[deniseO30]

fuses are ANL .. what is the real story on them. Blue Sea. products I love but ANL fuses are so cheap for like car stero wiring for amplifiers that draw big amps and require large fuses like we need on our boats.
Can I assume a 100 amp anl fuse for $4 is the same as a Blue sea fuse
ANL Fuse 100 Amp Genuinedealz.com $13 for one
or
Amazon.com: Absolute ANL100-2, 2 Pack ANL Fuses 100 Amp Gold Plated: Car [email protected]@[email protected]@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/[email protected]@[email protected]@51MtALo8pIL 2 for $4!

Not to mention the terminal blocks for the same are also cheap. I do .of course realize the "marine"type have stainless bolts on the blocks.

 

[Maine Sail]

fuses are ANL .. what is the real story on them. Blue Sea. products I love but ANL fuses are so cheap for like car stero wiring for amplifiers that draw big amps and require large fuses like we need on our boats.
Can I assume a 100 amp anl fuse for $4 is the same as a Blue sea fuse
ANL Fuse 100 Amp Genuinedealz.com $13 for one
or
Amazon.com: Absolute ANL100-2, 2 Pack ANL Fuses 100 Amp Gold Plated: Car Electronics 2 for $4!

The real story is that crap is NOT a true ANL, does NOT have the same trip delay and is NOT ignition protected. They are pure and utter Chinese JUNK.

I tested about 30 of them perhaps a year or two ago and roughly 4 in 10 failed in an UNSAFE manner.

There is only one ANL to buy for marine use and they are the one Blue Sea has made for them and ignition protection rated.... I have never had one fail in an unsafe manner and I have done extensive testing of ANL, MRBF and CLass T, for Lithium batteries, for an ABYC committee I am on...

That residue is the windows literally blown out of the Amazon/el-cheapo car stereo fuses. There is a reason this crap does not say "Ignition Protected" on it....

Yes proper fusing, MRBF, Class T or true ANL's are not inexpensive. ANL look-a-likes can be cheap but you get what you pay for in all aspects of performance.

That said any fuse is likely safer than no fuse at all. I'd still strongly urge the Blue Sea IP rated ANL's. They fuse holder is also head and shoulders above other brands too.....

 

[deniseO30]

thanks MS! I was thinking that you had mentioned this some time back
I do like Blue Sea's stuff.

 

[btrayfors]

As usual, MaineSail has the real poop!

Denise...those Blue Sea fuseholders are not stainless steel....they're nickel-plated copper.

Stainless is a poor conductor of electricity, and one should be very careful to use e.g., stainless washers and nuts only for compression, not for current conducting (i.e., OK to use a s/s nut or washer to compress a lug onto a conductor, but NOT to use between the lug and the conductor).

Bill

 

[deniseO30]

Thanks! I just placed my first order from Genuine dealz Going ANL real soon! LOL

 

[deniseO30]

Doing the ACR soon!

Finally after close to 3 years ,I finally have all the parts and pieces to install the Blue sea ACR, WITH the proper battery switch, fusing and wiring!

Have all new batteries too! 2-6v for house, 1-12v for starting I may.. If I keep the boat... add 2 move 6v for a large house bank. but don't think I'll need it.

No I don't have an outboard. the diesel wiring dia. is not really differen't unless the starter and alt are wired independent ( I think I understand!)

Just found this.. which is more representative of what needs to be done. IF the Alt and Start are separate which I don't think they are.

Or this... LOL all the same yet somewhat different

 

[mitiempo]

Denise

You should wire the alternator output to the bank of 6 volt batteries, not the starter battery.

 

[miatapaul]

Re: Doing the ACR soon!

Finally after close to 3 years ,I finally have all the parts and pieces to install the Blue sea ACR, WITH the proper battery switch, fusing and wiring!

Have all new batteries too! 2-6v for house, 1-12v for starting I may.. If I keep the boat... add 2 move 6v for a large house bank. but don't think I'll need it.

No I don't have an outboard. the diesel wiring dia. is not really differen't unless the starter and alt are wired independent ( I think I understand!)

Just found this.. which is more representative of what needs to be done. IF the Alt and Start are separate which I don't think they are.

Or this... LOL all the same yet somewhat different

Yes, this is what I am talking about. Projects! I love your projects as they turn out so nice, especially if they involve wood, perhaps a nice marquetry wood inlay fuse panel, with an inlaid diagram of your boat with led's showing what is on and off? That would look nice above your custom chart table.

OK perhaps that is too much, just glad to see that your not talking about selling now!

 

[deniseO30]

Oh Geeze Oh Geeze!

Got started today! omg what a F-----G mess!
Mounted the ACR and it's fuse legs. The 2 batts showing are the house bank, the starter battery is more aft. the empty box from when I had 2 on the start bank will stay empty for now.

Pulling things apart (yes all hot wires are off the batteries) MaineSail, Lookie Look what found!

