to find the "right stuff" that the builders used to use because the glazing and RV industries are now using a slightly different material, still butyl but not the same consistency...
Well crap!It took me months to find the "right stuff" that the builders used to use because the glazing and RV industries are now using a slightly different material, still butyl but not the same consistency...
You can get it directly from MS!MS - can you give us a source for the butyl you are using? I purchased a roll from an online RV dealer about a year ago and after lots of rebedding projects I'm almost out and about to place another order.
This may explain why he has been so quiet lately...1-27-2011
I will be away on business from Jan 28th through about April 25th. During that time I will not be able to ship butyl tape.
I will resume shipping the butyl when I get back. The tape I sell is not readily available but there are some products out there that can work OK. If you need it fast you might need to buy another type of butyl tape from another an on-line source. As always use gray and not black!!
What ever you do, do NOT get the black butyl rubber tape... you will regret it... Get the grey or white stuff.