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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I forgot to post on this headliner replacement. Was on a Beneteau first 305. I did it a few years back but just now getting to adding it here.

The 80's Bene's used a foam backed vinyl for the liner and in short order the foam would separate from the vinyl and start sagging.




I used lightweight hull liner from Sailrite and 3M 8090 super trim adhesive. Basically I removed all of the existing vinyl liner and used those parts as templates. I had a good pair of 9 inch scissors and a 25x25 tarp. One by one I would make the piece from the existing one and glue them up. In order to glue you have to spray the trim adhesive on both the material and the surface it is going to be put onto. You let the trim adhesive sit for about 2-5 minutes then you can install the piece. The whole boat took about 15 hours in total. One of the nice characteristics of the sail-rite hull blanket is that it has very low memory meaning that it does not want to spring back to flat so once you glue it in place it is content to stay there
HullBlanket Headliner Hull Liner Carpet Type - Shape Conforming


This was the end result. After 5 years the owner reports that the liner is still in fantastic shape and looks as good as it did when I installed it.

 

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I've never used that adhesive. Is it like contact cement ... don't get it right first time and you're screwed or can you slide it around a bit after contact ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
It looks good. We need to replace our vinyl head liner. It is stained and drooping in a lot of places, and hides access to the through-deck fittings. Do you remember how many yards you bought?
Not off the top of my head. I have done 3 of the jobs though. best way to do it is measure your areas and then add 10%.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
I've never used that adhesive. Is it like contact cement ... don't get it right first time and you're screwed or can you slide it around a bit after contact ?
You do have some working time, maybe about 10 minutes before it starts to become compromised. repositioning is doable. The glue sprays out like a spider web and stays on, whatever it hits it sticks too. Wear a well fit respirator or you will get yourself very sick from fumes. Also get a good laminate roller.
 

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Not off the top of my head. I have done 3 of the jobs though. best way to do it is measure your areas and then add 10%.
That stuff is reasonably priced but still expensive when you literally need a boatload of it.

If I was doing it, I'd remove the drooping stuff and lay it out on a 72" wide tarp - like laying out patterns on veneered plywood. Once I had them laid out to use the material most efficiently I'd know how much to order (always +10% scrap factor)

By the way, great info and nice job. :cool:

There was an article recently in the British mag "Practical Boat Owner" about a couple re-doing their vinyl covered foam - WAY more work than this method.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
That is basically what I did but just measured in place with a regular measuring tape and a tailors measuring tape. Came out pretty well spot on though I factored 20% overage for my first one. You will use twice as much glue as you think.
 

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Headlining Replacement

That is how I did the liners in my Jeanneau with the same issue. THere is a link to the head area too. Took me a bit longer. but I replaced a lot of the flat area's with vinyl cover plywood. That took a bit of shaping and cutting.

Marty
thanks for that...I want to do the plywood covered vynil panels for my deck undersides...the rest will be painted to access the bunch of deck hardware easily

appreciate it:)
 

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Christian,

The plywood part works, "IF" and "where" you have a filler in the deck, ie balsa, foam etc. Otherwise the fiberglass is too thin to put screws in.

I just used as I think the article stated some door panel plywood I got at home depot.

Marty
 

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You can use Kydex instead of plywood, Kydex is heat moldable plastic, with a heatgun you can form the plastic and then cover it with padding and vinyl, industrial grad velcro will hold it in place.
 
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awesome guys...

have been away from the boat too long...sorry for the mild hijack...awesome info and help guys

keep it up

christian
 

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Christian,

The plywood part works, "IF" and "where" you have a filler in the deck, ie balsa, foam etc. Otherwise the fiberglass is too thin to put screws in.

I just used as I think the article stated some door panel plywood I got at home depot.

Marty
You could epoxy on battens of wood to place screws into, they can also help level an uneven surface using shims.
 
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