It's not melted, but it is old and one side is rubbed through. I will be getting a terminal strip for that. The alternator and starter are separate #4 wire and the starter wire does go to the key panel. ( as noted last year when we replaced the key start switch.)

Question.. what do I "feed" the engine panel with and where from? Should be fused too no? Thinking #10 wire.

The panel;

removed the old switch, new one fits perfect, jiust needs longer machine screws to hold it in place.

 

[deniseO30]

Looks like this is going to work like shown and the only thing really changed would be taking Alt line directly to the house bank, and I'm not even sure I need to do that, since the ACR will always make sure the charging is sent to the bank needing it. Getting rid of the "trailer" connector won't be easy.

 

[mitiempo]

Looks like this is going to work like shown and the only thing really changed would be taking Alt line directly to the house bank, and I'm not even sure I need to do that, since the ACR will always make sure the charging is sent to the bank needing it.

Denise
The alt output should go direct to the house bank.

Where does the alt output go now? I am guessing the main switch via the starter. If that is true leaving it there will not gain you one advantage of the ACR - the elimination of damage if the switch is mistakenly turned off. Also it is better to route the charge to the house bank as it is the larger bank. This is Blue Seas recommendation.

 

[SVAuspicious]

The wire nuts behind the key panel are not a good idea.

 

[mitiempo]

The wire nuts behind the key panel are not a good idea.

Very good point - they don't belong on a boat.

 

[deniseO30]

The wire nuts behind the key panel are not a good idea.

If that was the only thing you saw that's bad.. better look closer! LOL

the "wire nuts" are on the wires that connect the panel bulbs. The whole damn thing is a rats nest! Per MaineSail that ampmeter and #4 cable won't be necessary anymore either.
Universal Diesel Wiring Harness Upgrade Photo Gallery by Compass Marine at pbase.com

Yes, the alt will be connected to the housebank, and it was on the old switch.

 

[deniseO30]

Gawd.. If I said it before.. I'll say it again WHAT A F------G Mess! LOL anyways... the actual work of pulling the old wires off the alt, starter, and engine panel was kind of easy.. re-routing from the starter and Alt to the start bank,new panel switch is coming along. Not much to see here

Up is the starter going to the switch. Down is the Alt to the house bank.

Far as I know.. the engine panel is dead now... Do we run a new #10 or #8 wire from the house panel to the engine panel?

For MaineSail; the trailer plug under the alt didn't melt because someone already re-routed the glow plug wire.

 

[mitiempo]

Do we run a new #10 or #8 wire from the house panel to the engine panel?

No, run it from the start battery load side of the new main switch.

 

[deniseO30]

Moving right along!
Have the fuse cube terminals on the battery banks. All the OEM battery wires are not marine tinned cable.

Looks to be 3 cables for the house bank Alt, switch to panel, and ACR. I'm guessing the loads between banks when the ACR in operation are not that high. But I have 100amp ANLs on them.

This won't look "right" as it's still being worked on but it's turning out to be NOT that difficult. Rewiring a 3 phase 480 volt root top ac unit IS much more difficult LOL

Thinking/wondering if I really need bus bars for all the connections to the batteries.

The inverter (has a circuit breaker of it's own,) was also connected to the panel switch. I'm not in the habit of having more then one fuse or breaker on a line, but this line will go back to house bank that has a cube fuse on the terminal.

Tomorrow or Tuesday It will be time to tackle the engine panel and dope out the glow plug circuit and solenoid for the starter. 20amps? # 10

 

[deniseO30]

need to study this I guess. I have the original on the boat. this if from Marine diesel direct

 

[deniseO30]

Re: Doing the ACR soon!

Yes, this is what I am talking about. Projects! I love your projects as they turn out so nice, especially if they involve wood, perhaps a nice marquetry wood inlay fuse panel, with an inlaid diagram of your boat with led's showing what is on and off? That would look nice above your custom chart table.

OK perhaps that is too much, just glad to see that your not talking about selling now!

Paul Blue Sea sells the little itty bitty leds that can be installed next to any device like a breaker in the panel. the breaker panel on my boat is near pristine I guess because it's above the engine compartment and even though there is plywood there the engine heat must have kept it pretty dry over the years.

 

[guyfromiowa]

On page 2 of this PDF from Blue Sea:
"* Because the SI-ACR is Dual Sensing, terminals A and B are interchangeable.
ACR function will not be affected by reversal of the starting and house batteries versus
the diagram."

http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/instructions/990170140.pdf

There seems to be confusion about whether you should connect the output of the alternator to the "start" battery or the "house battery". Either way will work. If you connect to the "start" battery the alternator will charge the "start" battery to a fully charged state AND THEN charge the "house battery". Connecting the alternator output to the "house battery" will charge the "house battery" to a fully charged state AND THEN charge the "start" battery. Your choice. Both ways work. Myself, I charge the "start" battery first.

Guy