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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
:rolleyes: any rules for gallons per foot on a sailboat?
any brands u lads prefer

say a 25' simple coastal sail vessel, sleeps 2 or 3

how often do u re-coat
this vessel seems in great shape, a bit faded on the lower hull however

types of sandpaper, grit # ?
hand sanding? if it is not in tough shape...

any other tips much appreciated
 

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A gallon will do her 2 or 3 times at least. I got a gallon at west marine for SIX dollars. So keep your eyes open! I just scrubbed with a wire brush, not sure if that is "correct". Adhesion has been crappy.
 

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Just did mine this spring (26 footer). One gallon was good for two coats.

Surface prep was with 80 grit on a hand held 5" random orbital sander.

How often depends on the type of anti-fouling paint you use and the water conditions where she is sailed/stored.

I used a hard multi-year paint for trailerable boats. This applied over a two-part epoxy barrier coat.

All this assumes the hull does not have any blister problems.
 

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Careful about the sanding. The dust is highly toxic and a pollutant. You should wear protective clothing and a mask and use a vacuum recovery on the sander. I have always wet sanded (to prevent dust) and allowed the water to collect (and dry) in a plastic sheet under the keel. Then I throw the sheet away. New regulations covering N.J. marinas may prevent this, however.

You should get two coats out of a gallon on your boat.
 

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Ablative for trailerables

Just did mine this spring (26 footer). One gallon was good for two coats.

Surface prep was with 80 grit on a hand held 5" random orbital sander.

How often depends on the type of anti-fouling paint you use and the water conditions where she is sailed/stored.

I used a hard multi-year paint for trailerable boats. This applied over a two-part epoxy barrier coat.

All this assumes the hull does not have any blister problems.
I also just did my 26 footer last spring (May). Four coats from two gallons of epoxy barrier then the Antifouling. I got two complete coats from a gallon of CSC Ablative and a third partial around the water line , bow and stern. There wasn't quite enough for a third full coat so I did the critical areas. For Trailerables it was recommended that I use an ablative because it stops working out of the water then starts again when put back in the water whereas the hard paint stops working altogether if kept out of the water for any length of time.
 

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Just completed a bottom job on a 32' in tiusville,fl. completely removed all bottom paint to the jelcoat. Repaired all/any damaged spots,removed 2 through hull transducers( to be replaced w/ shoot-thru-hull type).4 epoxy barrier coats and 3 coats of ablative Pettit unepoxy I pd $76 a gallon used 2 gallons rolled and brushed where necesary. The prep , I believe is the key. I finish sanded w/80 grit w/ an air power orbital. about 40 disks and 30 hrs.
THe last bottom job lasted 2-3 years but I was moving for the first 2 or so. I find if I anchor in filthy water (halifax river for example) I get more growth.
I don't believe the higher priced ablative paints offer much more for the extra money. and if your scraping on a regular basis your probably scraping off most of the bottom paint (ablative) anyway.
If my boat was trailerable I'd probably just take it to a carwash occasionally and use the cheapest paint I could buy.
 

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When i used micron Fiberglass Bottomkote® with Irgarol a gallon scrubbed off in one season and it was like a snow storm every cleaning and the boat was pretty much back to barrier coat when hauled


This Season i used Micron Extra with Biolux and its much harder and while you see a bit in the water during cleaning it has held up far better
 
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