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1979 C&C 30 Mk I - 2QM15
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well... my offer has been accepted (79 C&C 30) and I'm just waiting for the surveyor to finish up the deal without any major findings... So be prepared to get bombarded with even more new-boat-owner questions... :confused:

So my first step is going to be to try and make her bullet proof from the toerail to the tip of the keel. The following is my currently planned to do list. Is there anything else I should be considering that will be difficult or impossible once it's in the water?

1. Inspect all the thru hull fittings & valves and replace any that aren't absolutely 100%
2. Replace old stuffing box packing with drip-less packing
3. Replace rudder post packing
4. Torque Keel bolts to spec and then grind & fill the "C&C smile"
5. Touch up existing bottom paint, which was done just last year
6. Peel off the current name, compound, wax, and buff from the scumline to the toerail

* - I'm thinking about calling her "Titan Uranus" :p :p :p
 

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Telstar 28
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Might want to inspect the cutless bearing and the rudder stock, replacing them if necessary. :) Also, inspect and if necessary replace all the zincs.
 

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hose it down hard and see where it leaks! And get her out sailing -- enjoy your new treasure.
 

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You wont know for sure about item #1 until the boat goes in the water. Do a very careful inspection before you haul out next time. Then you will know which ones to work on when you are out.
 

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old guy :)
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naming your yacht

Be careful what you name her. You want to think what it will sound like when you are communicating with the Coast Guard and with Homeland Security. Especially in an emergency situation.

Rik
 

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If you want the boat to be bullet-proof, immediately sell her again and buy a new one. Still won't be trouble free but at least someone else gets to pay for the repairs for a while.

Face it, when you buy a used boat you're buying one that someone else no longer wants. Mostly that is because they're tired of fixing stuff.

Sorry to be a bit negative but that is the reality of used boats and the on-going maintenance is the consequence of the money you save by buying used.
 

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1979 C&C 30 Mk I - 2QM15
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172 Posts
Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
If you want the boat to be bullet-proof, immediately sell her again and buy a new one. Still won't be trouble free but at least someone else gets to pay for the repairs for a while.

Face it, when you buy a used boat you're buying one that someone else no longer wants. Mostly that is because they're tired of fixing stuff.

Sorry to be a bit negative but that is the reality of used boats and the on-going maintenance is the consequence of the money you save by buying used.
Gee... If boat ownership is so bleak and miserable, maybe I should just forget buying a boat, tie an anchor around my neck, and just dive off the dock now before the pain begins... :eek:

Look... I know it's not going to be perfect, I know it's an ongoing project to keep a boat in working order, and even more so when it's a used boat. But don't suck all the wind out of my sails already.

I just want to make an attempt to clear up the common locations where boats leak. I don't want the bilge pump running all summer for something I could have easily fixed while it was still on jack stands. And everything above the waterline I can start addressing on my evenings and weekends after I get it home since it'll just be floating 50' behind my back door.
 

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cap'n chronic
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235 Posts
Run the boat in gear to see if there is any vibration.
Check the shaft at the stuffing box and at the cutlass bearing for gouges.
Also check the prop strut for any play.
Wish I did that when I bought my boat.
congrats and good luck.
 

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1979 C&C 30 Mk I - 2QM15
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172 Posts
Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
You wont know for sure about item #1 until the boat goes in the water. Do a very careful inspection before you haul out next time. Then you will know which ones to work on when you are out.

Don't assume that I know what I'm doing... :p

So, from what I've read, repacking the stuffing box is a fairly simple task. Getting to it sounds like it's typically more of a challenge than the actual repacking process. But is there any reason why you "wouldn't" do that BEFORE you put it back in the water?

If I find out the stuffing box needs repacked AFTER I put it into the water, doesn't that turn into a $400 haul out just to get to the stuffing box again?
 

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Vikingsailor
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200 Posts
Congrats!

One thing I found on our new (last fall) boat that was missed by the survey was some crevice corrosion on a couple keel bolts under the nuts.

The surveyor tapped on each bolt, listening for dead sounds, and they did sound fine. But, he did not remove the nuts...not sure if that's s.o.p.

The bilge had water in it, and I suspect had for quite a while. That apparently didn't raise a flag with him. I think he did a fine job...but...

Since then, I took each nut off (one at a time), and the 3 most aft had some cc. I will need to take steps...but they are still strong now. I cleaned the bilge, bolts & nuts and coated them with Lanacote. The sealant around the bolts is still fine (keel not leaking)...so...I have re-torqued the nuts. I'll need to do the fairly common keel bolt fix sometime soon, though.

So, if the bilge has water in it...and the surveyor doesn't mention it...you might want to ask about cc on the bolts.
 

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Vikingsailor
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Don't assume that I know what I'm doing... :p

So, from what I've read, repacking the stuffing box is a fairly simple task. Getting to it sounds like it's typically more of a challenge than the actual repacking process. But is there any reason why you "wouldn't" do that BEFORE you put it back in the water?

If I find out the stuffing box needs repacked AFTER I put it into the water, doesn't that turn into a $400 haul out just to get to the stuffing box again?
Do it before...that way you'll KNOW when it was done, and that it was done correctly. I just completed replacing the packing on my boat. No idea when it was last done...though the old packing looked fine to me...so maybe not long ago.

Still, I wanted to know it was done...
 

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One school of thought is to have the yard to repairs to thru-hulls, seacocks, and stuffing boxes. That way if have have any leaks the yard gets to pay for the haul back out to correct the problems.
 

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If you want the boat to be bullet-proof, immediately sell her again and buy a new one. Still won't be trouble free but at least someone else gets to pay for the repairs for a while.

Face it, when you buy a used boat you're buying one that someone else no longer wants. Mostly that is because they're tired of fixing stuff.

Sorry to be a bit negative but that is the reality of used boats and the on-going maintenance is the consequence of the money you save by buying used.
__________________

or on another hand, buy an F-16 or a pocket watch.. that should be well maintained.. and while you're at it move to another planet. like saturn, that we haven't messed up with our smoke..


I love messing with the boat as much as I like sailing her, dunno if I have the cajones to replace all the wiring this summer, but i'll replave the panel and trim the ends of the wires :)
 

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Gee... If boat ownership is so bleak and miserable, maybe I should just forget buying a boat, tie an anchor around my neck, and just dive off the dock now before the pain begins... :eek:

Look... I know it's not going to be perfect, I know it's an ongoing project to keep a boat in working order, and even more so when it's a used boat. But don't suck all the wind out of my sails already.

I just want to make an attempt to clear up the common locations where boats leak. I don't want the bilge pump running all summer for something I could have easily fixed while it was still on jack stands. And everything above the waterline I can start addressing on my evenings and weekends after I get it home since it'll just be floating 50' behind my back door.
There are a multiple places that add water to the bilge. In short - anything that bolts / has a hole through the hull. Chain plates are the most common, water, diesel and sewage plates / fill / discharge areas a close second... Thru-hulls - the mast ( tons there if you have a keel stepped one (and the biggest disadvantage in that scenario))..

It takes time to discover all of these as it is all oriented around temp, conditions and willingness to locate the source. Part of the joys of boat ownership and welcome to the club :) I will tell you - most of the spots are obvious if you let the signs tell you. If you have a splash of silicone around something - it will leak. If there is a mess of sealant around a thru fixture topside - it leaks.. Part of knowing your boat - is the tearing it down and building it up again and you'll be thankful for that knowledge in more ways than one...

Just no simple answer... so please do not take offense to the replies.
 
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