SailNet Community banner

21 - 34 of 34 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
21,792 Posts
That'll be a big job Minne, some of the seacocks on the Beneteau built boats are tough to get to. I would bring rum and leave my sawza and sledge hammer at home. Good luck.
That is true, plus I have over 2 dozen of them!

I find you just have to take the time to disassemble everything around to gain better access. Pulling out a salon seat is way more complicated that one might think, involving multiple interlocking parts. Otherwise, you spend twice as much time trying to troubleshoot the lousy access. I haven't done thru-hulls yet, but the same principal goes for tankage, pumps, etc, which are often buried deep.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
165 Posts
It's fairly easy to knockoff the skin fitting from the outside when the boat is on the hard, I use a 4.5" angle grinder to remove the mushroom, it's quick and easy provided you're not removing flush fittings. For mounting pads I use 1/2" G10 pre drilled for the through hull and the seacock already bolted to to it, G10 taps well. It's easy to insert the through hull and spin the new seacock onto it then bed it in an epoxy slurry. As long as the through hull is flush to the hull the slurry will fill any misalignment. After it cures I remove the bolts holding the seacock on, spin the seacock off, bed the seacock in a polysulfide, spin it back on and bolt it to the G10. Done...

Most of this is from Mainesail, he's great!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21,792 Posts
Don't worry about the hard to get at ones until you need to.
The trick is know when "need to" arrives. I exercise all my thru-hulls regularly (with two exceptions). Last winter, I pulled one off completely, because I thought it was leaking. It turns out the water collected near it, was coming from elsewhere. Nevertheless, I cleaned all the parts in a diluted vinegar solution. It had some corrosion, but just on the surface. I did not think any wall thickness had been compromised, nor did I notice any indication of de-zincification. I put it all back together and it's been fine.

The problem is, I have no idea how all 27 look. Some do appear to have more surface corrosion than others. I do not like the mismatched threads at all. I used thread sealer on the one that I reinstalled, which acted as a lube, and allowed me to grab maybe one more thread.

For all I know, my thru-hulls and valves will last another decade. They are pushing 12 years old now and it's just making me itchy.
 

·
Dirt Free
Joined
·
2,654 Posts
The trick is know when "need to" arrives.

It had some corrosion, but just on the surface.

Some do appear to have more surface corrosion than others.

I do not like the mismatched threads at all.

For all I know, my thru-hulls and valves will last another decade.
:eek it has arrived !
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,077 Posts
The problem for most of the ball valves on boats is the HANDLES that you use to open and close them... almost all are crappy metal and corrode eve of the ball valve is OK. Why don't they make SS or bronze or delrin or no corrosive handle???

They do... but matching them is a bummer!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,608 Posts
I had no idea my feeble tonguein cheek glib attempt at subtle humour would be taken seriously. If you haven't got at least a visual on thruhulls it's not likely the tapered plugs on a lanyard nearby concept will help when the itch develops a rash. If stuff is in the way how about a big hole saw in the locker and clips to secure the cutout or make a new panel if you have to move the hole. Torquing the last thread onto mis matched puts a lot of sheer on the thread roots and causes an itch too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,608 Posts
That floppy handle can be replaced with a piece of SS strap, say 1x3/16 slot drilled and filed to fit. Quash a piece of hose in a vice and drive them together for a professional look. or bolt on an extender shaft handle for remoter operation if the angles cooperate
 

·
Dirt Free
Joined
·
2,654 Posts
That floppy handle can be replaced with a piece of SS strap, say 1x3/16 slot drilled and filed to fit. Quash a piece of hose in a vice and drive them together for a professional look. or bolt on an extender shaft handle for remoter operation if the angles cooperate
Or just buy the right product in the first place.
Never seen a bronze handle break.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,292 Posts
Glad some of you with more recent Jeanneau's are figuring this BIG issue out.
If you're like Minne, in fresh water, not as big a deal. BUT if in salt water in a HOT marina or your ground etc is not that good. You will have issues with the chrome plated brass fittings that came std from Jeanneau.
There have been multiple posts at the jeanneau-owners forum site on this issue.
I've bought all new thru hulls for my 85. These appear to be a normal bronze. I'm going with flush Marlon thru hulls and valves.

Marty
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,292 Posts
Me? We're in salt water.
Hmmmm, thought you were in great lakes......ooops......:crying:frown

Maybe you have gotten a few more years if you have to pull in the winter vs being in water all year.......

Marty
 
21 - 34 of 34 Posts
Top