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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all-

Any suggestions for bottom paint for a boat that is going to live in cold, clean, Montana lake water for about 4 months out of the year? Don't know that it's going to become "fouled"...we hardly even have plants in the lake, let alone algae. And no barnacles. ;)

Do I need to get the expensive stuff of is there a more affordable alternative?
 

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One of None
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I've been using WM's brand ablative for years. no problems. all fresh water boats get slime
 

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no longer reading SailNet
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When I kept a boat on Lake Union in Seattle year round we used a basic hard paint. This is easier to clean when the boat is out of the water, legal to clean in the water (ablative paints aren't legal to clean in the water in WA) and extreme anti-fouling paint wasn't necessary in this lake. It works well, I still see the boat once in a while and the bottom is clean.

I think the specific paint was Seahawk Sharkskin, but I'd just use whatever is a good price.
 

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Broad Reachin'
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Many of us in the Great Lakes (cold freshwater) use a thin, slick, low-friction copper based product like Interlux VC17m, Pettit SR-21, or West Marine FW-21. It's easy to apply and doesn't require a ton of prep or sanding.
 

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Corsair 24
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cheap hard paint, an outdoor epoxy(white) works great as you can see growth easier...

we did this with our budget j24 fleet down here
 

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Barquito
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Maybe if you sail often, and clean the bottom once or twice, you could get away with not adding more paint for years at a time.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
It's easy to apply and doesn't require a ton of prep or sanding.
Will it go over existing paint or do I need to go down to gel coat?

Say...you've owned an Irwin 28...I may need to pick your brain at some point. Your review was very helpful and actually helped ease some of my concerns about buying a lesser-known boat. Can't wait to get ours on the water...hopefully next summer!
 

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Broad Reachin'
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Will it go over existing paint or do I need to go down to gel coat?
Here's what Interlux says about using VC over existing antifouling paint:
Removal is best but if this is not possible, start sanding with 80 grade (grit)
paper and progressively sand with finer grades until the final sanding with 320 grade (grit). Remove sanding residue.

Say...you've owned an Irwin 28...I may need to pick your brain at some point. Your review was very helpful and actually helped ease some of my concerns about buying a lesser-known boat. Can't wait to get ours on the water...hopefully next summer!
Congrats! I'm sure she'll serve you well. And yes, definitely feel free to contact me if you want to chat about the I28.
 

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Freedom isn't free
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VC17m over fresh barrier coat is your best bet. Great stuff, and it's a paint now, splash in 20 minutes kind of paint.

Best though if it dries, to burnish it with steel wool before it hits water. I do mine every year or every other year, and it rarely gets a trace of growth... same deal cold(er) fresh water only in for 5-6 months.
 

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I don't discuss my member
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Hard paints cannot withstand prolonged periods exposed to air. Unless you want to repaint annually, you need to use an ablative. Or as others have suggested, a thin-film vinyl paint like VC17.
 
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